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Found 8 results

  1. Link PNP in stock harness. Series 1 RB25 5 speed Issue is that at around 3200rpm the TPS % drops to 0% causing a cut of throttle until more or less throttle is applied. Occurs intermittently but always in 1st gear, taking off from a stop. TPS analog values show 0.47 closed and 3.70 open, I have recalibrate the tps multiple times but issue persists. I have checked and the tps rises and lowers with throttle smoothly in voltage and position. I have attached the .pcl and log. Issue can be seen at 21:17 in the log. tps logs.pclr tps logs.llg
  2. Hi there, i have tuning this rb34 with ross trigger setup and sensors its makes around 735hp 65kg torgue at 1.4bar but the problem when i reach 6800 rpm the crank signal goes error count more up to 30-40 time in dyno pull. my question, why the link ecu filter its not filtering till i filter it max,there were no changes. what it can cost?only crank sensor it is trigger 2 getting error at high rpm,the cam side looks fine so far.(is it design faulty from ross,i have check today online they have change the design12 tooth to sharp edge) i have change sensor priority to trigger 1,still same is this magnectic sensor not good for higher rpm?or link ecu got filtering issue so anyone any idea how to make work without error. thank you for your advise
  3. Hi all on my r33 gtr rb26dett How can I double check my 2nd fuel pumps cut in injector duty please Also how can i increase the coolant warning, I think currently it warns me with the check engine light at 100c which is to low for the hot weather Thanks in advance all atest-gtr.pclr
  4. Hi I've just finally got my Skyline on the road which has a Link G4 Storm ECU I have a Windows 10 Tablet mounted and I can autostart the app to run when the tablet is booted but is there an "autoconnect" to the ECU? Rather than having to press F3? Thanks in advance!
  5. Hi all, I’m on the home stretch of my single turbo conversion. I hope this post will serve as a second source of information and troubleshooting guide for myself and possibly others. I’m sure there are things I can learn from you guys who have done this before. Base Map: Now when I load the R32 GTR basemap and have yet to change anything (updated firmware, calibrated MAP and TPS). Where should I start in terms of correcting necessary settings on PCLink. Any help is greatly appreciated. I’m a complete beginner on this ECU, or any ECU in fact. But the goal is to get the car started and idling well. From what I’ve read on the forum, set injector master pulse(4ms?)(if lean increase PW, if rich lower PW) set injector dead times as per the fuel pressure. In this case 30 advised by NZEFI. How about dwell time? I will be using R8 coils (see part below) What about timing? Given my mechanical timing components are installed properly, how is timing set on the ecu? Will I need a timing light as soon as it’s running? Lastly, will I have to do this? It says: “In your trigger settings, Set engine type to RB26, set widest slot to 24deg, then set test ECCS sync to off (this must be done last). Do a store, then crank it again and tell us if it now shows RPM. All the other stuff is irrelevant for now. The GTR doesnt have an oil pressure sensor connected to the ECU, the sensor is connected to the gauge in the dash only. Your air temp sensor is connected to AN Temp 2, so turn AN Temp 3 off and put the below setings in AN Temp 2. The AN Volt 6 error is because the oxygen sensor wont output voltage until it is warmed up. We can change the fault setting so that doesnt report an error later.” Anyways, there’s a bit more things to button up but I want to have a solid idea when I’m ready to turn the engine over. Should I subscribe for the gold membership at HPAcademy or I can get by first start/idle with the Link forum? Parts: ECU – GTRLINK - #NGTR+ Using map sensor source from old PCV valve using a 4mm to ¼” BSP fitting. http://dealers.linkecu.com/NGTRPlus Manifold – DocRace Single scroll modified w/ an extra vband flange for a second wastegate https://docrace.com/collections/nissan/products/rbx-single-scroll-topmount Turbo – 6266 Gen 1 PTE ball bearing w/ an upgraded Gen 2 compressor wheel. “P/S” compressor housing 4” inlet, 2.5” outlet with the anti-surge design. 3AN oil feed (No restrictor as recommended size is 4 an, and I believe there is an orifice within the centering mechanism; but regardless Precision advises against an oil feed restrictor), 10 AN drain utilizing the old drain line. https://www.realstreetperformance.com/precision-turbo-gen-2-6266-sp-cover.html Wastegate – 46mm Precision EWG w/ 17 psi springs, 46mm Tial EWG w/ 17psi springs https://shop.precisionturbo.net/pw46-46mm-wastegate | BOV – Tial Q 50mm BOV w/ 11 psi springs http://www.tialsport.com/index.php/tial-products/bovs/46-tialbvq Downpipe – Custom 3” downpipe IC piping – Custom 3” IC piping with charge pipe from 2.5” turbo outlet -> 3” Wideband – AEM 30-4110. 