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Kitto

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Everything posted by Kitto

  1. Kitto

    I/O Expansions?

    Brad, Cruise works on my vehicle. But only set and cancel from the brake pedal work. Obviously the on / off master switch works as well. However accelerate and resume do not work. If you press either while cruise is activated cruise just cancels. I'm using a single AN volt for the inputs. From memory 1V is cruise on, 2V is set/accel, 3V is resume/decel and 4V is cancel. All inputs work, but cruise does not work as intended - i haven't had time to actually investigate any further.
  2. Kitto

    I/O Expansions?

    What exactly? I never fitted an I/O expander. I might in the future. I did however get pretty much everything i need working, working. Few issues i need to chase - cruise on light doesn't work and cruise accelerate / decelerate / resume does not work. Only SET CRUISE works.
  3. I don't want to install the older firmware as it has a fuel pump speed control issue that the new 5.6.6 fixed. There was also an update to live lambda map tables of some description which my tuner wants my vehicle to use. All i need is PC Link.
  4. Can someone send me a drop box link or similar to the latest un-released PC Link 5.6.6 Please. My tuner has updated the firmware on my ECU and i'm now unable to connect with the older version obviously. He had to update it to solve the fuel pump speed control bug. He's a busy man and getting it from him will take time . Too big to email to me no doubt. Regards,
  5. As above, if you don't have a fuel pulse damper, fit one and see if it fixes the erratic pressure.
  6. Haha, so i'm not going mad! Surely it cannot be a hardware issue with the Xtreme? It works under test function and GP Output function, just not under the Starter Solenoid function, Points towards a bug within the firmware? That's ok, i'll leave it as is for the moment. Be another 3 months before the car is operational anyway. In the mean time i'll just have to hold the key while starting.
  7. Exactly the same issue. Tried it with Test on mode with Aux 7 - perfect, also tried the incandescent lamp - perfect. Tried it under Starter Solenoid feature, no go. I did try something else to make sure when an the cranking signal was active the output comes on. I setup Aux 7 as a GP output > Cond 1 only > Enable when DI 7 High > Driver type High Side. Worked perfectly! With the key in the cranking position (Input 7 high), Aux 7 would illuminate the bulb. Certainly seems to be an issue with the Starter Solenoid feature or possibly any feature that drives a high signal? Or i do have a config error. I'll upload my map shortly. See attached photo for what i did to get the output to come on with cranking signal high. ***EDIT*** Think I've found a bug / the cause! Under Aux 8, Select Starter Solenoid > Select Polarity - High > select driver type - High > Perform Store > Power cycle. ECU reverts Driver type back to LOW. Does not save HIGH driver type. Map attached. Link Starter Issue Adam PCL.pclr
  8. Black Xtreme wire in - i wired it in I was just thinking that, I'll try Aux 7 next which is for the boost control solenoid. I can attach my map, but there's nothing to it.. Engine hasn't been setup or any tuning done at all yet, literally just IO configuring so to speak. Note to add, i have tried other relays as well, Even tired a 2W incandescent 12V bulb - no go. But again, it will drive the light bulb with the test function on.
  9. 79 Ohms. Measuring Aux 8 wire at the ECU connector through the relay coil to ground. Perfect.
  10. Ok; With the relay connected i'm getting 0.5V across the relay when in starter solenoid function. When in test on function i'm getting a good 13V across the relay and the relay enables. For some reason, ONLY when i switch to starter solenoid function the available current is zip, barely enough to drive a T10 LED, relay coil brings the voltage down to 0.5V. Output 8 resistance to earth with the ECU harness connector disconnected or connected is open circuit. Resistance of Aux 8 wire itself from ECU to relay is 1 ohm.
  11. 11.8V is measured with no load connected. What is confusing is it works perfectly under test mode function and i receive 13.3V to the output. Will measure.
  12. Hello all, I'm having a puzzling issue with Auxiliary output number 8 on my Xtreme ECU. Aux 8 is setup as a high polarity driver (drives battery voltage to output) and is switching a 12V relay with an impedance of around 80 ohms. The reason i am high driving it is i don't have a 12V ignition switched source nearby. When in test output mode 'ON', Polarity set to HIGH and Driver type set to HIGH the Relay turns on and off as expected without any issue. However when you assign the output to 'Starter Solenoid', flick the key to the start position the relay does not enable. I can see the ECU getting the crank signal and the ECU turning on the output but the relay doesn't energize. I have tried changing Polarity and Driver type with no success. On further investigation i found that the output will drive an LED ok under the starter solenoid condition but not the relay. Furthermore investigation i found that under test mode the output provides 13.4V but when under the starter solenoid feature the output only provides 11.8V even when both the Polarity and Driver type are set to high. Latest firmware revision installed Possible bug with the firmware or something else? Regards,
  13. No problem, thought that might be the case. I shall install a relay as i knew i'd have to do after turning the key off for the first time. Maybe something good to add into the help files of the new PC Link release? "A switched (key ON) 12V must be supplied to the other terminal of the injector" is what it currently states. Maybe add in a bit more information; "A switched (key ON) 12V must be supplied to the other terminal of the injector to prevent a back feed into the ECU. If the injectors are wired to 12V constant the ECU will stay powered up when the ignition is turned off. This applies to the Xtreme, Fury and Thunder which have peak and hold injection drivers." Regards,
  14. Evening all. Before i start, i know what the issue is and the corrective action. This is a question so i know the why. G4+ Xtreme - I am at power up and testing stage; When the ignition is turned to off the injectors start pulsing like crazy, creating a back feed into the ECU. The reason for this is i have wired the injectors to constant 12V rather than switched. I did this without really thinking about it too much as the factory setup has the injectors wired to constant 12V so i replicated it. I'm well aware of not wiring solenoids etc to constant 12V driven off normal outputs as that will create a back feed, however i thought the injector drives would have been different having no fly back circuit. I couldn't really find a lot of information on injector wiring in the help files about feedback on the injector drives other than it stating a switched supply must be used for the injectors (hindsight). Is this a prominent known issue with having injectors permanently connected to 12V? Obviously the easy fix is a simple relay install which i shall do. Regards,
  15. Kitto

