barge

The microplex eliminates the software cost but also limits what you can do.... but I would agree the cost of entry is a bit high. I don't want to sell anything here but if anyone needs MRS help I'll do what I can. I'm mostly just a dabbler myself.

Quad AVCS does get a bit sticky on the IO counts. I kept clutch and brake as I use those for flat foot shifting and auto blip. I don't have AC, Tacho, or Wheel speed though so that helps a bunch. I believe I asked the same question a while ago about aux 7/8. I know I used one or both of them... at least i'm 90% without opening up my map. If it lets you assign it that's a good sign that it will function. Often times it seems like the help documentation is a couple revs behind the actual software functionality.

https://www.mrs-electronics.com/products/microplex I like the stuff from these guys. It's very customizable... but that also means it requires programming and setup. The microplex stuff has a simpler setup method than some of the other stuff. These you can get into some fairly complex stuff using C programming if you desire. You could also send data from the ECU to something like this and do much more complex logic than you can in the Link.

My understanding is that the hall effect sensors can only be wired 1, correct, way... so yeah that seems odd that mine are inverted unless it's an ej20x thing.

@Adamw are the expected waveforms for the triggers located somewhere in the help file? I'm curious about the cam sensor showing reverse polarity.

No I don't have anything old around. This is actually with the sensor swapped to one I had laying around. In the g4+ there's no way to get scopes on the other cam sensors outside of an oscope correct? Sounds like I need to pop all the covers off and take a look. Also there are 2 different ej20x versions as far as I know. But the only thing that changes sensor wise are the exhaust cam sensors which change from VR to Hall.

At the end of my last track day the car started running very rich, and rough. Connected my laptop i'm getting a ton of LH/Intake errors and a sync error. Prior to this the engine ran great. I'm using a JDM ej20x in my US car with additional wiring added for quad cam control. Attached is my tune and a trigger scope with the engine running. Before VVT cam control starts I'm showing a -30 retard on the LH exhaust cam as well. Trying to figure out if this is a sensor issue or if I skipped several cam teeth or have something else mechanical going on. Trigger Scope Log 2020-09-21 8;48;54 pm.llg LesboRacer EJ20x v3.18.pclr

So I was connected to the Link PnP ECU and the laptop battery died while I was connected. Now when I connect the the ECU the software runs very slowly, update, navigation, etc. As soon as I save and store everything speeds back up and works fine. Any ideas on proper recovery to fix this? I didn't want to try to reflash it just in case something went sideways since I had a scheduled track day. I did un-install and re-install the PCLink software already. No change.

I read an article once where they did some flow testing on injectors with different mediums and Ethanol flowed 5-8% less than gasoline. I wish the companies making the injectors would do these tests for some of their injectors. Also make sure your fuel pump controller switch points are set properly. You may have to jump to 66 or 100% earlier.

You can't just wire it direct. You need a terminating resistor on the CANbus.

Thanks... those virtual PWMs would be helpful for some of the stuff I'm trying to do.

So over in the G4+ forum AdamW mentioned that the G4X has the capability to receive almost any input over CANbus. I was wondering if more output flexibility was added as well. On the g4+ i was running a canbus controlled fuel pump controller for a time but if I didn't assign a physical output to FP Speed... the CAN output of FPspeed would not function. Are these output assignments becoming more flexible now in regards to CAN? With all the PDM's and CAN devices out there not it's nice to be able to do this kind of stuff fully over CAN.

I did not see that detail in the release notes. That's very cool.

Interesting... I need to change mine back. I was struggling with some oddities using MAP. One issue I found is that cruising/idling/decel MAP values can kind of seem to overlap and blend so I was struggling to get the cams to advance when I really wanted them to. Using throttle position would help in that regard. Although it seems that most intake cam timing on turbo cars is MAP pressure based because it's typically used for boost onset improvements. You'd have to be dependent on RPM only there unless you did some kind of TP vs MAP table but that may get really messy.

You can also look into using a Jaguar XF fuel pump controller. I think stock it's protected with a 30A fuse. Someone tore one apart and all the components are pretty beefy inside. Connector kits are available (If you can't find them I have a bunch) and they take a NPN PWM signal that's typical of standalone ECUs and the Link. One "issue" with the fan controllers on fuel pumps is the failsafe they have that if they lose the PWM signal they'll run 100%. You have to ensure that any time the module has power the ECU will be giving it the off PWM level.

Yes properly terminated should be 60. The only way to maintain that level with these OEM devices is to be able to remove a terimnator somewhere. But regardless it did work even at 30ohm. The 120ohm checks I did were with no connections. Just checking to make sure the terminator is measuring properly at the ecu. Yes I contacted tech support in the US (i'm actually local to US tech support).... however with the Covid restrictions and the track season looking like it's finally going to kick off I've developed a workaround by reading the data via the Dash and then retransmitting back to the Link ECU over the 1mbps bus. This seems to work well in limited testing i've done with it and it will at least get me through until winter when I can do without the car running for the potential repair time.

