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  1. Good afternoon, I have attached two calibration files along with two log files and two trigger scopes, One being just the base map with the stock trigger wheel and the others with the updated file, trigger pick up and the AEM 24/1 wheel.Link monson with a patch harness built in house( checked wiring about 20 times for the jumper) I should add this isnt our first link set up on a s14 ka24de, Last time we used a s15 pnp For starters car came in non running, with a JWT ecu and the maf wiring wired backwards shoving 12v into the 5v output. after dealing with and diagnosing that the car still ran just had a terrible stumble at idle and would stall when stopping, The customer wanted to upgrade to link any ways so here we are. Im going to add the car with the JWT ecu kept popping up a cas sync issue of some sort( I dont exactly remember the code but we were using nissan consult). This may come into affect later who knows. Lets fast forward to a few days ago, the car has some weird trigger issue where it will only pick up some times and be very inconsistent so we cant even go further to set trigger offsets. See attached logs. We have checked power and ground, Checked power and ground at CAS/DIST while cranking to check for voltage drops. came back 12.8v . We have re wired the trigger 1,2 directly to the ecu Due to the factory harness was extended to wire tuck and we found the factory trigger wiring to be extended with no shielded ground. we even swapped to a aem trigger disc with the same issues arising, Kinda lost here. Pc link and firmware is up to date, Jerry Taylor base map KAT rev2.pclx Jerry Taylor base map KAT rev2.pclx with aem trigger disc.pclx jerry taylor log file with drill.llgx Second time.llgx PC Datalog - 2021-10-30 7;33;39 pm aem disc.llgx TriggerScopeLog 2.llgx TriggerScopeLog aem disc.llgx
  2. Hi I need help I have wired in a ECU Master CAN to LAMBDA into the ECU but I am struggling to get the find it on the Link G4+ software, I have tried all the CAN ID's I could find on the internet but still no luck. I am selecting the wrong information please see attached screen shot
  3. Dang24

    Mx5 Varible tps

    Hi, I'm looking to have the mx5 plug and play ecu installed in the next few weeks, but not sure if it needs to have a variable throttle position sensor or would work better with one? I know other ecu with require one, and wanted to check first. Cheers.
  4. Hi There, I have the Link MXS Strada dash in my s15 and I am having some dramas with the auto dim feature on the dash. it seems as though the sensor is not picking up much ambient light in the car as it has dark tint and small windows along with the screen shade to limit glare. I have already sett the threshold to 20% however it is dimming the screen when it is much too bright still. Is there a way to facotr the luminoscity sensor's scale? Or will this need to be a firmware thing from AIM? To be honest it used to be fantastic when i first installed it but since the last few firmware updates it has not been as good with the auto dim function. Any thoughts or suggestions would be great Cheers, Trento
  5. Bunchy1995

