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  1. Looking for an ECU where I can use a downshift throttle blip on track. As it is a street car I don't need the function for daily use and if I do I can do it manually. However, on track I would rather have an automated system. So possibility to have it switchable? Stock 6 speed gearbox. This is for a 2001 Impreza V7. Standard wiring loom. Also have a 1997 WRX which is a track only car, with a PPG 5 speed dog gearset. Changing out from an old ECU with a custom wiring loom so have scope to put on whatever I want. This definitely would benefit from an ECU with traction control as well.
  2. Hello Thank you for your attention. I need help with my Subaru WRX STI 2011 JDM EJ207. I have implemented my Link G4+ fury with my car. But my engine does not increase rpm more than 5500rpm. Under 5000 rpm works fine. I've tried changing my ignition timing from 45 BTDC to 0 BTDC but it does not have any effects. I've also double checked my dwell table, Ignition delay, Ignition charge time as same as shown in help in PCLink that it's same as the EJ20 quad AVCS configuration. Do you have any guesses? Thank you very much.
  3. Hi all Just wondering if the V44 PnP on a V6 WRX controls the 'pressure exchange solenoid'? Part number is 14774AA530. The vacuum line from the intake manifold to the MAP sensor routes through this solenoid but when you unplug the solenoid there are no ECU errors/voltage drops and when the solenoid is powered off you can't blow/suck through it in any direction. Just wondering if it is a hindrance to the MAP sensor now that I don't have the factory ECU and possibly the V44 isn't controlling it? Can I just run a vacuum line from the intake manifold to the MAP sensor (which is now an Omni Power 3 Bar) or does this solenoid have something to do with allowing the MAP sensor to read boost but not vacuum, instead making it read atmospheric pressure when the manifold is in vacuum? If it's not operational then it means I can get rid of it plus the unused factory boost control solenoid and big silly bracket they both share, cleans things up a little. If I can indeed run a vacuum line directly from the manifold to the MAP sensor does it need any check valves or filters on the line etc? Cheers Owen
  4. Hey guys, I decided to swap my intake manifold from a sti V6 to a V7 to get ride of the ISC stepper and also I removed the coil pack to use Direct Spark. What would be the best approach to wire the coils? Use the loom Ignition Drive 7 and 8 + the current Ignition Drive 1 and 2. Or Could I use Aux 7 and 8 for the coil since I'm not going to use it anymore? Or better rewire the Engine Fan to use Ignition Drive 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the coils and move Aux 7 and 8 for the fans? Any other tip or advice on that?
  5. Hi there all, i am facing a problem that i can not solve and i would like to know if anyone has face anything like this before. I am having the oem ecu and i am running with it for example at 1.5 bar of boost 20o advance and with the link now i am having 10o less.... and it is still doing some noise on the knock control. i have checked everything from the trigger to all the configurations... can anyone explain that please?? Thank you in advance Ted p.s. this is my map file https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u2cx1ZBQ66FVdE6DoaYb8im1vIODOZun/view?usp=sharing even that i am running less advance the car goes same or even better when i am running the oem ecu
  6. Ted


    Hi there all, we would like to change the existing dbw to dbc. what do we need and how difficult is to run ? i know the parts that i want , the only thing is what should i do internally to the ecu. Thank you in advance Ted
  7. Hi there, i am looking for the new Fic 1000cc injectors (Subaru sti) the short pulse width ad table. does anyone knows something about it or where can i find it? thank you in advance Ted p.s i know that ID has for all the injectors and ecus different tables. FIC doesn't have any on the web.
  8. Hello team, I was configuring my g4+ pnp last week. Tried to connect AEM x-series wideband to ecu(through CAN). Everything is good at first, than suddenly I lost my tacho signal. It was strange because ecu still have normal rpm signal. Only instrument cluster and hks evc(can read TPS) lost it. Here is my troubleshooting attempt: 1.Restart engine 2.Restart aux function 4 (tacho) 3.Adjust tacho duty cycle (25% and 75%) 4.Reload base map 5.Downgrade firmware But I have no luck to solve this problem. If I change back to OEM ecu than cluster and evc will back online, so it shouldn’t be a wiring problem. Do I have something else worth to try? Any help will be appreciated. Car:2003 Subaru Impreza WRX STI EDM ECU:G4+ WRXLINK 7-9 PNP
  9. Subaru v5 STi, WRX6 Plug-in ECU I have disabled the ANv4 (n/b o2) Error low fault detection (set to 0v) but the ECU is still throwing fault code 20; below error low value. Any ideas?
