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Found 10 results

  1. Hi, I'm having some issues with DBW closed loop idle control. It's not happy with closed loop on. Open loop works fine, not perfect but okay. Wanted to try and run closed loop. As far as PID for the DBW, I think It's in reasonable range, and close to target. But could do better i think? Can I get some help on how I can make this work better? Current setup is Bosch Motorsport 68mm DBW, Mitsubishi 4G93 engine, Link FuryX. Here's the onedrive for the logs and tune. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Al7C1wyXCi4aqnBFnz3bmIYzeMDn?e=hIRxqA Thanks appreciate the help
  2. Offoluke

    Start up timing

    Hi there, I have a link atom X on my citroen c2 1.6 vts. It is running individual throttle bodies and is therefore mapped using alpha n. When the car is initially started it runs some strange timing settings in the background for around 4 seconds and only idles at 500rpm. After 4 seconds it switches to the table in the map and idles fine at around 950rpm. I have been informed by my tuner that this is something built into the firmware. I would like to know if there is some way of making the ecu run the timing table in the map straight away so it fires up and idles correctly instantly? Just for extra info the car is using an aftermarket crank sensor for the link ecu because the OEM one wouldn't pick up the first tooth and was therefore useless. Also the car has no idle control in terms of air control so idle control is achieved through timing at all temperature ranges. Thankyou for any help that you can provide!
  3. Hi, I have a 1998 Toyota Altezza with a TALTX plug and play ECU installed. My tuner and I are chasing a problem with my throttle body - at idle (at operating temperatures), we have it set so that the target tps is 1.8% and the target RPM's to be 850RPM. Every so often, I would come to a stop light, clutch in and notice my idle sitting higher than it is supposed to, and the tps% is sitting at something higher like 2.2-2.8%. When I blip the throttle, sometimes it goes down to 1.8ish where it is supposed to be and the idle comes down, sometimes it goes to another value in the ballpark of 2.2-2.8% and keep idling high. I also powered on my ECU without firing up the engine, put the e-throttle to "run mode" manually and inspected the behavior when the e-throttle is not running - the tps main and sub voltages would vary by ~0.05V or so each time I blip the throttle or even go on and off it gently,and the tps% also having some variance anywhere from 1.4% to 3.8%, which is worse than when the motor is running... So far I've verified that my reference power to the TPS and APS is always stable at 4.95V, I have re-calibrated APS and TPS, verified that the voltages of each sensor (TPS and APS, main and sub) is within spec of what toyota asks for at the rest and full position of the pedal, tried a brand new NTK TPS, tried replacing the whole throttle body from a donor motor. The altezza's "e-throttle" is unique (and a pain) where it is something like 60% mechanical for a fail-safe to be able to limp the car to a shop upon e-throttle control failure... I've set the mechanical throttle plate set screw so that the plate is at 1.5% tps when the dbw motor is powered down, and verified that my car can idle happily with that 1.5% by turning the e-throttle in the software OFF and firing up the car. (Weird thing is that this 1.5% TPS reading with the e-throttle OFF is ALWAYS consistent down to the decimal place... ) This issue causes some rev hang at times too, and is small yet annoying. My question is, on a dbw setup like this, how accurate should be the tps% when my foot is off the gas? Is it supposed to go back smack on 1.8% which I have it set at, or is it natural to have ~0.5% variance in the "off throttle" or 0% APS position? Could this be a tune issue? I will post my setup file in a bit when I am home, and try to get a data log that demonstrates this behavior. Any input will be appreciated, thank you in advance.
  4. I'm have some idle issues and need helping figuring them out. Not sure if they're related. At idle, turning the steering wheeling causes an unusually high increase in revs. Turning the AC on causes a high increase revs and the AC generally doesn't work. I installed a new IAC to rule that out and don't seem to have vacuum leaks. Map attached for reference. Any help would be greatly appreciated. autolove-evo9-backup.pclx
  5. Thanks to alot of help from Vaughan and Adamw I was able to get the car running and to the tuner but I'm having some idle issues and could use some help. I know from past experiences that tuning on a dyno rarely addresses low rpm drivability and idle, not to mention when I took it in I still had a hardware issue with my IACV so its no fault on the tune shop. when I got the car back it had a hard time on cold starts, sometimes taking 2-3 minutes of cranking before starting. figured this had to do with the IAC problem so I waited until the new valve showed up before thinking too much of it. I installed the new valve and copied all the idle control data from the WRX V7 tune because thats what the tbody and IACV came off. the tune seemed to work but not well. I kept dealing with erratic idle speeds and still had trouble on cold starts. I made some changes to the idle tables and it got more stable but I still have an extended crank 20-30sec. and after it start the idle seems to move around and surge sometimes. here is a log of todays cold start and complete warm up along with trigger scopes during cold crank and running after warm up and the tune. any help would be great. PC Datalog - 2021-07-13 11;39;14 am warm up.llgx cold start.llgx warm up.llgx 1968 volvo 122s b20 tuned IAC 800rpm hot target.pclx