    ISC with E Throttle?

    Hello All Chatting with my tuner about E throttle.. Idle control came up in conversation when using E throttle. Now as i understand, normal E throttle setups use the throttle plate to control idle, does this completely negate the use of a 2 wire ISC solenoid or any ISC for that matter? My concerns with E throttle controlling idle is the lack of resolution, 1% of plate movement has the potential to bypass a large amount of air. He even mentioned one vehicle he had, 0.1% of throttle input was too much in plate opening. When the ignition switch is turned on, does the E throttle crack open X % to allow for base air bypass for starting and idling? IE, the factory ISC has a bleed screw that sets the base bleed air manually and then the ISC takes over for fine adjustment. Another question we both had was when selecting E throttle, is the option still available to use a solenoid valve for ISC rather than the throttle plate for idle? Sorry for all of these questions, i would be able to answer a lot of these if i had the ECU on power already but alas i haven't finalised my configuration yet therefore i haven't starting wiring. Trying to cover off all my bases - reworking wiring is something i certainly do not want. Regards,
  16. Nissan twin cam coil packs ground the high current side through the coil pack body (transformer core) to the head. They have a high current 12V supply, ECU trigger reference and a low current ground through the plug. Those injectors should be fine, they should be around 4 ohms?
  17. Kitto

    Link Can Lambda wiring

    Have a look at the attached photos showing CAN configuration wiring. You will need a 120R resistor at the Lambda plug. Typically yellow and green are used for CAN wiring in the automotive industry and white and blue for industrial applications. From memory the Lambda has yellow and green.
  18. Kitto

    I/O Expansions?

    Well it appears it will quite happily cover A LOT of I/O through CAN. Obviously critical inputs shouldn't be put through CAN such as TPS, MAP as you have said. Point taken, I have the mindset of 'what if' though. But yeah fair enough. The most amount of CAN devices i would ever use on this vehicle would be; Dash, Wideband O2 (already have), I/O module such as that AEM or similar and possibly another controller for wheel speed inputs if i deem to want traction control with E throttle. Ohh right, i understand now. Hmmm, well in that case i might wire Set and Accelerate in parallel so it work as you would still expect it to in a term of increasing speed. From memory if you have cruise ON and push the accelerate switch it will do the same as Setting cruise speed anyway. Clutch switch i'll wire in regardless, i'll use it for launch control / throttle blipping anyway. This looks like a goer for me and is what i had in my mind after what Brad said. Yeah build a resistor voltage divider circuit, pretty easy. Very true, and i'm not trying to over complicate things but more cover all bases if i do decide to fit E throttle down the track. Thanks!
  19. Kitto

    I/O Expansions?