  10. Erratic sensor readings .MOV Just plugged in my WRX6 plug-in ECU for the first time. Upon switching the ignition to "on", engine "off", I immediately heard my IACV cycling. I connected to my ECU via PClink, and noticed erratic readings. I updated the firmware and readings remained. I flashed a tune with the proper calibrations for my MAP sensor, injectors, etc. and performed a TPS calibration. Erratic sensor readings remained and now included an erratic TPS signal. Another issue I'm running into is a repeated request to unlock the ECU. Any ideas? Attached is a video screenshot. Please excuse my post edits haha. Haven't figured out how to remove dupilcate videos
  11. I have a v5 STi with OEM IAT. I bought a GM IAT and installed it just before the throttle body. Should I use the expansion connector or should I snip the OEM IAT and wire it to the GM IAT?
  12. Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice about drive the car to the shop to get a tune. First I need to drive 7km only using the downpipe to get my exhaust finished. Later more 35km to the shop to get a tune. Not sure if it will be safe and don't wanna take the risk. The mods that I have is: - Catless downpipe - IAG AOS Competition - Mac 3 ports boost solenoid - Aftermarket air filter - 3bar link map Did a log and drove back and forward inside the garage and sometimes the AFR looks hi. Could it bring me problems if I drive slow and not boosting? Also after touch the throttle the idle status shows (Hold - RPM Lockout) and the RPM stay around 1500. I tried to solve it but I'm not too confident to do it myself and think will be not a problem drive like that right? Subaru TypeRA V6.pclr Log 2018-10-22 5;23;44 pm.llg
  13. Hey guys, I own a subaru wrxsti 2005. Im currently running on G4 link. I tried 2step before but the 2step was still on at 3+k rpm when I'm driving. Do I need wiring loom and button? If yes. Where can I get one? In need of help. Thank you!
  14. Hi there, i would like to ask if anyone knows if a plug and play g4+ for a dbw can be altered to play cable throttle. it is for a subaru drag car that we have here and has the same as mine but we want to covert it to cable throttle for better response. Thank you in advance Ted
  15. First time poster here, Bit of background, I've installed a Link Thunder on my 2007 Subaru Liberty GT Spec B Manual with a built EJ255. I haven't cut the factory loom, instead made my own patch harness. I've had no trouble setting up the ecu, apart from the Start Position which I have assigned to DI10. I've got a problem where with the key OFF I have 3v on this wire, 7v with the key ON and 9v while cranking. I'll attach a link to a video which shows DI10 and Aux. 8 (Starter Solenoid) are flashing on and off rapidly with the key in the ON position. One I turn the key to start they both stay ON, release the key and they flash again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWuCVqM-828 I've plugged my OEM ecu back in and tested the voltage, 0v with the key OFF and ON, 10-11v while cranking, which I believe is correct. I've also attached a photo of the OEM wiring diagram for reference, I've connected pin C32 to DI10 (Start Position), the "On Level" set to HIGH. Then C20 to Aux. 8 (Starter Solenoid), the "Polarity" set to LOW. I'm trying to work out if I have a wiring problem or if I may of configured something wrong. I can provide any other details, any assistance would be great.
  16. Ted

    Subaru knock problem

    Hi there after finishing with my tuning with the base maps etc i have tried to fix the knock table. the problem that i am facing is that i am puting my nmbers in the kno ck table and is retarding where i have bigger numbers. i have the log files if anyone can understand why is happening. i am also attaching my map file that i run now on the car I'll be great full if anyone can help me Log 2018-05-8 9;31;12 pm.llg TED WITH KNOCK 08052018.pclr
  17. I have 2012 JDM Subar WRX STI Spec.C (Ver 11 I guess...) Engine : EJ207 quad AVCS I have setup all the VVT stuffs. Including Camshaft position sensor's offset using the cam angle test. I took a log and it describes that, intake cams are correctly at the target position. But Exaust cam pos is hunching(going up and down around the target cam position) I have both tried cam control mode as SUBARU Quad AVCS and SUBARU AVCS EJ20. Both of them had the same result. I have my Link Fury as Piggybacked to my OEM ECU. But I have disconnected all the cam position sensors, cam solenoids etc.. from the OEM ECU. Does anyone have any guesses? Log 2018-04-19 1;31;19 am.zip G4+Fury-initial51.pclr
  18. Hey guys, just installed a G4+ on a stock Subaru 2000 Sti Type RA and I'm having some problem. I'm not a professional but know the basic things and wanna learn deeply about that. 1 - My Engine Fan 2 is always on. When I turn the key to on position it's turned on too. 2 - When I start the engine (hot) the idle stay at 900 rpm but if I depress the accelerator it's going to 1500 and stay around this value. 3 - Looks like my wideband O2 sensor is not working properly. I can not see the values changing and the Log shows it always at 0.686. I guess something is wrong with that. I'm using an AEM and used this post as reference to configure: My AEM ground is on the body, not sure if is that the problem. Would be better plug it on the GND on XL Loom? Log 2018-01-6 2_03_54 am.llg Subaru TypeRA V6.pclr