  6. Hi Everyone. I am experiencing some trouble with my ignition setup on my M50B29 Vanos engine with Link G4 with V4.10.2 firmware from 2014. Background: The car was initially built in 2011 with a M50B28 non vanos engine with pretty sporty cat cams and have been working fine until I totally rebuilt the engine to a hybrid M50B29 with a vanos unit mounted on an non vanos head to get 7mm valve shafts. head also have dual intake cams from M54 and M50, M54 on intake and M50 on exhaust. This to make the engine a little more calm on low revs. I experienced some troubles with the previous setup with the cat cams on low revs and was struggling with a calm idle. We solved that with ignition idle control. This setup worked like a charm with the old setup and i had no problems with emission tests on our yearly vehicle controls in Sweden. Engine has a Innovative LC1 for lambda adjustments. This is when i noticed there is something wrong with the ignition. Changed all the ignition parts, trigger sensor with new wiring, new plugs (NGK BPR7ES), new NGK Coils and wiring to the ECU, checked the ignition timing again, measured the cam positions. Problem: Engine is starting and running fine, ignition timing is strobed and zeroed with the ignition idle control disabled. But still when i was driving the car I noticed it was running warmer than usual. I managed to get the car trough the emission test with ignition set to 3 degrees and later on noticed that the idle ignition control function was active again even so i disabled it. So I have strobed the ignition, disabled the idle control and still it re-activates and causing problems and the TDC seams to have a life of it´s own changing around. Since this problems accrued the vanos is not activated. Engine Specs: M50 cast block, M50 non vanos head with vanos unit mounted Forged rods and pistons M54 intake cam on intake, M50 intake cam on exhaust. Standard intake 2200cc injectors with nuke rail and fuel pressure regulator Custom exhaust manifold with a Borg Warner S369SX-E Someone have any ideas or have faced the same problems? All suggestions are welcome! if there is any further information you need please don´t hesitate to ask! Best Regards, Fredrik Östman
  7. Hello! I´ve been having issues with my idle on my 4g63 (eclipse 1993) So I´ve been working with the ISC on closed loop, I have the RPM lockout higher than my targets and for the most part it seems fine however every once in a while it falls under 800rpm and normally stalls if I dont hit the gas pedal, I´ve changed all the setting the AFR is stable doesnt fluctuate however it always seems to have the same problem. the logs are atatched the stall is almost at the end idle stall.llg
  8. As the title, i installed a link g4 plugin on a completely stock 3SGE and set up the throttle sensors for the ethrottle. I am using the stock MAF on the basemap included in the tuning software. The throttle sensors and MAF sensors make logical sense, which has got me confused as to why the car wont idle. It will start up, and can rev a little bit, but when you get off the accelerator, the car stalls. Tune file attached. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. 002 system.pclr
  9. Installing a Fury ECU to a 1997 VW GOLF VR6 12v Turbo . The Throttle body is a Cable operated type but with DBW Idle control. It has 2 position tracks , 1 for TPS and 1 for Idle motor position , There is also an idle switch wire that could be used. Has anyone configured a link Fury to run this type of Throttle body ? Can it even run this TB ? I would really like to try and get it to work as the early 1.8t 20v AGU engines use the same style TB. Cheers Jim VR6 Golf 1997.pdf
  10. I’ve had a bit of experience working with several G4+ installations now. Something I have noticed is that there are things going on within the ecu that are not documented. An example of this would be the closed loop idle control, you get a certain amount of idle valve opening when the throttle is opened and you exit idle control. I'm guessing this is some sort of dashpot function however there is no mention of it in the user documentation. For lack of a more detailed explanation, and having worked with different stand alone and OEM engine management systems over the years, empirically the G4 runs the engine very well, much better than many other other stand alone engine management systems I’ve used. Yet the user interface is fairly basic which, besides the idle valve adder that I mention, leads me to believe there are other routines besides the idle control that are not documented. This would not be new within the standalone ecu market, as the old APEXi PowerFC’s had a lot of the control routines and related calibration parameters hidden and undocumented. I guess the philosophy could be that the manufacture figures reducing the amount of accessible calibration areas will make the tuning process more straight forward, which will also result in less customer support issues/costs. I would argue that it is a disadvantage, especially to experienced tuners that this information is not documented. I think it would be reasonable to ask Link to at least document these routines even if they are not accessible or editable to the end user within PCLink. It would also be an advantage to end users/dealers who request additional features withing the G4+ ecu. - Chris
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