Did some testing this morning with my PCAN device. CAN2 is neither receiving or transmitting. I'll tear apart the case again and recheck everything. Verified that CAN1 is working fine...data shown in PCANview. I set up my dash stream on CAN2 and no data. I did double check resistance across High/Low on the connector and it's 120ohm at the ECU which would indicate the wiring is good... but like I said i'll verify again.

Another thing I tested... so when I first connected the ABS over a year ago I connected the ABS directly to the ECU on the CAN2. Even when I do this I don't see wheel speeds from the ABS.

This had been working just fine in the past several months. The overnight nature is a little baffling to me. The status shows no errors on the can. All green. But ecumaster shows the bus inactive when the ECU is connected, PCAN shows busheavy. I did check the resistance and found some issues. However it had been working fine even with the extra terminators. I may have an issue with having too many devices with built in terminators that's going to hurt me. There are 2 factory devices that have a resistor...and then the ECU does as well. Is there a jumper or anything that can disable the ECU resistor? Yes I will swap the canbus networks and try using 1 for the 500kbps. I should have thought of that but it's been a frustrating day hah. I will test that in the morning. As I reply to this I may be able to work around the issue by sending the abs data through the dash and use that as a data buffer... But I'd still like to make sure the CAN2 network is still functional.

On my WRX104 PnP ECU I use CAN2 to communicate to the ABS, the DCCD and monitoring of such on my ECUmaster dash is all on a 500kbps bus. Last night this network had no issues. The only item I use from all those devices in wheel speeds in the ECU but it's necessary for a bunch of controls. When I started the car this morning I was getting an ABS error light on my dash. No wheel speeds. If I disconnect the Link physically from the network everything else operates properly. As soon as I connect the ECU the network goes inactive/bus heavy. I see no data if i'm connected with my PCAN to that network. I updated my wiring since my skills have gotten a bit better over the last couple years in hopes that it was just a bad connection or something. No change. I checked the connector off the ecu and resistance is ~120ohm as expected. In the realtime monitor under CAN, CAN2 shows all green, no errors. After spending the day on this i'm a bit baffled and frustrated. I'm not sure how anything could just change overnight unless it was a tune download or something in the meantime. I did flash it to the latest revision. It was one revision old and reflashed the tune and no help. LesboRacer EJ20x v3.03.pclr

I believe the mini pump runs in a default mode as well. I was going to use one before I went with the volvo. I've not seen any concrete CANbus decoding for any of the electric pumps. The problem is that most of the people using them don't have the car they go in to log data streams. I did actually find a logged data stream for a Volvo but then you have to figure out what the steering pump may actually use. Does it just use speed and engine RPM? Does it use Gforce information from the ABS module? Braking Force? Hard to say without hacking into a stock vehicle.... or taking a pump, hooking it up and blasting it will a whole array of messages until it "does something". Glad I could be of help. I have pretty much the same unit but with a Cap on top. FYI I also found a connector pack on ebay for the power and signal connectors. Also note that the "engine running" signal is +12v, high, for the pump to run. And there's a couple second delay on it.

What pump are you looking to use? I'm using a Volvo pump which does have a CAN connection but it runs in a default mode without CAN with just an on signal which on the stock vehicle is an alternator output. I'm using an output that's engine RPM over 500 to trigger the pump on.

Could you just multiply by 10 or 100 in the math channel until they update this in the next version? So that your error would calculate as say 1 for .1 actual error.

I am looking at trying out some higher frequency solenoids that'll do ~100Hz. I'll put a flywheel on that one when I install it. Do the injectors drives have a pullup to 12v? I've got an open injector drive I can use as well. Also... thanks for all the help. This forum really has been the biggest plus/selling point for Link.

I've got the exhaust cam solenoids and sensors wired in and functioning. To get everything to the IO they needed to be I needed to relocate the boost solenoid and a "PS Pump" signal that I use to turn on my electric power steering pump. In relation to those 2 relocations I moved them to ignition drive 5, 6. Do i need a flywheeling diode on a boost solenoid if driven by an ignition output? If so, I believe it would be ideal to locate this at the solenoid connector, correct? I have the ign6 set to be "ON" when below 500RPM (pulled to gnd) and "OFF" when over 500 RPM (which should pull up to 12v?). This doesn't look to be working like it did when connected to AuxOut8. I'm guessing that this either doesn't have a pullup or it's not strong enough. This is just an "engine running" signal that I'm using to start the electric PS Pump. Can I add a pullup to 12v? (recommended resistance?) or should I just put it through a relay?