duncan351

Sorry for that confusion. I would open the throttle seeing if motor needed more air during cranking to figure out if it was flooding but didn't make a difference.

I think I got it. Motor started after entering 0 in the crank hold table in those particular ECT temps. Couldn't figure out how to delete post.

I have done everything I can think of and made so many adjustment such as injector angle (helped Alot but not enough) motor tries to run but can get past that point in the cold weather. 60* or higher regardless if the ECT's are cold motor will start up no problems. I just can't get over the hump. I have attached a log of attempted start ups. I made adjustments while the log continued to record. I'm close but dang this is kicking my butt. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Mc70EbqvDjb1k1InHXTE2HR-MgF2HBM-/view?usp=drive_link

Thanks Vaughan! I was able to lower my frequency by choose 2000ppm OC output on my Dakota Digital SGIG-5C which worked perfectly. I was ignorant to the frequency. Thanks to you posting that frequency I was able to figure out what to do. Thanks again Vaughan!!

Crap!!! Thank you!! I wasn’t sure what parameters to see in my logs. That chart DI inputs doesn't look promising. DI 9 & 10 are still available however they aren’t specifying max hertz if I am looking at it correctly. Are there any options to convert this signal to be acceptable to the Fury ECU?

Hey guy, I have Tremec Mag F transmission with the typical 2 wire 17 tooth VSS. The signal goes from the sensor to the Dakota Digital SGI-5C convertor box. Then the signal is sent to the factory Nissan 240sx cluster which works perfectly. The factory wiring is setup so that the VSS signal goes through the cluster first then ECU which is originally how I had the wiring done. But since I was having this issue I spliced directly in to the signal wire bypassing the Dakota Digtial & clutser thinking that might be causing a problem with signal north of 104mph however I had no success. Pull up resistor is enable, speed is calibrated however after 104 mph the ecu displays 0 and starts over counting mph from 0 while still driving well over 100mph. The problem is this is affecting my boost by speed. This shouldn't be happening anyway. Here are a few logs. Can anyone please help with this issue? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LgwECn2IvvxMuZZxMhfVI-InsnsrPI4e/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xBxPU5CdH714_IY6auHx-SreTcru6FVQ/view?usp=drive_link

I used GP PWM function on my new cooling control. Set my frequency which is constant. Chose "Switch Logic" to Cond 1 or 2 1 Cond ECT > Sw Cond 2 There is no option for the AC output (INJ Dr# 7) nor AC Rquest (DI #8) How do you get ECU to activate fans when A/C is turned on or Compressor clutch is activated?

Coming back just to update thread. So my trigger errors turned out to be bad wiring joint in the crank signal wiring. During this time I also bought a genuine Toyota crank trigger wheel and installed it. No more errors and can rev to 9K again. No complete resolution on the PHR trigger wheel.

So I have had the problem with my fury ecu doesn't control boost appropriately. I have to make a pull through 3rd and 4th gear pushing the full WG DC table before the Boost Gear WG trim will apply. Once the BGWG controls boost it will consistently control boost per the BGWG setting until ECU is powered down. Once I start the car from parking it the ecu will run the 100% of the WG DC table. Then I have to make 3rd and 4th gear pull at 32psi before the BGWG table is applied and pulls the boost back to the settings entered in the BGGWG table. I am running a 4 port boost solenoid. Can anyone tell me why this delay is happening? Log: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RGZGDnMAUsCUZmIIHLAAYlyZPOyeUSXe/view?usp=share_link Tune: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vo4An-dYQfLr-OV2AZgPLAwZwuQcPBc9/view?usp=share_link

Thanks Adam. I have updated the links so they are accessible now. Upon closer inspection of the Power House Racing 2jz timing gear, the teeth are shaped a little differently. I'm concerned if this is a problem at the higher RPM's under the 1JZ VVti Trigger mode for the Link. Adam can you confirm if this might be a concern? Here is a link to the crank trigger wheel where it is mated to see the slight shape difference between Stock timing belt crank gear and PHR's. https://www.powerhouseracing.com/product/6908/phr-one-piece-billet-timing-belt-drive-gear-for-2jz-gte-36-2-tooth-pickup-wheel

