Fraser
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Posts posted by Fraser
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All fixed. Swapped the pins over to ign 5+6 and set to thermo fan 1+2
Thanks all!
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Fantastic! Thanks Adam!
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Thanks for the replies. I know how i could fix it. I just wondered if there were any outputs which were open on power off rather than sunk to ground.
Looks like there are not
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Thanks for the reply Gsab.
Yes, the polartiy is selectable but it is always pulled low when powered down.
Swapping the polarity just inverts the action when the ecu is powered.
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I have my fan control wired from Aux 4 to a relay which is not on a switched live. Previously the fan was on a temp switch which prevented heat soak when the engine was off.
When the ecu powers down the fan comes on. The fan works fine when the ecu is powered.
Is there an output which doesnt pull-low when the ecu isnt powered?
Im sure i read there is but i cant remember if i read it or made it up.
It would be much easier to swap the pin than re-wire the factory harness.
Thanks.
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I run e-throttle on it. As above.
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On 8/15/2019 at 9:56 AM, Adamw said:
No, that guy had his sensor wired backwards and jumped in and modified the flywheel without checking.
No. I can assure you, that is not what happened.
Actually i read the link helpfile that said the ecu may struggle with the OEM tooth config, so i machined it to a conventional pattern before i even did the ecu install. Rather than build it, then have to pull the engine again to machine the flywheel.
Then i forgot i had set the trigger pattern to 'Sport Clio' and by sheer chance, it ran as the polarity was inverted.
So now i have a rock solid idle and a correct polarity with a conventional trigger pattern.
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Yes. Runs a treat.
Using OE ETB.
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I now have this running beautifully smooth.
No more hunting, spitting and stumbling.
Thanks for the help.
Fraser
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Fair point. I will try the map changes soon and let you know. Just my luck that it actually ran decent....with wrong polarity, and trigger pattern! or i'd have changed it earlier.
Next time the engine is out i'll swap the flywheels back and try.
why is the amplitude so much greater with the reversed polarity?
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Adam,
I followed the help note in the Link manual which advised i had to machine off the double high tooth to a conventional 60-2 arrangement. See me do this here..
I really wanted to keep the trigger un touched so i could use the OE ECU. that's pretty annoying if i didnt have to do that as i cant swap back now without swapping the flywheel...
That aside, if the trig pattern is changed to multi/missing 60-2 i should be ok?
Will try today (UK) and report back
Cheers,
Fraser
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As requested. File names are self explanatory.
cheers,
Fraser
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Simon.
No cam trig used.
Engine ran great for months apart from a wandering idle which i was puting down to the inverted crank signal causing the ecu not trigger on the right edge.
Since ive tried to get it to run 'right' ive ran into these problems.
If i swap it back, it runs fine.
Cheers
Fraser
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Gents, thanks for the feedback.
sorry for the delayed reply. Flat battery, frosty weather, kids...etc...
just having a go just now. swapped the wires on the pickup and no RPM sig and no noticeable trigger on the pclink scope.
dropped the arming threshold as low as i could and got it to register on the scope - showing a now correct polarity (attached). but i still see no RPM sig.
this is a fully charged battery running at normal crank speed.
for some reason there is a marked loss of power generated from the pickup when the wires are inverted.
what to do now?
cheers,
Fraser
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Can someone confirm that the attached trigger trace is the WRONG polarity?
It goes negative as the tooth approaches which would tell me it's wrong, but if i swap the 2 cores over, it wont start at all.
Is there a way in software to invert it or can anyone explain why it wont fire when its physically swapped?
Sensor is an OE Renault crank sensor and plug.
Fraser
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Made the changes as suggested and idle control burst into life.
Thanks for the help. I doubt i would have found that one myself!
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Thanks for the reply. I thought it was something stupid i had missed.
I will give it a try in a couple of days and let you know.
Fraser
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Adam,
See a selection of logs and map attached
cheers,
Fraser
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Thanks for the reply. Ive not selected a drive speed lockout so i assumed the road speed was not required.
Surely i dont need to install road speed feedback to get it to idle?
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Hi folks.
First time Link user here and ive had no issues tuning with it so far. Trying to polish up the details now but i'm really struggling to get the closed loop idle control working after so many attempts.
'Idle status' always shows 'speed NOT selected'
The ethrottle target is always 'table 1' surely this should change to ethrottle target at some point?
The ethrottle target table 1 is set to '0' at closed throttle and base idle position is '2.5' to give an idle speed of 1k rpm.
No amount of increasing or reducing the error by altering the idle setpoint will make it respond or 'control'
All it will do is perform a % increase when the coolat fan comes on, and it jumps to this setting with no issues.
How does it know whether or not to look at table 1 in an idle condition?
Would uploading a short log file help work out whats going on or are there specific settings i should check?
The help file doesnt have a lot of detail on this topic.
Cheers!
Renault trigger signal/polarity issue (now resolved)
in G4+
Posted
No.
There is no ignitor on the OE coil