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Usav8or's Achievements


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  1. Never mind, after looking into a few things I found that nobody ever properly setup the idle parameters. I'll start there. Thanks
  2. I am having a idle control problem that seems to only show up after and longer drive. Attached are links to the log and pclr file. After a drive that lasted about an hour today we stopped at a stop light and the idle dropped enough to shut the engine off and its been running rough ever since. This is not the first time and it seems to go away after it cools again. Please take a look at the log and see if your seeing something I'm missing, which is very likely. Thanks, https://www.dropbox.com/s/o9r0c10n3y4zcky/Idle Trouble Log.llg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/xw7t36gq85fw1dd/Idle Trouble.pclr?dl=0
  3. Thanks, I have a replacement O2 sensor for bank #1 arriving today. I'll see what I get with that and will check for an air leak while its up. Everything appears to be running fine though. Thanks https://www.dropbox.com/s/o12jrkwzkio9o99/AFR gone wild.llg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/5g18oguau7ov7dt/AFR gone wild.csv?dl=0 So, I've swapped the 2 sensors and the problems follow. #2 goes dead and #1 now indicates an AFR ranging between 45-120. I'm not finding any air leaks either. The new O2 sensor on bank 1 seems to have fixed that problem. Now the one on bank 2 has completely failed and is only heating to 65 degrees. I have 2 more sensors on the way so I'll have a spare. Thanks for the help
  4. Everything is current and up to date. From looking at the logs the problem started yesterday morning in the middle of an idle run. The only thing I can think of is something with the internal lambda controller was changed when I was configuring the CAN settings for the AIM MXS Strada I purchased.
  5. Thanks, the firmware was the updated and most recent version. I re-updated it and it still is giving me an AFR around 50-60, and up to 120. Is it even possible for it to run so lean?
  6. I noticed a couple of weeks ago that my Lambda #1 was not giving any sensor information and the temperature is indicating a constant 32 degrees. Now the #2 Lambda is indicating an AFR around 45-50 at idle. Nothing has been changed in the last couple weeks except for an ECU update. Even then the lambda #2 worked fine. It wasn't until today the it started acting up. Any ideas?
  7. I've been away for a while waiting on new injectors since one of the others was stuck open and domping fuel int the #5 cylinder. Take a look and tell me what you think. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ptbiv1xb1avuxvr/426trigger.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/32sf7rqyb723evl/Trigger Scope Log 2019-04-26 9%3B44%3B47 pm.llg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/wy35qnddopxik1a/Log 2019-04-26 10%3B02%3B02 pm.llg?dl=0
  8. Never mind, my mistake check valve is for the brake booster. I guess I'll be fixing that on Monday. Like I said, their instructions arent the best. Thanks
  9. I guess we'll give this a try. https://www.dropbox.com/s/flg0rs2pgsgywks/4-4-19log1.llg?dl=0 I don't know, the schematic that came with the ITB kit had it there and was otherwise short on details.. Thanks, Jeff
  10. Ok, the MAP has been replaced with the BAP and put a one-way check valve on the MAP sensor hose. The ITB's have been balanced and the idle adjusted so it runs pretty well given that we haven't done a tune on it yet. The new problem we've encountered since these adjustments is it's harder to start and has a tendency to hydrolock after shutting it down. Any idea why? I'd attach a log file, but it's too big apparently. Thanks, Jeff
  11. I may be mistaken. Looking at RHD Engineering's instructions it looks like the vacuum line runs from the #3 cylinder throttle body then T's off to the MAP sensor and the vacuum block. I'll check with my mechanic tomorrow to confirm that's how he set it up.
  12. Good question, I believe its connected to a vacuum manifold block, but I'm not sure.
  13. Could that be caused by the ITB setup that has still to be dialed in/balanced? The MAP sensor is the Link brand 2.5 bar model. Since there wasn't a Link 2.5 Bar listed in the PCLink software I selected the non-branded 2.5 BAR option. Should I use a differect option?
  14. These are not the best shots, but hopefully they'll do. The plan is to do a remote tune and then get to the dyno the next time the tuner is in town. If you have any other suggestions based on this info please let me know. Thanks again, Jeff
  15. Thanks, I was thinking it was a little close too. When running it up o temperature we discovered the new cam seal was leaking on my new engine so we'll be sure make that adjustment during reassembly. We're scheduled with the tuner at the dyno in a couple weeks so I'll post an update then. Thanks for all your help. I'm impressed with the product and support. J
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