barge

The very newest Corvettes may use brushless fans but the controller i'm using is for a normal brushed fan. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/917865-mercedes-or-corvette-pwm-cooling-fan-controller-info.html This is a pretty good overview of the controller i'm using. I was able to source the pins for it and reused the connector housing i got with the one i bought.

Seems like most OEM's have very oversized wire on their DBW throttle bodies. Probably to compensate for cheap wire, variances, and all the other fun stuff OEM's consider. I used 20awg for my Hemi throttle body without issue so far.

I am doing the same thing using a Mercedes PWM fan controller. The controller has like 8-10awg wires into it stock so it's rated for some good current. I'm running a 14" spal. The corvette uses the same controller put doesn't have the +12v ign signal which may be better with the link system anyway. If the +12v signal is on and the PWM signal is not valid the fan runs 100%. It's working well so far. The fan PWM does need to be inverted so it's 90% duty cycle to be off and 10% duty cycle to run 100%. With the mercedes unit as mentioned above anything below 10 or over 90 and the fan will run 100% speed. Doesn't really solve the AC issue as I believe most cars don't just bump speed with the AC it usually causes one of the fans to run all the time for airflow over the front core. I think it may almost be better to just have the fun run at 50% minimum if AC is on. Not sure how/if that's doable in the link software scheme though.

Last time I tried it did not but there have been several updates since then. Unfortunately AIM seems to have rapidly moved on to new products and not fixed existing ones. I've been a bit disappointed in them since "upgrading" from an mxl to mxs. I can test it when my car is back up from its winter surgery.

Has AIM finally fixed the multiplexing issue on these so you don't have to use a bunch of streams with a custom CAN config?

Specifically I'm currently running a custom CAN based fuel pump controller. I can send the duty cycle over CAN but if I remove the fuel pump output I lose the duty cycle value. In general expanded ability to map inputs and outputs to CAN would be nice. Radiator fan control, PWM, etc etc. I haven't tried everything yet so i'm sure i've missed some stuff.

I am using the 04usdm STI PnP in my 04 Forrester XT and it's truly PnP. I believe in 05 the Forrester varied from the STI. You'd have to compare the 2 pinouts and move any differences to match. The service manuals are out there if you look.

I tried searching for a howto or something to do PWM Map switching with virtual aux's but I couldn't find too much. I was researching the Motec Diff controller and to match what they do in a basic fashion i'd need. 1 PWM Table for "Accel" - Use this table when not braking 1 PWM Table for "Braking" - Use this table when braking Set to a fixed Freq if the ABS kicks on (DI or CAN) 5% Lock Set to a fixed Freq if the Hand Brake is on (DI) 0% Lock (This one is easy) This this doable with virtual IO and a GP PWM Output? This would be for a subaru 6 Speed transmission with DCCD.

It's been running for a while. It has always dropped comms during a startup. Now that it's cold I'm working on cold start and I'd like to check the trigger levels and such.

Is there any way to supply a regulated 12V to the ECU so that it maintains comms connection during cranking without messing up all the VBatt type compensations in the ECU? Even with a stock size battery I "think" i am getting too much voltage drop during cranking to maintain comms. Unless there is a good method of logging and trigger scoping in the ECU on it's own during a crank I'd like to remain connected during cranking. I've seen some other threads about bad grounds, starter noise, etc. All the grounding is to stock points and there's not much I can do about the factory starter.

https://www.t1racedevelopment.com/product/t1-motorsport-fluid-temp-sensor/ That's the sensor I got but it doesn't use the bosch calibration that's for sure. I used that RaceSpec calibration that you linked to an the temperature looks much better. I didn't even think to look at that part because T1's site specifically says it's a bosch calibration. Thanks for helping me get that straightened out.

Has anyone used one of their fluid temp sensors? I'm using it for Oil Temp and I've installed and wired it to the expansion Temp4 on my 04-06sti PnP ECU. After sitting overnight the temp read 30F vs 48F for the coolant. During driving I'm seeing 145-150F. Ive currently got it set for standard Bosch calibration. I measured the resistance at the pigtaik I've got off the sensor and back to the expansion connector and I'm seeing like 6480 ohm at that cold temp. The ECU value seems to match this. T1 wasn't much help with calibration info. All the Bosch stuff I've seen shows standard Cal's. I'm going to crawl under the car tonight and get a resistance check right at the sensor. Is this an oddball calibration? Do I have a bad sensor? Any help would be appreciated.

That seems to be the main reason people put it after the rails. Really depends on if the 3/8 (I think) lines are a restriction. I'd like to be able to set custom blend ratios for boost maps and such. I don't want those maps to blend 0-100% but I want all the fuel calcs to

Cobb recommends you install the sensor prior to the fuel rails for just this reason. Although I believe the clamp function would be worthwhile.

Keep the forum updated when you do the T1 sensor in the tgv. I've been considering the same thing.

FYI email sent

That helps for now. The signal sheet in the service manual listed it as 12V but I didn't know if it was a command signal or status.

I have a link Subaru PnP V10 for an 04 usdm STI. I'm trying to improve the fuel system by using a better fuel pump controller, or even going CAN bus. In researching this and some other potential changes I've not been able to find any documentation on what are connected to non-"signal" pins. Like 12v signals, sensor power, sensor ground, etc etc. Is there a complete listing on the PnP ECU's pins that could be shared? Currently i'm looking at what would be pin D28, which according to subaru should be some kind switched 12v it looks like.

I switched to these injectors because they're stainless and to handle a bigger turbo with E85. In case anyone else is looking to run them I got injector data (attached) from FIC. I combined this data with the custom flow data i got with the injectors and i've been very happy with how they've worked. Link ECU 1650cc.xlsx

Adam, It's saying that I need a newer version of the software to open this. I redownloaded the latest just to make sure and i'm still getting the same message. I think I understand how to set up the open loop now based off what you've said though.

Does changing the fuel pump mode require you to power cycle the ECU? I didn't do that when I changed it back to 3 step. I'll test it today. The inverted percentage makes a lot more sense now. Thanks for clarifying.

I'm having a, maybe related, issue to this. Subaru STI(04) V10 PnP After seeing this post i changed my switchover points but this got me looking at the fuel pressure more closely. I tried just switching to an open loop mode to maybe bypass this bug but open loop control didn't work at all for me. With it in 33% cells i put in the pump was putting out 67%. I switched back to the 3 speed mode and now it seems to be stuck at 67% and won't change even as I change the switchover points. Barge FP Log 2018-06-11 2;09;16 pm.llg LesboRacer v4.4.pclr

The dummy row at the end didn't work for me. I switched to the multiple streams and that's working fine. Hopefully they fix this issue.

On my v10 Subaru the vvt table has a Y axis of throttle position. The stock Subaru stuff is all load based and I've done some reading that the VE/Fuel Table Y axis and the VVT Y axis should match. In this case changing to MGP on the Y for VVT. Obviously this would require redoing the table maybe using some reference from stock Subaru or doing some calcs. Is there a benefit to leaving it? Benefit to changing it?

That's what that would do... Flicking the switch just has to turn the input off.