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Found 10 results

  1. 91 SW20 MR2 w/ 92k miles on chassis EFI System: -Link G4+ Thunder -1zz COP direct spark -5s 36-2 crank sensor and trigger -Gen 2 3s distributor used for cam sync -BM 2-wire knock sensor -GM 4bar MAP sensor -GM Flex Fuel sensor (modeled fuel mode, dual fuel mapping from E10-E80) Engine: -2.0L forged Gen 2 3sgte block maintaining factory compression -Gen 2 3sgte head with Engle valve springs and GSC S1 (268) cams, adjustable cam gears (E:7deg retard, I:0deg) -Modified ATS straight runner intake manifold -Custom intercooler system utilizing a CSF A2W core -Custom exhaust manifold and downpipe with recirculated Tial MVR 48mm EWG, XonaRotor XR7164 turbo with 0.82 v-banded hotside -3” Berk dual exhaust -ID1700xds injectors supplied with a Walbro 450lph pump -Custom air cooled oil cooler system with Setrab cooler and Mocal oil thermostat, relocated oil filter -IAG universal AOS with three -10 crank case breathers Transmission: -Stock E153 w/ factory LSD -Clutch Masters 725 series twin disk w/ steel flywheel -Drive Shaft Shop axles Car made 495whp/385wft-lbs on a Mustang Dyno on a 95degF day and 70% humidity and a heat soaked IC system (120F IC water temp) because the heat exchangers were being starved of airflow. Boost pressure was on 20psi tapering to 23psi at redline and fuel was E79. It had a lot more steam in it, but I stopped where I did because I didn’t want to exceed 350ftlbs-lbs around natural peak torque and 380ftlbs-lbs closer to redline because it is a 3sgte block prone to fatigue cracking on the cylinder walls. Plan is to run it like this until I build a 5s block with a partial block fill. This car is more wired than a new BMW and the Link ecu is the nervous center for it and handles everything I throw at it. All auxiliary systems that have to do with motor function are controlled by the ecu and I have more sensors on the car than are probably necessary. The IC system alone has 5 temps sensors, one water flow sensor and one level sensor in the reservoir just to give you an idea haha. But I love data and since the Link has access to all of it, I can change how each system functions just by a simple software change.
  2. My plan is to have the Link Fury G4x to manage the MR2 SW20 Power Steering (PS). Let me explain some overview of the MR2 power steering module. The OEM setup of this PS is a separate systems. It has it own ECU to manage the PS motor. The module consist of 1) PS ECU 2) PS hydraulic motor 80ampere 3) PS relay (uses a solid state relay) 4) Steering angle sensor On OEM setup, The PS will operate once the PS ECU receive input from the steering angel sensor (activate after 33 degree angle) and speed sensor. The PS motor will run with 9-11v current with the combination of this condition PS angle sensor reads more than 33 degree; and speed = 0km/h The PS motor will run with 3-5v current with the combination of this conditions: PS angel sensor read more than 33 degree; and Speed = 65km/h To my understanding, this PS module is a electrical run hydraulic systems. The steering angle sensor will determine how much PS oil need to pump according to angle (correct me if i am wrong) when the PS motor runs. My question is, how can I get Link G4x Fury to run the PS motor according to this table: Vehicle speed (km/h) 0 10 20 30 40 50 PS Motor Speed (%) 100 60 50 40 25 0 2. Which Link g4x AUX can manage the OEM relay? Or should I just get other type of relay? 3. Anyone experience running the MR2 PS motor with LINK ECU? Care to share some wiring diagram of your setup? Anything that I should know as a heads up before I embark on this project?
  3. Hello everyone, so i might be overlooking this but what's suppose to be the normal voltage to ecu for PIN 71 +14V?? My tuner told me that my the g4+ plugin was not seeing a good amount of voltage so he had made a jumper wire from the alternator positive post straight into the (B) Pin 71 thus ECU getting 14V, and had continued tuning my car like that. I eventually had to take that jumper wire off bc it would leave the ecu activated and drain the battery even after I would turn off the car bc it's straight powered from the battery. Right now I only see ~12.8V to the ecu. With car on i have 14V at the battery posts and alternator positive post to chassis ground. Battery is in front of the car, positive cable runs through the whole length of the car into the trunk where the fuse box is located. In picture provided, it's 13V at the 15A EFI fuse White/Red Wire to (Batt) Pin 61: 12.8V Black/Yellow to (+B) Pin 71: 12.8V Here's a log that I've recorded, ECU voltage varies bc of loads like lights, signals, fan, etc.. Can someone give me some advice? Log 2019-12-15 4;37;23 pm.llg
  4. Can anyone tell me what knock level gains they used for each cylinder of a 3sgte when using a Bosch 2-wire knock sensor? I have everything else set up, but I would feel more sure about myself if I could verify the values that I came up with. I am a beginner in the tuning aspect of things, but very competent on the electrical and programming side of things. When dialing in the knock level gains, I am not confident that I am adjusting for the noisiest rpm of the motor or if it is actual knock. So I don't want to set my gains to low that a knock event doesn't surpass the threshold. Just for reference this is a Gen 2 3sgte (I will take any information from any revision 3sgte) and the knock sensor is a Bosch Motorsports KS4-P.
  5. Dear All, This post may not be related to tuning but more towards wiring problem but I am hoping that I could get some basic guidelines as I consider myself still new in the arena and still got a lot to learn I am currently using Link G4+ Monsoon on a 3SGTE ST246 engine on my Toyota MR2. Car was running great for the past few months until recently I could not get my car to start. After I did the basic check-up I found that the fuel pressure is '0'. Therefore my focus would definitely be the fuel pump. For your information, the wiring was not done by me but I am now learning to do such wiring myself. My fuel pump is activated from a relay that uses AUX 6 of the Link G4+ Monsoon. I try to run the test using PC Link and can hear the sound of the relay clicking but I don't hear the priming sound from the fuel pump. Then I try to directly run the fuel pump from the battery (12v current) to its connector and I can hear the fuel pump priming. For that, I concur that my fuel pump is working and is not the fuel pump issue itself. Next from the connector that I have disconnected from the fuel pump, I tested it with a multimeter. What I found that there is a current supply of 8v-9v to the fuel pump when the key is ON (after finish the 2-second priming that I have set at Link G4+). When I set at PC Link Software 'test ON' for AUX 6 which is the pump, the current supply becomes 2.8v-3v along with the clicking sound. Picture attached is as per my explanation. Picture #1 8v-9v before TEST ON fuel pump at PC Link Picture #2 2.8v-3v during TEST ON fuel pump at PC Link Next, I try to test all the fuses that I can have my hands on but all the fuse seem okay. As my logic and understanding of wiring, I don't feel its the fuse as there are still current flows to the pump but it just seems that the current is low for the pump to operate. As I mentioned above the wiring was not done by me, therefore, I try my best to detect the wiring with the limited knowledge that I have. I seek the advice here to guide me on how could i further diagnose and solve this issue myself. Your advice and guidance is very much appreciated.
  6. Hi All, I hope someone can clarify something for me. I have a full kit ready to be built in my 91 St185, but have some confusion about connecting the Link 4 Bar map sensor. I think I should swap it with the factory one but... the factory has 2 sensor outputs and a ground (Brown) input, 1 sensor wire goes to ECU PIM pin & Boost Gauge in dash (Red-White), the other to ECU VC pin & AFM and Throttle sensor (Pink-Blue). The explanations for VC and PIM are pretty much the same: - VC: Turbo charging pressure sensor signal - PIM: Signal from the turbo sensor, also drives the boost gauge So if I can replace directly, is the VC the +5V? Or do I disconnect the factory MAP and need the expansion loom to make this work? Hop someone can clear my confusion :s With kind regards, Mystefyer
  7. pat90

