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Found 15 results

  1. I have a 4age 20v Blacktop Toyota engine in a mk1 MR2. The engine was installed with a harness from WireGap and plugs into the factory Blacktop ECU just like a factory loom. Runs great. Wife got me a brand new Monsoon for Christmas (I hinted it might be appreciated) and I'm now planning to do coil-on-plugs imminently, and maybe supercharge a couple (3-6) pounds in the future. I'd like to get the ECU up and running sooner though. I need to make a translation pigtail from the "factory" Blacktop harness to the Link Monsoon. Is there a convenient wiring diagram for this someone could share, along with any special notes for configuration (fixed timing advance for first startup, VVT recommendations etc.)?I need a knock sensor. Do I need the Link knock light system, or is the knock sensor itself enough for this? (I'm going to datalog every trip and do nerd science with the data)I need a wideband o2 sensor. I think I need the Link/Bosch CAN lambda sensor (for the extra data), or can the Monsoon read the Bosch LSU4.9 sensor natively?Additionally, any general guidance on a 4age 20v Blacktop would be appreciated. I'm new to tuning, but have been (1) reading forums nonstop for months, (2) watching High Performance Academy instructionals, (3) reading Performance Fuel Injection Systems and (4) working on cars for 15 years. I plan on carefully proceeding to attempt road/track tuning and supplementing my experience with Dyno time for that perfect edge, hopefully after I've achieved a passable tune manually. If I suck at this I'll just go pay the dyno guy to do it for me, but I really want to learn it myself ;-). I need to order a Link A pigtail and a 20v ECU socket to get the harness patched across. This will be a project that unfolds over the coming months. I look forward to learning Link!
  2. Thanks to alot of help from Vaughan and Adamw I was able to get the car running and to the tuner but I'm having some idle issues and could use some help. I know from past experiences that tuning on a dyno rarely addresses low rpm drivability and idle, not to mention when I took it in I still had a hardware issue with my IACV so its no fault on the tune shop. when I got the car back it had a hard time on cold starts, sometimes taking 2-3 minutes of cranking before starting. figured this had to do with the IAC problem so I waited until the new valve showed up before thinking too much of it. I installed the new valve and copied all the idle control data from the WRX V7 tune because thats what the tbody and IACV came off. the tune seemed to work but not well. I kept dealing with erratic idle speeds and still had trouble on cold starts. I made some changes to the idle tables and it got more stable but I still have an extended crank 20-30sec. and after it start the idle seems to move around and surge sometimes. here is a log of todays cold start and complete warm up along with trigger scopes during cold crank and running after warm up and the tune. any help would be great. PC Datalog - 2021-07-13 11;39;14 am warm up.llgx cold start.llgx warm up.llgx 1968 volvo 122s b20 tuned IAC 800rpm hot target.pclx
  3. I haven't been able to figure out if it is possible to use a knock sensor on a link monsoon. I know you can use the Digital Inputs for a 2nd cam sensor, so that's what made me think it could be done.
  4. Does anyone have a k24 on a Link Monsoon? If so, could you post a picture or explain your installer I/O table? Thank you, Ryan
  5. Greetings, Kindly requesting help in connecting vvti to link monsoon, and a base map for 2jz ge vvti if possible, addtionally how can I test if the coil is rising edge of falling edge. Thank you
  6. Hey! Just finished wiring up my G4X Monsoon for my Series 4 13B on my FC RX7. Wiring was very straightforward and I made sure to double check all the leads going to the ECU through many continuity tests to ensure that I had a strong signal through the I/O. It is important to note that my battery is fairly drained and I’ve been testing this out by jumping it with my other car. I have hooked up the TPS, Injectors, Idle Air Control (BAC valve), injectors, ignition coils, internal MAP, Wideband, and CAS. I currently do not have a CLT and IAT hooked up but that’s irrelevant to this (or I think so). I have configured by CAS accordingly to the help guide in the PC Link software alongside with all my other sensors. I’m using the S6 basemap as a canvas for my basemap. When cranking my engine I have a solid connection through trigger 2 at all times which is great but it picks up trigger 1 for a split second and will give me an RPM reading then shuts right off, increasing my trig 1 error count as I crank. Any help would be appreciated, thanks! Video:
  7. Hey Guys, hopefully have this post in the right spot... but am Currently have my 4age 20v wired up to a G4+ link monsoon with COP setup. And am after a base map tune that will be able to start and successfully run the engine until I can get it properly tuned. Any help will be appreciated! Cheers, Kurt
  8. Just switched out my g1 ecu for a monsoon on my ej20g powered sandrail. Wanted to know if I could use the same cam and crank trigger wheels or do I need new ones
  9. hi we have a customer with a Link Monsoon, and is using the Life Racing / Syvecs calibration switch / rotary switch. We are using AN VOLT 1 for the cal switch (as 5v) We can configure the switch and assign it to go where we need it to so to do its intended job (boost tables) but as we move from position 1 - 10, we only get a very small voltage change, and no ammount of fiddling with voltages gives a wide enough range. We have been told we need to use pull up resistors in the wiring, and apparently this is a very common cal switch that is used. so must have been done plenty of times. does anyone have a drawing / diagram of how they have wired one of these up please ? thanks in advance
  10. Hi all After so many years with my lem g3 I may be thinking of selling it (open to offers in fact:) ) and upgrading to g4+ monsoon or storm as I need sone more Digital Inputs for now. My only concern is the aux, now on the g3 there are 8 and if I remember correctly when I use the only DI I can't use aux 4, in total I need 6 so monsoon covers me (6 in total) but is there any conflicting aux with di in monsoon as there was in g3? Thanks
  11. I have link monsoon with 4 bar map internal sensor , i have a problem with its readings , it reads on idle 4.4 psi and when i start to move it increases to 17 psi , btw my boost solonoid adjusted to max 12 psi, 1- I’m connecting a seprated vacum line direct from the intake manifold to the ecu 2- calibrated on zero rpm 3- connecting on analogue volt 5 thanks in advance :)
  12. Hey guys I've just been searching on this and can't seem to find my answer... I have been road tuning with my KnockBlock G4+ unit, which is great, but I just noticed that the KnockBlock tech specs say that I can use the output for knock sensor freq output in PCLink which would make life so much easier given that I also have a KnockLink hooked up that I watch very closely The ECU I am using on this particular car is a Monsoon, which appears to have a 0-5V analogue input available for knock but I can't seem to find any data on what the audio output from the KnockBlock is... or whether I can in fact just wire a 3.5mm audio jack from the output straight into the ECU? Cheers and happy Friday! Tim
  13. LukemanHakim

    G4+ monsoon

    Hello, my first post, Im interested to get the link ecu g4+ monsoon from local dealer. My concern is, one dealer said that the link ecu product mentioned are not compatible with my car as my car is automatic transmission as it will mess with gear shifting, while another dealer said it is compatible. Appreciate for any answer on this matter before i jump to either link ecu or other alternatives. My car is Honda Accord euro cl7 2.0 AT 2005. (K20a6) Mods: RBC intake Planned mods before ecu tuning : k24 swap Thanks, Regards Luke
  14. Hi Team, Having an issue with setting up the microtech dash with the monsoon. I wired it up to the can H/L as per the instructions in the PCLink help, then connected to the ecu while the car was on accessory, setup it up with 'Transmit Microtech LTC Dash' as per the help, applied, and hit okay, and it displays the information as it should. So I stored to the ecu, and fired the car up and the information stops showing. If I apply the settings again while the car is running its fine until I turn the car off and back on. I've tried changing the CANBUS channel, triple checked the settings and wiring, tried storing to the ecu and disconnecting the laptop and usb cable from the ecu, checked the runtime values and can't see any issues. cheers Thomas
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