    VH45 Base Map

    Hi All. Is there anyone that has a base fuel and ignition maps for a VH45, just need something to fill in the tables before i put it on the dyno and get it tuned (need maps to get the car idling nicely) If it helps, here is the setup. Cheers
  6. I wanted to ask someone who knows more about barometric pressure sensors for atmospheric tuning. I like to take my car in higher altitudes and although it may not affect too much, i have a lot of open channels and my racepak dash can display barometers so i figure why not just add one. I will be running a map sensor and AIT sensor on my sr20. Any thoughts on routing lines for the sensor. thank you
  7. So I'm currently wiring in a g4+ extreme into a jza80 / jzx110 1jzgte. The easy stuff is done. Power in Ground Earths Injectors Sensors Vvti I have a few questions regarding different subjects. 1.The only wire I can find for a/c is a/c lock out? 2.I currently have standard coils with the original ignitor. How is this wired into the extreme? 3.the charge light needs to be connected to 14v to allow the system to charge is it best connected to the link ecu 14v? 4.can I run an external boost /coolant gauge as outputs from link? Last question does anyone know what this is? It's connected to cam, crank and o2 sensors @Adamw @Simon
  8. hello guys im fitting g4 on my 1jz vvti engine , i change the injectors to 2jz vvti , i have boost solenoid, new big turbo, new headers, new west-gate so can you help me with a base map for this setup. thanx
  9. Hi Guys, i have a 2JZ-GTE swapped Altezza running a Link G4+ Fury and i am looking to run an MR2 electric power steering pump. i have talked to my certifier and he will not allow it to be directly plugged into a power supply as it must go through a 'controller' so that the pump is in a 'controlled environment'. which after some reading is it possible to use my Fury to control this in any way? obviously my gearbox speed sensor is plugged into the ecu aswell as my seperate sensors on my wheels, would the link fury pick this up and be able to control the pump? hopefully this helps. Cheers Mike
  10. Hey guys, I'm starting up my first topic on this forum because I've run into some problems with my sr. Earlier this year my car broke down (2 rocker arms snapped) I fixed it by replacing rocker arms and camshafts. After the repair i took the car for a test drive and as soon as i get full boost it feels like the engine is just cutting out, This only happens att 3900rpm at all gears no matter how much throttle I use. Has anyone had the same problem? I'll post my logg down bellow. Cheers. s14 logg.llg
  11. Hello Guys, Im new to the Forum I got couple questions for the PRO's In this room > I have a 2JZ VVTI Customized Engine ( A to Z ) 3.4 L I have 2 MAPS im going to attach, Both are working perfect, Lucky for the 2jz vvti Car owners, They can use my map's ( Im Not responsible about any damage to you car ) Ok I tuned my car in 2 different Engineers And im not sure which one is right, both tuned the car Ignition and fuel table, I need to make sure the value's Of the Ignition and fuel are correct. I have the following setup 750 cc Bosh Injectors with 4 Bar Fuel Pressure Single Turbo dual bearing set at 1.8 BAR starts @ 2500 RPM Using 98 Octane Fuel Off course the biggest intercooler , AKS dump valve , External WAsteGate, MONSON ECU Appreciate Your thoughts and advice the car is running great but not perfect, i know there is something wrong with the ignition and fuel Holding the car power back, i know i can get much more power Of such engine I set my AFR to 13.7 2jz-1.pclr 2jz-1-extreme.pclr
  12. Hello chaps I’m having some issues connecting my extreme ecu with my race technology dash 2 display. I have the link canser lead so I can connect the ecu into my laptop and open the PC link software, change the CAN settings and apply the settings to transmit to my Dash 2. I also have a Race technology CAN interface lead which is Pre programmed for the Link G4+ ecu’s. So when I connect the Canser lead in and connect to the RT CAN interface lead it won’t connect to my ecu or dash 2. So I’m assuming that the serial connector on the canser and the serial connector pins don’t mate up? Or that I’m missing somthing else Any help wuld be great so eat so I can read my ecu settings on my dash 2!! Thanks
  13. Hi All, I've got my car in for mapping, the mapper says that the VVTI system is unresponsive, yet the engine builder says that the VVTI was operating before the new engine was fitted in my car. The mapper can see the solonoid and the cam position sensor but the VVTI is unresponsive? They aren't sure what to try, as the chap that built the engine said both the solonoid and oil channel is fine in the engine, and it was functioning prior to the link being used. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks.
  14. sama