    I did read in another thread that they have limitations. What are the specific limitations of a CAN IO expansion module? You are correct, i could use CAN 1 to free up another two digital inputs, i just had this idea of keeping CAN 1 free for something else down the track if ever needed. Cruise Accelerate is actually an input used on this vehicle. When cruise is already set, you depress that button and cruise will start increasing speed without pedal input until you release the switch. Say you're doing 80km/h and coming into a 110km/h zone, simply hold the Accel tab and the throttle will increase. The vehicle in question has from standard; Cruise Master On and Off but we don't care about the off switch Cruise Set Cruise Accelerate Cruise Resume Brake Sw input for cancel Clutch Sw for cancel i have added as this particular trim model was never released in a manual transmission version. In saying all of that Adam, does Brad's idea of using an Analogue input for multiple digital switch inputs work well in your mind? Cruise Master on - 1V, Cruise set - 2V, Cruise Accelerate - 3V, Cruise Resume - 4V. Keep Brake Sw as a hard DI for safety reasons as well as the clutch. Neat and not bad! Is the AEM unit posted by integrale8v a viable option as well potentially?
  20. Kitto

    I/O Expansions?

    No can do on that one i'm afraid, i'll be keeping the vehicle as original looking on the interior as possible. Sorry just an OCD thing. Sure. I have just had a look and i'm mistaken, i currently do have one spare AN volt input even with E throttle installed. Link G4+ Pin Assignment Forum Version.xlsx
  21. Kitto

    I/O Expansions?

    Interesting theory and i completely understand the concept. Similar to AN Volt gear selection input. Thing is, this vehicle is from 1989, almost 30 years ago haha. From memory the factory system switches high not low so there is a reasonable amount of work involved to change the wiring to suit AN volt to ground input. The other issue is i have zero AN volt channels free, The E Throttle uses all the spares up.
  22. Kitto

    I/O Expansions?

    Good evening all. I know this has been asked in a way before as i have searched but i couldn't find a definite 100% answer. Firstly, I/O expander CAN cards for Link ECU's - to what point do they exist / work? I found a thread that states the Motec E888 works for inputs only which is a bit of a bummer especially seeing the typical Motec pricing makes it not worthwhile. Is there anything else on the market that allows a Link to expand its IO? Note, the ECU in question is an Xtreme. Has anyone cracked the Haltech CAN IO to work with a Link? Secondly, if the above is not really plausible, does Link have any merit to produce a CAN expander of their own? I thought i was set with having an Xtreme and figured i'd have plenty of IO for a street car. But now i'm looking at the feasibility of going E Throttle down the track, which is fine and i have enough spare IO to do that, however i do NOT have enough spare IO to move cruise control over to the ECU as well. Currently cruise is vacuum actuated controlled by a small speed control computer, going to E Throttle requires the ECU to control cruise control, and cruise control done via the ECU requires another 5 digital inputs which i just won't have spare alongside E Throttle. In hindsight a Thunder would have been a better choice. IO needed for E throttle (minimum) E Throttle relay activate E throttle Motor + (i have this reserved already) E throttle Motor - (i have this reserved already) TPS 1 (already used as per normal manual throttle plate) TPS 2 FPS 1 FPS 2 IO for needed for cruise; Cruise On Cruise Set Cruise accelerate Cruise Resume Brake Switch input Clutch Switch input (already assigned without cruise) That's quite a lot of IO! If anyone is curious i can upload a spreadsheet of my IO assignments. Regards, Daniel.
  23. How did you find it unreliable? Hit and miss on the the trigger point? The G4+ is ok with receiving a cam sync once every 720 crank rotation. The current crank trigger i have bought is a 12 tooth flat, but i can change it to a 12-1. Yeah i know this would work perfectly, there is no room for this near the cam gear and it's pretty busy inside the head as well. (Rockers, lifters and lifter blocks) From factory, The RB30 uses a distributor with an internal cam trigger with two trigger points. One trigger is every 1 degree of cam rotation and the other is every 60 degrees of cam rotation. They are very unreliable for accurate trigger measurement. The timing belt and tooth drive on the distributor introduces A LOT of timing scatter. Whilst a lot of people remove the factory wheel out of the distributor and replace it with a single slot wheel for cam sync on a crank trigger setup and it works quite well, i personally wanted to delete the distributor altogether. There are aftermarket kits that look at the cam gear itself for cam sync but they are large and bulky. Hence my idea of looking at a rocker arm (extremely discreet and quite hidden).
  24. I understand completely what you are saying. That might pose an issue. That is an option i'll look at, the RB30 rocker cover is just perfect to have a boss welded on directly above the inlet rockers. Nah, going sequential. I did think about this initially weeks ago, however due to the design of the head and the distributor hole it simply won't work - well not even remotely easily. Certainly not using the distributor gear, if i could get the sensor to look at the cam's teeth then machine off all the teeth bar one that would work but not an easy feat.
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