0-5v value? High? Low? Lambda? (Include values and data). Will be wired to pin 29 aka front oxygen sensor). https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/wideband-uego-air-fuel-controllers/digital-wideband-uego-afr-gauge/digital-wideband-uego-afr-gauge Injectors – NZEFI 1000cc/min direct fit R32-R34 GTR Bosch ev14 injectors + injector ballast delete. Flow rate? Dead times? Pulse width? (include data) http://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-rb-1000ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/ Fuel – Walbro 450 lph, new fuel pump strainer, new fuel filter https://www.briantooleyracing.com/walbro-450lph-high-performance-in-tank-e85-fuel-f90000274.html Ignition coils – R8 ignition coils (06E905115E). (Dwell time?) (Does anyone have dwell time data for R8 coils?) How is this even set? https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Audi-06E905115E-Ignition-Coil/dp/B00NUB40RK Spark Plugs – NGK 4644 BKR7E V-Power Plug (figure out appropriate gap) https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9349 FPR – TurboSmart 1200. 6an to 8mm lines. (Adjust to 43.5 psi base pressure) http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/Fuel-Pressure-Regulators/FPR1200-2017-Black.html MAC 3 Port Electronic Boost Control Solenoid Valve DC12V 5.4W 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA - Boost solenoid – MAC 3 port solenoid. 1(Normally Closed), 2(Common), 3(Normally Open). Setup: Top port(s) of WG are vented to atmosphere, Bottom port of WG are tee’d into one line that goes to PORT 2 of solenoid, Port 3 of Solenoid comes from turbo vac source, port 1 is vented to atmosphere. (polarity is not sensitive, wired into factory 2 pin connector) Timing – the timing belt was recently changed before I purchased the car. The slack is just right and seems to follow the instruction manual. I lined up the notches on the intake and exhaust cam and the balancer against the backplate covers and TDC seems to line up with all the marks (belt marks included) - Do I need to set timing in the ECU config? Or is syncing the timing once the car is able to idle? Clutch – Nismo super coppermix twin plate (push style) to hold for 670 ps. https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-super-coppermix-twin-plate-clutch-kit-bnr32-r32-r33.html Exhaust – no name catback with a test pipe (cat delete) and resonator delete. IC – stock intercooler, paint stripped, and oil residue inside core cleaned by sloshing gasoline inside. Battery – Relocated in the boot via 1 AWG wire, 200Amp circuit breaker 4-5" from positive terminal. Catchcan – rb26 valve cover push on fittings, 10 AN lines to a dual baffle vented catch can. To be changed/upgraded: IAT fast response sensor, Aluminum radiator Cheers
  6. Morning all First post here and need some help I have a really annoying cold start problem. ..... Its only present when the car is totally cold & stood overnight. Start the car roll off the drive pull off on idle to keep the neighbours happy and as I gentle accelerate she splutters and tries to die give get to end of the road and give it some more normal revs and splutters then clears and fine for the rest of the day! Now this morning she’s sat for 2x days turned the key she just kept turning over tried again kept turning over and as I let key off MASSIVE backfire! Poo’d a little then tried again and started fine!?!? Iv had it do this not start then back fire 2x other times as well when very very cold and also when very cold it has hunted as well when pulling up to traffic lights. My mapper suggested a big plenum vac leak as it was hunting and it’s prob sealing itself when hot checked it myself found nothing sent her in for a smoke test found nothing... I’m a bit stumped now and a bit pissed off my car is acting like uncle bucks on cold mornings lol thanks all John
  7. Hey Guys, Im kinda new to engine swapping and wiring so I want to do this right. I Bought a r32 skyline gtst with a 68mm turbo about 4 months ago, 2 months in the motor knocked. So i opted out and got a rb25 neo. Im trying to figure out this ecu as in what plugs in to these accessories. for example, there is a vacuum hose coming out of the ecu itself out of a little module, the question i have is, is that a boost gauge or boost controller or what? i downloaded the manuel and didn't find anything about it there. Sorry if it s a stupid question and thanks in advance!! Instagram: @thatblueskyline
  8. Hi, I have had my link G4 fitted and mapped to my R33 GTR for over a year now but it recently started to hit what felt like a rev limiter or misfire at 5k while driving down the road.. After doing some basic engine ignition/ fuel checks, and all were fine. I started to look at the setting on the ecu. (I am a mechanic but have no mapping experience) I found the ignition trim for launch control was set to 5k. I have confirmed that launch control is continuously active. Launch RPM activation is set to 6k at 0 ground speed and 8k above 10 ground speed. If i turn launch control off the car will drive and rev all the way round to the RPM limit. So I am amusing the link g4 is not seeing a ground speed and think the car is always at a stop. Can anyone tell me where to check what ground speed the ecu is seeing? And what wire the signal should come down? Unit is a PnP link G4 for Nissan Skyline R33 GTR. Thanks
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