I have been running Link Fury flawlessly until recently with no trigger errors for a little of a year now. Then one day I took car out and made a pull and couldn't do it. I have read a ton of threads where people experience the exact same issue. Not sure exactly what's going on but I seek help of what to do to resolve this problem. I have replaced my trigger wheel with a Power House Racing Billet trigger wheel instead of the stock cast one as I have gone through a few of those. The last one had an edge chip off causing the trigger issues. I replaced it. Check Trigger scope and scope looked good to me. I have checked connections at ECU and Crank sensor plug (its new plug and pins with brand new Toyota VVti crank sensor) I crank sensor voltage was reading very strong (19v) with the new PHR trigger wheel so I put a 10K resistor and the voltage was still too high even with filters turned all the way up. So I replace 10K resistor with a 20K and was able to lower my filter to level 2 and arming voltage was in the same range triggers were before all these problems started. I took car out last night and was able to make only two clean pulls. After that I have numerous scopes with the trigger errors which are occurring right near 5k rpms. I have analyzed these two scopes and they look clean to me but I'm new diagnosing trigger errors. Any suggestions? Tune: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_yKRdcBuEsbtzzF0NsYgqiJmayx2mhzP&authuser=0&usp=drive_link Clean pull scope: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DZin6pwKAKF333GKMkVMsIHR0PZJ1CyG&authuser=0&usp=drive_link Trigger Error Scope: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NGOcWKc8RYa792y6SE86csbathR-Xwha&authuser=0&usp=drive_link

SC1243 did you ever figure out your trigger error problems with your 2jz? I am experiencing very similar issues you are describing. I have Changed out trigger wheel, brand new Toyota Crank sensor, put a 10K resistor, then a 20k resistor, adjusted arming voltage and filters and still getting trigger errors at high rpms. Did have a problem for almost a year then one day I start my car and make a hit and I can 't make a clean pull anymore.

Here is my file. My current Arming voltage on trigger 1 is 3.5 from 5K to redline. I'm thinking I need to raise the arming voltage in that area and see if my trigger errors lower, correct? My cam and crank sensor wiring from the ecu to the sensors are shielded too. Update: I was able to capture the logs during the trigger errors @ 5K rpms. I see the drop in the logs but do not know how to deal with the problem. I ohm'd the crank sensor and it is still good according the Toyota manual. 2.07ohms cold and 2.72ohms hot. I believe I have a problem with one of the teeth on my trigger wheel. Its so weird the timing of this happening when I change coils but that's what I'm interpreting from the logs and its consistent on the scope. Trigger Logs: https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Uw3znMaWkXeSnUolXUh8D8YOhUbcXoz/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w0IYvfsDikkk-Ws85BEEAT1WnJp-T1UB/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o7AM1q4hzWWrbbrKFz4U5XSkyq7TNNal/view?usp=sharing

Its a VVti 2JZ with factory triggers. Adamw its toyota 2jz vvt using factory sensors. I will get the tune loaded and try to get a few trigger scopes tomorrow evening.

Please forgive me for my ignorance but how did you determine crank sensor?