  19. Hello All, I am new to the LINK Community. In simple terms, I just bought my wrx4+ and I will be looking to map it myself as I did before with my old ecu. I am looking to see if anyone could perhaps share some info in regards with my first off setup, because the old ecu, was brilliant in the fact it was simple to use, few tables etc. I knew what i wanted to do and where that simple table is to be found, where the PC LINK can get a bit overwhelming, specially as I get sidetracked all the time by see all the nittygritty stuff (good stuff tho) . So I guess, first question is if there's a topic / video going trough PC Link main features? [I been watching HPA's videos for most of the stuff already, however I'm wondering if there is like a basic one on software only, and how to find what you looking for in there, as I found the software with all these features can get complicated very fast]. Hard to explain myself here I guess, but in a way I'm looking for like the newcomers' guide to Link lol. Secondly, looking at my spec: MDX321T turbo coupled with the Newage STI 565cc subaru (830cc@3bar) decapped injectors , I am interested if anyone has some standard data for setting the injector dead times or some basic settings I could start them off from.. On my old ecu I didn't have access to this data, and it was just a scaler, which meant that during the initial part of an acceleration run I was getting a huge spike of rich fuel, and I would like to avoid this for the new setup. 3.I was also running 4bar of fuel rail pressure, relative to manifold, this was giving me very steady idle, however I'm guessing that if I can better control the injectors, I should be able to lower the fuel rail pressure, or shall I keep it as the injector spray pattern should be better at this high pressure anyways ? Obviously this pressure will affect my dead times too, this is why is confusing to me. The fuel system itself can take it, as is fully built up using new piping, parallel fuel fed to injectors all coupled with AN fittings. 4. ECU Knock = WRX4+ has this built in, however when I browsed the base map, I didn't see it enabled. Should I enable it with the OEM knock sensor ? If yes again, anyone could share what they use for the knock settings? Secondly, shall/can I buy a wideband knock sensor and set that up on it instead? 5. Looking at fuel/ignition tables not sure if because I was browsing the base-map without being connected to ECU but it seems to me that the manifold pressure used is an absolute value? Is that true ? if yes, any reason why not to change it to what i'm used to (as in relative to atmospheric pressure). That's about it I guess, ecu's still not in car (pending delivery). the link can lambda is also going to go in, however I'm expecting that to come with instructions and presets. Full spec, just in case you have questions is 2.1 Stroker version 4 sti heads, Lateral MDX321T turbo gt spec headers and 3"full exhaust. and about that, rest is all standard supporting mods, like front mount, 3 port etc. On my old map i made it to 409 but, but i didn't push hard or anything, as it was the first time i mapped it, and goal was just to take it to 400, plenty more to come from the setup with this new ecu now in hand. Thanks and sorry for the long post.
  20. 2004 USDM STI. Having an issue with the Auto Mode (Wide Band) for Closed Loop Lambda. Wideband is wired to Lambda 1, Quick Tune and Auto Tune functions work. Wideband reports correctly in PClink. When i enable Closed Loop Lambda, i get ZERO corrections, both in stoich and auto wideband modes, its like it just doesnt turn on. Ive gone over my settings on the table and have played with them up and down and cant get any correction to happen. Attached is screen shot from the current configuration. Its gotta be a simple setting im missing.
  21. hi guys looking to convert my subaru ver 4 to coil on plug away from centre coil for better spark and more boost my g4 storm ecu (wire in) on ver3-4 config has ign dwell against battery voltage, when looking to use ver7 onwards coil on plugs using jti loom coversion and looked at ver5 onwards the dwell times have battery voltage against rpm what the best dwell settings to use on wrx coil on plugs as only have 1 dwell colum on the ver 3-4 configuration as cant go indivial from ecu as using other ign outputs for cooling fan and intercooler water spray activation thanks neil