    Help with can setup

    Hi everybody, sorry I didn't provide serial number but I don't have the number near, I will edit such information tomorrow. i have just installed a G4+ on a Toyota Celica built for circuit racing and the car has the Bosch Motorsports ABS system which has the ability to share some information via CAN, I need to setup the 4 wheel speed to be able to start playing with the both the boost by speed and at the same time with traction control, I got some help with the people over at Bosch and got this information, I will be trying to set it up tomorrow, but they ask me something that I don't have a clue as this is my first time setting up a Link ecu. This is what I got: Stream 1 -> single frame only: "add parameters" for a total of four parameters: Parameter = LF Wheel Speed Start position = 0 Width = 16 Byte order = LS First Type = Unsigned Multiplier = 45 Divider = 8 Offset = 0 Parameter = RF Wheel Speed Start position = 16 width/byte/type/multiplier/divider/offset = same as above Parameter = LR Wheel Speed Start position = 32 width/byte/type/multiplier/divider/offset = same as above Parameter = RR Wheel Speed Start position = 48 width/byte/type/multiplier/divider/offset = same as above If you have a problem with the units translating incorrectly, it's most likely because of the multiplier and divider. I don't know what the Link ECU uses for units - m/s, km/h, km/min, etc... You might have to check with Link for the unit translation. Thanks all for your help! Sama
  15. i have a suzuki swift gti 1300 1991 year and we put distrubtor of a toyota starlet gt that have sensor for camshaft and crank sensor. when we try to ignition lock and make the correct degrees i lock it, when i try to start the car again the degrees changes alone without doing anything and everytime the degrees changes and not the same way...one time alot other time less
  16. Hi there I have some throttle map issues i would like looking an by an expert to see if they look correct. My car got mapped around 3 months ago, its a 3uzfe 4.3L Lexus V8 on Link G4+ extreme using factory lexus e-throttle controlled by the Link. I've never been entirely happy with happy the throttle was mapped as for example, if i wanted to go wide open throttle, i never felt like the pedal needed to go past 75% as it already felt like wide open throttle, but i persevered and learned to use it that way. 3 days ago i had my first drift day, and i kept getting throttle faults and my e throttle relay would shut down all together, unfortunately being stranded in the middle of the track i didn't save / memorise the codes, and didn't take a data log either! I took my car back to my tuner yesterday and asked him to have a look through my throttle map as i presumed something was wrong, he made a few changes and made it 100times worse, so i've sort of lost my faith with his throttle mapping capabilities.. So, long story short, i took the car away, got my laptop out, went down a long country lane and played with my PIDS and throttle map tables until i felt like i had the pedal i should have, and so far no faults either which is good The first map i've attached is my tuners throttle map (MGT map, agg throttle) , the second is my own throttle map (MGT map, self tuned throttle target good) Can someone look at the 10% AP and 20%AP range and tell me if what hes done is stupid or am i not reading it correctly.. It progressively opens the actually throttle body as RPM increases, but not as AP position increases... basically meaning the car would accelerate without actually adding any more throttle pedal position?! that seems daft.. so the second map is my own attempt at a throttle target table and the pedal feels how you would expect when driving a car Many thanks for looking, any feedback would be great! MGT map, agg throttle.pclr MGT map, self tuned throttle target good.pclr
  17. Hi all, new link owner but unable to get it to connect to PCLink. ECU Link G4+ R34 GTT Error: "Unable to connect to the ECU but USB connection is present. Please cycle the power to the ECU." Checked in device manager and am able to see the Link on COM port 5. if i pull the USB plug out it disappears from list when ignition is on there is a green led that lights up on the ECU i can see through a screw hole. attached are the voltages seen at each Pin when Ignition is on. any more information required please let me know.
  18. I apologize in advance if my issue, or anything I did sounds or is a little... novice. ( That's because I am just that, a novice ). Upon purchasing my MR2LINKv1 Plug n Play and installing I decided to order a Can Lambda. It came with a quick start guide, the 4.9 Sensor + a DT Connector/pin set, a field installable connector and a CAN to PCB cable. A trusted friend told me to forego using the installable connector and to use a different connector as I'd only be using the CAN L and CAN H signal wires. I attached the cable to my ecu board and identified the can L and can H wires ( i think ), built the DT connector with CAN L and CAN H at pin 3 and 4 respectively and setup a relay as instructed in the quick start guide ( http://dealers.linkecu.com/site/SB_Template_One/css/CAN Lambda Quick Start II.pdf ) The relay is indeed providing the can lambda power but I can't get the ecu to recognize the device. I'm using these programming instructions. Programming Instructions: 1. Navigate to ECU Controls > CAN Setup. 2. In the 'Mode' tab ensure the appropriate CAN Module is selected. 3. In the CAN Configuration box: 1. Set the mode to 'User Defined'. 2. Ensure the Bit Rate is set to '1 Mbit/s' 4. In the Data box: 1. Select a free channel and set its Mode to 'Link CAN-Lambda'. 2. In the CAN ID box, set the ID to 950, leave the format on 'Normal'. 5. Switch to the CAN Devices Tab. 6. Connect a Link CAN-Lambda module to the CAN Bus you selected in step 2. 7. Press the 'Find Devices' button. 8. One or more devices should appear in the list, if they do not go back to one and check your settings, check your CAN Bus and ensure that the device is receiving power. Any ideas on why I'm not getting the device to be discovered? I'm suspecting something is wrong with my CAN Bus wiring. Thanks again.
  19. Hello. i own a 2002 Wrx fitted with USDM sti engine and cable throttle body. At the moment it has an old AEM S1plugin and the AVCS and cam sensors are wired into it.I bought the Link G4 plugin for the car. my question is, where can I find the pinout for the car? I did look inside the pc-link software but it doesn’t show all the pins. Also do you know any shop that can help setting it up and make me a basemap online? Very hard to find tuners in South Florida for the great Link. thanks for any input.
  20. Hi all, I have a 1994 MX5 supercharged with a 'MiataLink', which as I understand it is based on the G1 Link ECU. These use a custom air temp sensor which modulates a signal based on temperature (Pulse Width Modulated, PWM). My sensor has appeared to have failed and thought I'd ask here on the slim chance that a) Link has any in stock b. someone has one sitting in their shed? Cheers
  21. Hi All, hope someone is able to help me out. The project is a Nissan GTiR, Link LEM 3G. I wanted to switch to direct spark so got the following cbr 600 coil-on plugs Plug that fit into the above MSD DIS 4 The car runs find under light load. The problem I am having is a misfire under load. What I have found is that the larger the dwell number the worse the misfire. I read that dwell had no effect when running CDI ? When running 0.5ms I get a small missfire over 5000RPM over 14PSI The more I turn up the dwell upto 4ms the sooner ( Less load ) the misfire happens The Spark time is 1ms Anyone any any advise ? Thanks
  22. I've had an E36 with a 5.7 LS1 in it for about a month now (terrific fun, I'm not dead yet either!) Got a few questions pertaining to the management- it runs a Link G4 Storm. It looks like it was setup by someone who possibly had an inkling of what they were doing, but... at the same time, it wasn't very well done. Niggles are as follows... 1) no Lamdas or wideband fitted. I'd like to fit a wideband setup- what's recommended for an LS1? 2) the tacho, when connected, was jumping all over the show. I'd like to think this was because I was trailing the wire right over the HT leads at the time, causing it to bounce about... I'll try again in the morning and we'll see what the deal is. Unless you can't use a stock E36 tacho wire with a Link G4 Storm..? Any light to be shed on this would be great. 3) the coolant temp sensor refuses to read above 52ºC... guessing the sensor is goosed, or incorrectly specified? Thanks in advance.
  23. Reece13