My denso 1zz coils were getting tired as they worked most of time but some times after this hot summer in TX I would experience a spark blow out. I bought them used and had them for a 3 yrs and decided to upgrade to the GTR Hitachi coils. So the car runs fine. Initially I would have to run 3.8ms dwell at 5-6K rpms to get some clean pulls. Was running a ngk copper plug 6282 gapped at .018.The pulls at 29psi which is roughly north of 950hp would be clean for the first few pulls. After that I would experience spark plug blow out. Voltage is supplied through a dedicated 30amp relay just for coils, Checked Grounds and added more. Earth routing is 1/0 awg wire from neg battery to trans daisy chained to another 1/0 AWG to one side of the block, daisy chained to 1/0 AWG to frame. Have 2 10 AWG's & coil earth all at same point from head to same point on block with 1/0AWG and other 10 AWG going to firewall. Then added another 1/0AWG from other side of block to other side of frame. I have lowered my dwell thinking it was saturation and over dwell from 2.6ms in the same 5-6K to 3.3ms and still no change. I have looked over my logs and I can see anything besides the error when the blow happens which seems logical considering violent the motor responds. I can modulate the the throttle 40%ish and can make a clean pull all the way past 8K rpms too but nothing more. Been on the same tune for 3 yrs with zero issues and made tons of pulls. This issues is a thousand times worse with these R35 coils that are supposed to be so awesome. I have attached some logs during the issue. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qxOAwHEUPw6wyM2U1iYqLBFT4Ui8PjFk/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ME6mRciF0VSzSXHiY_757-gyBGrZW1vB/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jNnWlzyV2ckDoXSfS88h4y-YL6F6RjiU/view?usp=sharing

Hey guys, I'm am struggling with major over boosting problems with the Cold temps in Texas. Its about 40 degrees outside and I am over boosting like crazy with closed loop boost control. When its warmer outside the closed loop works great. Can anyone point me in the correct direction with straightening this out? 4 port MAC Valve Freq: 15Hz overf boosting log.llg

Thanks guys, I'll make the appropriate changes to the target tables and see how it goes. I anticipate the boost control will act much better.

That's not reality for me. with my target at 326 which converts to 47.3 psi. Its resulting in 43 psi of boost in reality. On 93 octane 140 converts to 20.6 psi and reality is I'm actually building boost levels to 20psi and slowing dropping to 18psi in my last log with these exact same settings. I understand absolute but that's not what I'm seeing or actual reality on how much boost is being produced. What's happening? Where am I messing up exactly sir?

On 93 octane I'm trying to target 20psi not 5. How & where are you seeing 5 psi? I'm messing up somewhere if that's what you are seeing.

Here you go Adam. Chris with Duron Adjustments.pclr

I have a Fury with multi fuel setup. My current ethenol content is 11% and trying to get my boost control stable but struggling to understand what seems to be the two boost table to function correctly. So my boost control is closed loop and setup boost by speed. I'm have set my wg duty cycle in boost table 1 to progressively up to 21.5% however in my logs I am seeing my wg duty cycle only go up to 14.6 and the active boost tables are interpolate Tables 1 and 2. My Boost table Ratio is in the 0% range within the "Fuel multi blend %" and the Fuel multi Blend table itself is in the 0 % too. Boost table 2 wg duty cycle in the psi range that I'm running on 93 octane fuel is "0". My experience in most aftermarket ecu's is that in the fuel blend percentage set to 0% = boosts table 1 wg duty cycle only and 100% fuel blend percentage = boost table 2 however based on my logs it looks like this is not happening. Am I interpreting the logs correctly? If yes what do I need to change? boost log.llg

With my 4 port boost valve and with multi fuel setup I have read numerous times the help file done my research as much as I can and have come to the conclusion to setup a partial closed loop boost control setup. Just wanted any additional input on my setting up before I install in the car. Is there anything you think I might be missing? E85 High boost WGDC table switched to MAP as load axis Latest.pclr

Model Multi fuel

After start up on cold starts the engine is getting too much fuel making for a very rough idle during the warm period Once it gets to about 140 or so it clears up. I have zero'd out the cells in the Warm up enrichment tables. It would have been nice if they could go negative basically making a ECT fuel trim but this table just doesn't have enough control. Any suggestions? Update: I just enabled the 5D fuel table and selected always on with my Axis's ECT and TP Main. From there I will pull fuel with end the ECT temps and see if this will work properly but I would think it should. Gonna try this tomorrow morning when I wake up. Am I on the right track?