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Electrical interference?


Guest |591|
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Guest |591|

ok so i just got a new fuse box and started to wire up the different circuits, currently i have 2 of them

1.gauge circuit which includes my boost/AFR/ECT/OIL press/ Boost controller/ Turbo timer. This circuit is only fused with a 10 AMP fuse, grounded at the fuse box ground terminal

2.Injectors, Ls2 Coils, Stand alone circuit which includes just those. This circuit is Fused with a 20AMP fuse and is ran off a 40Amp relay. I have the power side of the relay coil wired in parallel to 2 other relays " which are currently powering nothing, but one of them will power a fuel pump" this goes for the ground side of the relays coil to. the switch side of the relay is then powering the Injectors/Coils/and stand alone, the two grounds off the vi-pec and ls2 coil "sequencer ground" are wired parallel to the ground bus at the fuse box, and i have a separate lead going from the LS2 coils "ground near coil" but it's wired to the ground bus at the fuse box. "only because i dont have a ground strap wired to the body and engine of the car yet.

The problem.

When i go to test the Injectors it causes my Gauge circuit to go crazy "the boost controller turns on and off with every pulse and the AFR gauge bounces up and down, and the turbo timer turns off and it sounds like the pulsing from the stand alone is going to that." when i pull the gauge circuit fuse i can still hear a ticking noise "like an injector firing" inside the turbo timer. So then what i did was i just fully disconnected the ground for the gauge circuit and tried again, when i told it to test inj. pair 1 it then caused the stand alone to go offline "or at least it lost USB signal" and I think the relay started to flick on and off. Currently the relays coil side aren't wired to fuse box ground i just temporally ran the wires directly to the battery.

battery was on the charger so i was getting 13-14V

I Triple checked the wiring and there shouldn't be any shorts.

This problem happens when testing the Injectors but it is alot worse when checking the Ign. coils

could the problem be

1. the coils grounds are both currently wired to the same spot as the vi=pec and gauges?

2.Because i have 3 relay coil side's wired parallel?

Here are two diagrams i quickly drew up to show you the circuit

gaugecircuit.jpg

injignstandaloneciruit.jpg

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The ground wires on the ignition coils are like transmitter aerials. It is very important that they as short as possible and go to ground on the engine. If they are long and bundled with other wires going to the ECU, you will get interference.

Another thing I notice is you have the ignition coils signal grounds connect to the coil ground. The signal ground needs to be connected to the signal ground on the ECU.

Ray.

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Guest |591|

i guess i dont understand the last bit to the answer about the signal ground, i thought the signal ground goes to the same ground as the stand alone. thats how i was understanding it, the other coil ground was to be near the coil "on the engine" as you stated. How about this, what pin number on the vipec are we talking about "signal ground"

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Guest |591|
This is the wiring for the coils.

LS1coilPinout.GIF

im rockin ls2 coils but its the same thing but backwards :P

so ground "as short as possible on engine"

Signal Ground "still at a loss where does this go.. pin A24?"

Trigger "stand alone ign output"

12V " ignition power"

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Guest |591|

i see you edited it last second :P cool i was right pin A24 FTW! lol well that is probably part of my problem then, will fix that probably tomorrow then. RAY thanks again for you help, you've taught me once again

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Guest |591|

ok thank you again. for whatever reason i like to have injector problems lol, but i've fixed the ground to A-24 and that solved the interference issue I was having, but no when testing injector pairs 1-4 "inj1" and 3-5 "inj3 they arent firing, but pairs 2-6 "inj2" is.

settings are peak 2amp hold .5amp

multi-point group

and inj 1-4 for active drives. wiring is correct, and all seem to be 13+V, i also made sure to check the battery this time lol, and they seem to be getting a signal to the plug.

while i was typing this out i came up with the idea to swap the injector plugs really quick to a non firing injector and i went to test it and the injector still didnt fire i swapped injector 2's plug to injector 1. does this mean i've fried my new injectors :(

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Guest |591|

Ok i will try these settings in a little, what should i consider max peak and hold? i was thinking about turning the settings up but i just didnt want to push it. And also besides being able to hear them open is there any other way of knowing that im at the right settings?

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Guest |591|

and also i dont know i didnt try this but i just swapped the working one to inj 1 plug and it got signal, so this tells me wiring isnt the issue, and im starting to believe that i finished off 4 injectors :( its just odd that they measure out 2.2ohms

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Guest |591|

and just because i like to post alot of things for visual purposes, i was just able to get 1-4 injectors working, how did i do it you may ask :) well as i turned up the peak and hold to 4 and 1 i could barley hear a pulsing sound, so i got curious and wondered maybe they were getting stuck from testing it dry all these times, so i tapped them a couple of time with a wrench while it was testing them and then tada i got 1 going so i went to the next and tada it worked to :) oh so happy, i gotta start getting fuel going though

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I should have remembered you are using a V44 with 2 x 2.2 ohm injectors and not the V88.

The V44 can drive 1 x 2.2 ohm injector, but not two. If you have damaged any thing it will be the drivers in the V44. The latest V44 has 4 amp injector drivers. Even one 2.2 ohm injector exceeds the amp ratting, but will be okay, but not two of them.

This is from the manual...

A 2.2Ω fuel injector is wired to an injection channel, the battery voltage is 13.5V. How much current will the injector draw?

Using the above equation -

Battery Voltage / Injector Impedance = Max Injection Current

13.5V / 2.2Ω= 6.1 Amps

Now with 2 x 2.2 ohm, the calculation is...

((13.5V / 2.2Ω) * 2) = 12.2 Amps

You are going to have to use other injectors or add a resister pack and select saturated. There are many big injectors available that are high impedance.

Ray.

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Guest |591|

so my choices are then

1. attempt to trade the low impedance injectors for high ones

2.wire in resistors. what size resistors? any online stores you can point me to? difficult?

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This is from the manual..

Two 2Ω fuel injectors are wired to an injection channel each with a 4.7Ω ballast resistor, the battery voltage is 12V.

What is the effective impedance of each fuel injector?

Effective Injector Impedance = Injector Impedance + Ballast Resistance

= 2Ω + 4.7Ω

= 6.7Ω

How much current will each injector draw?

Max Injection Current = Battery Voltage / Effective Injector Impedance

= 12V / 6.7Ω

= 1.79 A

How much current will flow into the injection channel (drive current)?

Drive Current = Injector 1 Current + Injector 2 Current + Injector 3 Current + …

= 1.79 + 1.79

= 3.58A

Based on this you need a 4.7 ohm 50w resistor each pair of injectors. Mouser or Digikey would sell them.

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