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  1. I have a 4age 20v Blacktop Toyota engine in a mk1 MR2. The engine was installed with a harness from WireGap and plugs into the factory Blacktop ECU just like a factory loom. Runs great. Wife got me a brand new Monsoon for Christmas (I hinted it might be appreciated) and I'm now planning to do coil-on-plugs imminently, and maybe supercharge a couple (3-6) pounds in the future. I'd like to get the ECU up and running sooner though. I need to make a translation pigtail from the "factory" Blacktop harness to the Link Monsoon. Is there a convenient wiring diagram for this someone could share, along with any special notes for configuration (fixed timing advance for first startup, VVT recommendations etc.)?I need a knock sensor. Do I need the Link knock light system, or is the knock sensor itself enough for this? (I'm going to datalog every trip and do nerd science with the data)I need a wideband o2 sensor. I think I need the Link/Bosch CAN lambda sensor (for the extra data), or can the Monsoon read the Bosch LSU4.9 sensor natively?Additionally, any general guidance on a 4age 20v Blacktop would be appreciated. I'm new to tuning, but have been (1) reading forums nonstop for months, (2) watching High Performance Academy instructionals, (3) reading Performance Fuel Injection Systems and (4) working on cars for 15 years. I plan on carefully proceeding to attempt road/track tuning and supplementing my experience with Dyno time for that perfect edge, hopefully after I've achieved a passable tune manually. If I suck at this I'll just go pay the dyno guy to do it for me, but I really want to learn it myself ;-). I need to order a Link A pigtail and a 20v ECU socket to get the harness patched across. This will be a project that unfolds over the coming months. I look forward to learning Link!
  2. 91 SW20 MR2 chassis EFI System: -Link G4+ Thunder -1zz COP direct spark -5s 36-2 crank sensor and trigger -Gen 2 3s distributor used for cam sync -BM 2-wire knock sensor -GM 4bar MAP sensor -GM Flex Fuel sensor (modeled fuel mode, dual fuel mapping from E10-E80) Engine: -2.0L forged Gen 2 3sgte block maintaining factory compression -Gen 2 3sgte head with Engle valve springs and GSC S1 (268) cams, adjustable cam gears (E:7deg retard, I:0deg) -Modified ATS straight runner intake manifold -Custom intercooler system utilizing a CSF A2W core -Custom exhaust manifold and downpipe with recirculated Tial MVR 48mm EWG, XonaRotor XR7164 turbo with 0.82 v-banded hotside -3” Berk dual exhaust -ID1700xds injectors supplied with a Walbro 450lph pump -Custom air cooled oil cooler system with Setrab cooler and Mocal oil thermostat, relocated oil filter -IAG universal AOS with three -10 crank case breathers Transmission: -Stock E153 w/ factory LSD -Clutch Masters 725 series twin disk w/ steel flywheel -Drive Shaft Shop axles Car made 495whp/385wft-lbs on a Mustang Dyno on a 95degF day and 70% humidity and a heat soaked IC system (120F IC water temp) because the heat exchangers were being starved of airflow. Boost pressure was on 20psi tapering to 23psi at redline and fuel was E79. It had a lot more steam in it, but I stopped where I did because I didn’t want to exceed 350ftlbs-lbs around natural peak torque and 380ftlbs-lbs closer to redline because it is a 3sgte block prone to fatigue cracking on the cylinder walls. Plan is to run it like this until I build a 5s block with a partial block fill. This car is more wired than a new BMW and the Link ecu is the nervous center for it and handles everything I throw at it. All auxiliary systems that have to do with motor function are controlled by the ecu and I have more sensors on the car than are probably necessary. The IC system alone has 5 temps sensors, one water flow sensor and one level sensor in the reservoir just to give you an idea haha. But I love data and since the Link has access to all of it, I can change how each system functions just by a simple software change.
  3. Hi, I need some help setting up the OEM knock sensor on a 91 Toyota MR2 (ST185) Gen 2 Eng. Link G4x PNP I have knock mode set to Ignition Trims and I'm not sure if that's the only thing I need to do. I see there is a Knock Threshold Table which has all 0's on it at the moment. Thanks!