    St205 engine fan

    Somebody knows If The oem ecu of Toyota switches The engine fan with 12volt? I have a Link ecu but The link doesnt switch The engine fan. We changed The fan wire to another pin(injector6) in The connector en in The ecu changed settings but with no succes, If we put 12V in The pin The fans start running, I think we must couple a relay to iT to switch. I think iT a little strange for such expensive ecu that this not works Like oem?
  8. Hi guys, I'm Mark, a new member of the Link forums. I purchased an old ST185 Celica GT-Four with a matching Link pulg in ECU of a similar era (early 1990's. Its been a steep learing curve to get the car running again, having been parked up for 13 years. I'm trying to identify which model Link unit it is and to find out if it will talk to a laptop. I have the led display hand controller but that only allows access to limited functions and is not ideal for displaying data on the fly. I have detonation problems at higher throttle settings and on boost. Tried pulling back maximum advance with minimal effect. Tried increasing master fuel a little with little effect. Perhaps its as simple as increasing fuel at higher throttle positions to allow for fuel supply as the boost increases. I'm installing a new fuel pump to make sure there are no fuel starvation issues that may be causing lean-ness. Inj / Oxy display tells me injector capacity and in theory the mixture but I'm struggling to make sense of the oxy display. It ranges 0 to numbers in the 90's but I'm not sure what the units are and what they mean. What units is this measured in (I expected 0-1.0 volt as a measure of air/fuel ratio). Any comments or assistance would be appreciated. Mark
  9. Hi all, I've just started looking into tuning with my G4+. This is my first shot at tuning and the car will almost exclusively be driven on the street. I've been slowly working my way around various functions and getting a feel for what they do and how my car responds. I've been gradually going through some of the HP Academy webinars but still feel like quite a noob! A few details about the car. - 98RON Petrol exclusively. - Walbro 255 fuel pump - CT26/GT35 hybrid (yes I know....) - 540cc Toyota injectors - 3SGE (NA) cams - 1ZZ COPs via an external converter box (Was operating this way on the factory ECU. Will be wired directly eventually) - High flow CAT I'm after any advice on the particular setup, but in particular I'm looking at some help trying to narrow down a low rpm hesitation. It feels like I have very little torque around 1000-2500 rpm. This has pretty much always been the case with the factory ECU and the stupidly oversized/restricted turbo in it, but this I think still comes down to tuning. There are probably a whole heap of things that need to be changed on the attached map. Some may have been tweaked in isolation. Also, does anyone know if the 3SGTE factory knock sensor is able to be setup in the PnP G4+? low_rpm_stutter_3.llg MR2_Modified_Tune_v3.pclr
  10. Hi Everyone, New To The Site But Have Searched For A Map And No one has ever Asked So I Thought I Would im Doing A ST202 Celica Repower and I Have A Link G4+ Storm and Before i Go To Butcher The St204 Map To Work im Wondering If Anyone has a Standard Base Map For One? Cheers In Advance
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