    SR20DET safe map

    Hi all, I have recently converted my s13 from a ca18det to an s15 sr20det and have had my link atom g4 off my old motor wired in to the new one. I have the base map for an sr20det vct uploaded to the ecu which was included with the software so I am wondering, is it safe to drive the car around before I get a tune? I need to organise to get my exhaust brackets modified before my tune and figured it would be easier to drive my car to a place since theres one around 10 minutes from my house. Engine mods are fairly stock besides an aftermarket turbo (running stock psi), exhaust, intercooler etc. I have calibrated the map sensor and will be going over to make sure all the outputs and what not are correct with how the ecu was wired in.
  24. Hi There, I am trying to log my ADM S15's vehicle speed using the ECU logging, however when i use the LR wheel speed (DI5) sensor input it comes up with 0. My speedo and everything works with no issues but it seems as though the ECU cannot read my vehicle speed? I have also tried logging using the laptop reading every sensor and all of the listed vehicle speed sensors had no readings. Any suggestions? as this limits some of the gear specific mapping and traction control functions i'd like to look into. Cheers
  25. Hi all, I was originally going to buy a d-jetro power fc for rps13 180x running a s2 sr20det non vvl, but i came to my senses and brought a link g4+ plug in from NZEFI, unfortunately i sold my ecu and have not been able to find another as they aren't for sale separately from engine packages, My question is are there any other nissan ecu cases that will fit my link into, i see on trademe there is a rb25det manual turbo case for sale which i plan to purchase if the header plug is the same width and length, any other suggestions, i have asked around tuning shops but they give them back to the owners and wreckers wont hold onto ecu that old thanks in advance
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