Confused

The Help most definitely does include Evo 4 to 8 pinouts, as these share a single ECU product.

There should be nothing different to what you had working previously, so long as you've configured the ECU itself correctly display and use Lambda 1. Unless you've done something weird and you're sending RealDash only the Analogue 4 value rather than the Lambda 1 parameter. You'll need to share substantially more information and re-word your question to fully explain what you're trying to do and what problems you have.

The ECU takes the CAN Lambda details and uses it within the ECU, and the existing Lambda channel for RealDash is retained. RealDash doesn't accept the messages directly from the CAN Lambda module.

How have you provided power to the CAN Lambda module? Have you tried installing the 22uF capacitor as suggested in the Alternative wiring diagram. A 16 error is often power supply issue.

@Adamw I too couldn't find anything else in the G4 help about maximum frequency input other than here for the turbo speed.

So, you've had the whole wiring loom disconnected and handled, and now you have poor running issues? I'd be going back over every single connector, and do a continuity test on every single wire in the loom - I bet you'll find a pin or two in a plug somewhere that haven't reseated correctly during reinstallation.

Please upload a copy of your ECU configuration, and a log, generated from the PC with EVERY parameter added, which covers this. All we have currently from you is two very short videos which, yes, appear to show the symptoms of an issue, but no way of knowing what might be the cause of that issue.

I've just noticed you're in the G4 section, what is the frequency of these signals - it could be that you're over the maximum input frequency if the CPU is getting busy?

I believe that all Digital Inputs on G4X (and I assume G5) are capable of high speed input (10,000 Hz range) so this is probably why it doesn't specifically state it in the manual any more, like it did for G4+ and before.

I've been having erratic readings with one of my speed sensor signals, and I've just now come across this video this evening, partly promoted by your post here! The TL;DW: of this is try rotating the sensor 90 degrees, the pickup inside it is actually only a small line of magnet, which may not necessarily be perfectly centred, and it might not actually be sensing the tooth well enough. This might have an impact at your higher speeds. Once it stops raining, I'll be popping my wheel off and giving mine a rotate - and I'll report back on my findings!

The very latest G4X firmware (released only in the last couple of days) can reassign Ignition and Injector outputs, so that you can get around the previous limitation of needing to use Injector 1-x and Ignition 1-x outputs in sequence. This mean that some boards, such as the Evo 1-3, which had hardware on Ign4, could not be set up for sequential ignition, as you had to use Ign1-4, but with the new firmware, you could use Ign 1, 2, 3 and 5. However, for almost every other output - unused Ignition and Injector drivers, and most Aux outputs (other than those which have specific hardware on the vehicle-specific board, or are "dedicated", such as Aux 5-8 for an idle stepper motor), it is otherwise completely customisable as to what function is used on which pin. As for G4+ vs G4X - G4+ hasn't been sold for a few years now, so unless you're getting one for a very good price compared to a new G4X... But, if you're happy with re-pinning an ECU connector, and "losing" the ability to quickly swap back to stock ECU (however, why would you, once you've got a Link installed) - even a G4+ is still a great ECU, even if for a different vehicle - but the G4X is better. Just have a good look at what inputs & outputs are available, and make sure you'll have enough on the main header + expansions for your needs, and consider fun things you might want to do in the future... I found myself rapidly running out of inputs!

The "why" is because it's marginally easier for them to have a single analog pin than figure out how CANBUS works, it's a relatively new technology (introduced about 20 years ago), so many "tuners" haven't heard of it or know how use it When CANBUS is available for anything, especially lambda, this is substantially better - the controller has the data digitally, why would you want to convert it to a 0-5v output to then convert it back to digital data - it's an unnecessary conversion, and one that's liable to interference and offsets, causing inaccuracies. Wire it to CANBUS, and be safer in the knowledge that what the controller/gauge is reporting is what the ECU is seeing.

You can't use the standard engine fan functionality with a PWM output, so you'll want to disable/ignore most of the Engine Fan functionality (unless you've still got A/C, and wish to have the Idle Up adjustments apply when the fans are running at full speed for the A/C) Here's two possible examples you could use for the GP PWM Output table: The first is loosly based on what a Legnum VR-4 does with A/C off (I have no A/C in my Anglia), where it varies fan speed based upon temperature. I, however, have a Chargecooler, so I have the fan come on earlier - for you, I'd ditch the 31 row, and change the 30 axis value to 84 instead - and of course you can vary the fan speeds. The Mitsubishi controller "fails safe" - if it loses the control signal it runs at 100%, so my logic here is inverted. The second option, below, could be used if you don't want speed-based variations, but purely on ECT and whether A/C is engaged or not. This is how I've set up the output so that it's always active and grabbing the value from the table:

Sorry for the delay in responding here, @Vaughan, but here is a config and log. I step through, over 30 seconds, the rotary dial going from position 0 through to position 10, and back again. You will see that the GP Analog Value is correctly following the step each time the dial moves, but the VA5 status only goes False when GP Analog Value goes to 2 GP Analog Input error.llgGPInputIssue.pclxx

It's something I'll be looking at closely for my Anglia very soon, so will be following, or, possibly, be the one posting up stuff if no one else has before I get round to it!

Nope, not possible. The stock ECU image is dedicated for the processor in the ECU, it has nothing in common with a Link ECU. The Link G4+ can output OBD2 data, if the CANBUS setup is configured and connected correctly, but using CAN (which publishes data, as opposed to OBD which requests it) is faster.

Each user is given a small amount of space to upload images, tunes, logs etc, so I guess you've filled your quota. Use something like Google Drive or Microsoft OneDrive to share anything else, or you can remove old attachments to clear up some space. Your lambda not working, or change of speedo is not going to be the cause of your lack of start. The best thing to share to get help is a copy of your current tune, plus a log with every single parameter.

You need to essentially connect via USB to tune from a Windows computer. Whether you can reliably extend this USB signal somehow...

Share a copy of your tune (the .pclr file generated from File -> Save As) and we'll be able to see what's causing it. But, I guess I'd first look at the Accel Fuel settings.

Press X on your GP PWM table and set up your other axis to AC output state, then you'll get two columns for your speed. Here's an example - my output is inverted - 0 is full on and 100 is full off.

The "Find Devices" is only for programming Link CAN Lambda modules, it won't show anything else, so you can forget about this, it's leading you down a rabbit hole. From what I understand, the Haltech products have hard coded CAN streams so they offer "Box A" and "Box B" as separate products. There are TC8 streams provided with PC Link, whether these will work for the TC4s, I'm not sure... There's details in the Help for how to set this up.

We'll need to see a log of it exhibiting the issue, too, but my guess is that Cyclic Idle isn't set up correctly, so at 20% throttle, all the air & fuel that this will usually provide is still being injected completely, hence the revs raising. My understanding is that the TPS should still be calibrated from your "normal" 0-100 range (without the throttle kicker engaged), which is why there's not an option to have a second calibration for the TPS.

Are you actually using the Anti Lag & Cyclic Idle settings in the ECU, or are you just switching between two different fuel tables? Can you share your configuration so we can look at what you're actually trying to do, rather than try to interpret your words?

Have you also adjusted the injector data (deadtimes etc) for the new ones?

Brands Hatch Performance is a well regarded supplier, they just haven't updated their own product images from G4+ to G4X - you'll definitely get a G4X from them, though.