  22. I've been registered here for a while, but as a reflection of my progress on my project , I haven't actually done anything on the site. I have a '97 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT, which has done daily driver / auto-cross / track day duty for me since I bought it in 2000. The late '90s 2.5GTs were non-turbo, with the DOHC 2.5L EJ25D rated at 165/162 hp/tq. Over the years, I did a variety of modifications to the original EJ25D - ported heads, reground cams, header, etc - that resulted in a significant bump in power, to something around what a stock 2.0L WRX puts down. Yes, I realize many would think that was a poor ROI compared to just doing a turbo swap, but I've never had any desire to go the turbo route (note the license plate in the above pic). However, more power is more better, so at some point I started thinking about swapping in the EZ30 6-cylinder from the Outback. Initially I was planning to use the 2nd generation EZ30, commonly called the EZ30R, which was offered starting in '05 in the US. Rated @ ~245bhp, DBW throttle body, variable intake cam timing and lift, blah blah blah. I picked up a very lightly used EZ30R years ago and was intending to swap that in the car. Since the 30R uses a CAN-bus type ECU with an Immobilizer, it's very challenging to use the factory ECU (I've only ever seen discussion of 1 person successfully accomplishing that), so I picked up a Vipec V88 to run the engine. 4 years ago, I was still running an EJ25D, planning to do the 6-cylinder swap "some day". Then I managed to hydro-lock the EJ25D , and suddenly it seemed like it was time to do the H6 swap. Unfortunately, I had run into some issues getting the 30R cylinder heads worked on by a shop, so the first H6 I had purchased wasn't ready to go. I came across a great deal on a used 1st generation EZ30, commonly called the EZ30D, so I bought that and rebuilt it. The 30D doesn't have the fancy variable cams, is drive by cable, and is only rated 212hp. So, I proceeded with the swap, and mechanically pretty much got things done as of 2-1/2 years ago: I had spoken with a Vipec dealer / tuner here in the US about installing & tuning the ECU for me - he was only a few hours away, so it would've been quite convenient. Unfortunately, by the time I finished all of the mechanical stuff, and then had to pack all of my stuff and relocate due to a change in duty station, he was no longer in the Vipec business. Well... damn. Thus began the long, stagnant period, during which I ignored the thing and hoped that the wiring harnesses would magically merge on their own. That has still not happened , so I might actually have to do it myself! I've gone through the Subaru engine harness wiring diagram and created a nice Excel spreadsheet of everything. I had sourced a complete main dash harness from an '01 Outback; I've culled that down to just the connectors that plug into the engine harness, each with long pigtails for merging purposes. Now I just need to figure out matching up the EZ30D pinouts to the V88 pinouts, some of which is pretty obvious, but other stuff I need to do some homework. And then I need to actually merge the harnesses, something I've never undertaken before. At my current pace, I'm reasonably certain I will have the project completed at some point this century, maybe even this decade.
  23. Hi, I have been researching closed loop boost control and came across a previous post that has deterred me, please could you comment on the following?... Andre Simon's post: I've mentioned this in a previous thread here, however I'll just caution you that the current closed loop boost control in the G4+ is problematic. Particularly if you're fussy, you'll find it impossible to get 100% accurate and repeatable boost. Link are aware of this and there is an update in the pipeline. Until then personally I'd use the passive closed loop setup discussed in the course.
  24. Hello, I have a Vipec Subaru V1-2 Ecu that I would like to run a set of newer dual avcs heads with, both intake and exhaust cams. Here is my current wiring, and my proposed wiring...it looks like it should work to me, but I wanted to get verification on this idea though. Currently I am running an Sti ej20g setup but I will convert the intake to a V7-8 style sti intake with drive by cable, and v10 sti style dual avcs heads, I've noted how some of the Aux and Digital inputs will be freed up. Thanks for the help! Current Wiring New AVCS Wiring Aux 1 – ISC Sol. Slave VVT Cam Solenoid (ISC Slave Removed as per Sti V7-8 manifold Aux 2 – ISC Solenoid VVT Cam Solenoid Aux 3 – Tacho VVT Cam Solenoid Aux 4 – Boost Solenoid VVT Cam Solenoid (Boost controlled via MBC) Aux 5 – Fuel Pump Fuel Pump Aux 6 – Aircon Clutch Tacho Aux 7 – Purge ISC Solenoid (Purge Controlled via Hobbs Switch) Aux 8 – CE Light CE Light Injector Drive 1 – Injector 1 Injector Drive 2 – Injector 2 Injector Drive 3 – Injector 3 Injector Drive 4 – Injector 4 Injector Drive 5 – Engine Fan (HS) Injector Drive 6 – Engine Fan DI 1 – Start Position DI 2 – Air Con Request VVT Cam Position DI 3 – Power Steer VVT Cam Position DI 4 – Speed VVT Cam Position DI 5 – OFF Power Steer DI 6 – OFF Speed AN Temp 1- Engine coolant Temp AN Temp 2 – Inlet Air Temp AN Temp 3 – OFF AN Volt 1 – MAP Sensor AN Volt 2 – OFF An Volt 3 – TPS (Main) AN Volt 4- Voltage 0-5v AN Volt 5 – Wideband AN Volt 6 – OFF
  25. Hi! I have a 2001 subaru wrx sti (jdm). When I plugged the Ecu in the first time, the tacho did the blip when power was turned on. At the time I couldn´t connect to the ECU since the pins on the engine management were on wrong position (sti/wrx). After I changed the position I got connection to my pc but since then the tacho hasn´t worked and it doesn´t blip. It says on the manual that tacho should be on aux 4 channel and i have tried to test that channel, but im not sure if i have understood correctly how test pwm or test on works.
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