Usav8or

I've tried the 22uF capacitor and I'm still having the same problem so I'm looking for the same solution.

The CAN Lambda unit is wired as displayed in the "Preferred" diagram, and the wires are all 18AWG and less than 20" in length. The power source to the relay is the positive power post in the engine bay that's connected directly to the battery in the trunk. There are no other devices on the circuit. Looking at the "Alternative" diagram, does that method eliminate the separate relay for the CAN Lambda, and use the main relay supplying the ECU? Thanks for your help. CAN Lambda Faulting still PC Datalog - 2023-03-22 10;54;20 am.llgx

Hi All, I might be having the same issue. The CAN Lambda is setup using the "Recommended" wiring arrangement without the 22uf capacitor. The sensor will provide a reading at times, then it seems as though you put the project away for a few days and it won't work again on restart. I'm getting 2 error codes. 16 "Heated Too Long" and 33 Open Circuit APE-IPE. If I add the capacitor between the power and ground error code 16 remains and the second error changes to 34 Open Circuit RE-IPE. The O2 sensor came in the kit and is new. The wiring harness is all new, as are the main, fuel pump, and CAN lambda module relays. errors 16 33 PC Datalog - 2023-02-24 8;39;02 am.llgx

Problem solved after some investigation. The BMW s50 cam sensor was changed from a reluctor to a 12v hall effect sensor following a TU. Now it starts and runs at idle. Next up is working out a fuel table. I don't suppose anyone has a fuel table or base map for a BMW s14 they'd like to share. Thanks, Jeff runningTriggerScopeLog.llgx

Thanks for the info. I should have studied that better before I asked.

The Cam sensor is a Hall sensor, and the crank is a reluctor. I've double checked the connections to both and everything checks out fine. However, it doesn't seem like either trigger is getting power during the crank. Is there a setting somewhere that will cut power to the sensors, or should there be a digital input (ignition switch) setup to tell the ecu when the ignition switch is in start or run? We're not using the ECU hold power feature on this build so the ignition switch in DI has been set to "Always on." Should it just be set to "OFF." Attached is the last trigger scope attempt of the day, hopefully I did it right this time. Thanks, Jeff TriggerScopeLoglast2.llgx

Thanks, I’ll have to look at it again in a day or two. I’m not doing something right. Is there a way I can look at the capture after it’s been saved? I’ll also need to get a definitive answer on the construct on the trigger wheel they had made. I suspect it looks like the VAC wheel, but made out of steel and without a magnet, just the 2 missing teeth. Thanks again for your time and assistance.

I'll try this again, and I'll ask about the trigger wheel. Thanks, Jeff TriggerScopeLog888.llgx

Trying to help out a friend this time and were having some issues with getting the crank and cam sensors setup on a BMW S14. Attached is a trigger scope that looks to me like neither sensor is getting much of a signal. Both the Crank and cam triggers are VAC Motorsport products, though the crank trigger wheel was special made elsewhere for some sort of clearance issue with a cover. It is still 36 minus 2, just a slightly smaller diameter. I've had to lower the arming thresholds down to .2 in order for the ECU to pickup a signal. The current setup is a BMW S14 with direct spark ignition (LS4 coils I believe) and OEM injectors. The alternator belt isn't on yet, so its powered externally at this point. I'm not a tuner by trade, but I did successfully get my E30 with an M20 going a few years ago using a G4+ Thunder. Were still in the early stages of configuring the details, but any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks 999.llgx BMW 2002 M2 Configuration.pclx

Thanks again, I haven't been able to check everything yet, but the EGT data and fuel consumption data transferred easily. The GPS speed needed a multiplier of 15 in order to record accurately. The fuel level I'll be watching over the next couple of weeks as I burn some, but it seems to be functioning fine. The Oil temp looks like it needs a multiplier as well. I check into that later. The important data streams I wanted are the speed and fuel, and they are working well. As you suspected, the fuel used can be reset along with the odometers on the counters page. It's pretty slick! I really appreciate your help. Jeff

Thanks, I didn't realize I had it set up on both. CAN2 is the correct one. I've included the corrected and current config files. I appreciate your help. Jeff ECON CRUISE LAMBDA MODE StoichLoopLambda.pclr MXS 1.2 Strada April 2022.zconfig

I'd appreciate some CAN assistance. I'd like to send EGT (x2) and instant fuel consumption data from my ECU to my AIM MXS 1.2 Strada, and then send GPS Speed, oil temperature, fuel level, and fuel and brake pressure data to the ECU. Thanks in advance, Jeff MXS 1.2 Strada May 2022.zconfig ECON CRUISE LAMBDA MODE StoichLoopLambda.pclr

Never mind, after looking into a few things I found that nobody ever properly setup the idle parameters. I'll start there. Thanks

I am having a idle control problem that seems to only show up after and longer drive. Attached are links to the log and pclr file. After a drive that lasted about an hour today we stopped at a stop light and the idle dropped enough to shut the engine off and its been running rough ever since. This is not the first time and it seems to go away after it cools again. Please take a look at the log and see if your seeing something I'm missing, which is very likely. Thanks, https://www.dropbox.com/s/o9r0c10n3y4zcky/Idle Trouble Log.llg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/xw7t36gq85fw1dd/Idle Trouble.pclr?dl=0

Thanks, I have a replacement O2 sensor for bank #1 arriving today. I'll see what I get with that and will check for an air leak while its up. Everything appears to be running fine though. Thanks https://www.dropbox.com/s/o12jrkwzkio9o99/AFR gone wild.llg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/5g18oguau7ov7dt/AFR gone wild.csv?dl=0 So, I've swapped the 2 sensors and the problems follow. #2 goes dead and #1 now indicates an AFR ranging between 45-120. I'm not finding any air leaks either. The new O2 sensor on bank 1 seems to have fixed that problem. Now the one on bank 2 has completely failed and is only heating to 65 degrees. I have 2 more sensors on the way so I'll have a spare. Thanks for the help