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barge

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Everything posted by barge

  1. It is a stock ignition system. I thought it may be worse having the coil pack with the spark plug wire in between for checking timing but it didn't seem to make a difference. I guess if there's a hardware upgrade I'd rather just get it done now and be done with it. (does this require going back to the mother land?) I'll check that fuel temp. Yes I thought I was doing slow and digging around I saw that slow setting in the config. I'll try that change too.
  2. barge

    G4+ to G4X Canbus

    Shouldn't be a problem I guess I was just checking to make sure I needed to do through them all before I spent the time doing it.
  3. barge

    G4+ to G4X Canbus

    Unless I'm reading the software wrong it looks like there were some changes between the G4+ CAN parameters and the G4x. Example: IAT G4+ : Min -50, Max 150, Display Offset 50 (all degF) If I put 75 in the test calculator for a PClink Display data I get CANbus Data of 125 G4X : Min -50, Max 500, No Display Offset listed My dash was displaying an incorrect IAT which is what led me to look at this so I'm assuming there really is a change and that there isn't a default offset... Is there a list of CANbus parameters that have changed? or am I missing something? Basically I import all my g4+ streams into my g4X and I'm seeing incorrect values.
  4. I need to work through some comm issues before i'm able to actually try getting this working again but I wanted to see if someone could look through my maps and see where I'm way off. The cam timing offset numbers are not correct at all... can I test these on the g4+ and use all 3 values in the g4x? It doesn't look like the help file has any starting values. With my current comm issues I can't stay connected long enough to test and set them. The car is running, driving, tracking, idling, etc etc and has been for over a year on the g4+. I, as best I can tell, have transfered every parameter over to the g4x program. However with the g4x installed the car will barely idle. I did the MAP cal, APS, Ethrottle cals and was able to force enough idle throttle percentage to be able to check the base timing which was close, only needed 0.4 adjustment. I don't have any logs as I was getting frustrated restarting my laptop over and over again as it kept losing comms and locking up. I'm either missing something stupid or my ECU has an issue. Oh, these are both WRX104 PnP units. Zero wiring changes between them. Just swapping the ECU board inside the case. LesboRacer EJ20x v3.20.pclr LesboRacerX 1.05.pclx
  5. Yep, that's what it was. I tried doing this after hitting the change parameter button but not before. It's also now popping up in front when i'm not connected. Not sure if this is just a random windows type issue or what. I'll make sure to try it again connected to the ecu when I get back to swapping.
  6. Every table I've tried.
  7. Have there been any real solutions or resolutions to the comm issues? I tried to upgrade from g4+ to g4x yesterday and basically wasted 2 hours trying to get it going before swapping back to the G4+. I can't stay connected long enough to even do anything with the engine running. I'm also seeing other odd stuff that's off topic for this discussion thread.
  8. I'm using the latest version. 6.20.40 and using Windows10.
  9. When I'm in the axis setup area for a table I have an issue that I can't select or change an axis parameter. If I hit the button to select a new a parameter for an axis it acts like the window is open (dings if I try to do anything else). I have to hit esc to "close it" but I see no window and cannot select a parameter.
  10. Be aware of the CAN ID's The Link they are in Decimal and many other devices use Hex.
  11. It handles much bigger pumps. Largely regarded as being able to handle 20-30a.
  12. Replace the subaru controller with a Jag XJ controller. That's what I ran on my subaru before I went brushless. I also ran it with and without a cheap amazon voltage booster/regulator up to 16V for more flow. They're easy to get under $100 and I can get you connectors if you're in the US.
  13. barge

    PnP ECU Bench Power

    Thanks Adam... Wasn't sure if that would get buried over in that section. I ended up using I think B6 and D3 on the header and that worked just fine as well.
  14. barge

    PnP ECU Bench Power

    Doing a search it looks like the older ECUs had a convenient spot on the board to power up the PnP ECUs. I've got a WRX104 g4x coming that i want to power up on the bench so I can get that software dll issue resolved so that I can get my tune all transferred over from g4+. Is there a convenient spot on the g4x board to do this? or should I just power all the appropriate pins at the header?
  15. Is there a same/similar connection method to power up a g4x PNP on the bench?
  16. If I just purchased a wrx104x ecu will it have the hardware fix done?
  17. barge

    WRX DBW setup issues.

    I'm assuming the g4X PnP have configurable Ethrottle frequency then compared to the fixed frequency in the G4+? That would be super nice as my big throttle body doesn't like the lower fixed frequency in the +
  18. The microplex eliminates the software cost but also limits what you can do.... but I would agree the cost of entry is a bit high. I don't want to sell anything here but if anyone needs MRS help I'll do what I can. I'm mostly just a dabbler myself.
  19. Quad AVCS does get a bit sticky on the IO counts. I kept clutch and brake as I use those for flat foot shifting and auto blip. I don't have AC, Tacho, or Wheel speed though so that helps a bunch. I believe I asked the same question a while ago about aux 7/8. I know I used one or both of them... at least i'm 90% without opening up my map. If it lets you assign it that's a good sign that it will function. Often times it seems like the help documentation is a couple revs behind the actual software functionality.
  20. https://www.mrs-electronics.com/products/microplex I like the stuff from these guys. It's very customizable... but that also means it requires programming and setup. The microplex stuff has a simpler setup method than some of the other stuff. These you can get into some fairly complex stuff using C programming if you desire. You could also send data from the ECU to something like this and do much more complex logic than you can in the Link.
  21. My understanding is that the hall effect sensors can only be wired 1, correct, way... so yeah that seems odd that mine are inverted unless it's an ej20x thing.
  22. @Adamw are the expected waveforms for the triggers located somewhere in the help file? I'm curious about the cam sensor showing reverse polarity.
  23. No I don't have anything old around. This is actually with the sensor swapped to one I had laying around. In the g4+ there's no way to get scopes on the other cam sensors outside of an oscope correct? Sounds like I need to pop all the covers off and take a look. Also there are 2 different ej20x versions as far as I know. But the only thing that changes sensor wise are the exhaust cam sensors which change from VR to Hall.
  24. At the end of my last track day the car started running very rich, and rough. Connected my laptop i'm getting a ton of LH/Intake errors and a sync error. Prior to this the engine ran great. I'm using a JDM ej20x in my US car with additional wiring added for quad cam control. Attached is my tune and a trigger scope with the engine running. Before VVT cam control starts I'm showing a -30 retard on the LH exhaust cam as well. Trying to figure out if this is a sensor issue or if I skipped several cam teeth or have something else mechanical going on. Trigger Scope Log 2020-09-21 8;48;54 pm.llg LesboRacer EJ20x v3.18.pclr
  25. So I was connected to the Link PnP ECU and the laptop battery died while I was connected. Now when I connect the the ECU the software runs very slowly, update, navigation, etc. As soon as I save and store everything speeds back up and works fine. Any ideas on proper recovery to fix this? I didn't want to try to reflash it just in case something went sideways since I had a scheduled track day. I did un-install and re-install the PCLink software already. No change.
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