  4. My plan is to have the Link Fury G4x to manage the MR2 SW20 Power Steering (PS). Let me explain some overview of the MR2 power steering module. The OEM setup of this PS is a separate systems. It has it own ECU to manage the PS motor. The module consist of 1) PS ECU 2) PS hydraulic motor 80ampere 3) PS relay (uses a solid state relay) 4) Steering angle sensor On OEM setup, The PS will operate once the PS ECU receive input from the steering angel sensor (activate after 33 degree angle) and speed sensor. The PS motor will run with 9-11v current with the combination of this condition PS angle sensor reads more than 33 degree; and speed = 0km/h The PS motor will run with 3-5v current with the combination of this conditions: PS angel sensor read more than 33 degree; and Speed = 65km/h To my understanding, this PS module is a electrical run hydraulic systems. The steering angle sensor will determine how much PS oil need to pump according to angle (correct me if i am wrong) when the PS motor runs. My question is, how can I get Link G4x Fury to run the PS motor according to this table: Vehicle speed (km/h) 0 10 20 30 40 50 PS Motor Speed (%) 100 60 50 40 25 0 2. Which Link g4x AUX can manage the OEM relay? Or should I just get other type of relay? 3. Anyone experience running the MR2 PS motor with LINK ECU? Care to share some wiring diagram of your setup? Anything that I should know as a heads up before I embark on this project?
  5. Hello everyone, so i might be overlooking this but what's suppose to be the normal voltage to ecu for PIN 71 +14V?? My tuner told me that my the g4+ plugin was not seeing a good amount of voltage so he had made a jumper wire from the alternator positive post straight into the (B) Pin 71 thus ECU getting 14V, and had continued tuning my car like that. I eventually had to take that jumper wire off bc it would leave the ecu activated and drain the battery even after I would turn off the car bc it's straight powered from the battery. Right now I only see ~12.8V to the ecu. With car on i have 14V at the battery posts and alternator positive post to chassis ground. Battery is in front of the car, positive cable runs through the whole length of the car into the trunk where the fuse box is located. In picture provided, it's 13V at the 15A EFI fuse White/Red Wire to (Batt) Pin 61: 12.8V Black/Yellow to (+B) Pin 71: 12.8V Here's a log that I've recorded, ECU voltage varies bc of loads like lights, signals, fan, etc.. Can someone give me some advice? Log 2019-12-15 4;37;23 pm.llg
  6. Can anyone tell me what knock level gains they used for each cylinder of a 3sgte when using a Bosch 2-wire knock sensor? I have everything else set up, but I would feel more sure about myself if I could verify the values that I came up with. I am a beginner in the tuning aspect of things, but very competent on the electrical and programming side of things. When dialing in the knock level gains, I am not confident that I am adjusting for the noisiest rpm of the motor or if it is actual knock. So I don't want to set my gains to low that a knock event doesn't surpass the threshold. Just for reference this is a Gen 2 3sgte (I will take any information from any revision 3sgte) and the knock sensor is a Bosch Motorsports KS4-P.
  7. Hi all, I've just started looking into tuning with my G4+. This is my first shot at tuning and the car will almost exclusively be driven on the street. I've been slowly working my way around various functions and getting a feel for what they do and how my car responds. I've been gradually going through some of the HP Academy webinars but still feel like quite a noob! A few details about the car. - 98RON Petrol exclusively. - Walbro 255 fuel pump - CT26/GT35 hybrid (yes I know....) - 540cc Toyota injectors - 3SGE (NA) cams - 1ZZ COPs via an external converter box (Was operating this way on the factory ECU. Will be wired directly eventually) - High flow CAT I'm after any advice on the particular setup, but in particular I'm looking at some help trying to narrow down a low rpm hesitation. It feels like I have very little torque around 1000-2500 rpm. This has pretty much always been the case with the factory ECU and the stupidly oversized/restricted turbo in it, but this I think still comes down to tuning. There are probably a whole heap of things that need to be changed on the attached map. Some may have been tweaked in isolation. Also, does anyone know if the 3SGTE factory knock sensor is able to be setup in the PnP G4+? low_rpm_stutter_3.llg MR2_Modified_Tune_v3.pclr
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