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Posted

Hey guys, new to the link ECU, (finally sold my haltech gear and changed to link after multiple rocker arms fails)

in the process of installing, I was told i could use all my haltech MAP, IAT, WIDEBAND, RACEPACK DASH etc.. with this ECU (s15 link plug in).

i also have the eflex sensor, oil temp sensor, and was hoping to install oil pressue as well

It seems the MAP sensor needs to be into An volt 3, can this be wired into the header pin old AFM wiring? or it seems to be needed to get the expansion harness, or is all is needed is to run a boost line off the manifold to the fitting inside? it was written as "wired" in point 4.1.1 (1) of manual, obviously this would be the easiest way if i just need to plug a vac line in.

im guessing i would need the expansion cable loom as well,

I assigned the following for it.

EX.3- DI6- eflex (haltech say it needs a DPI? should this work ok)

EX4- DI7- spare

EX5-An V5- WB ch1 An input to ECU  or is it easier to try convert the CAN haltech to the CAN link? 

EX6-An V6- oil pressure? cant find wiring diagram for these

EX7-An temp3- IAT

EX8- An temp4- Oil temp

 

not sure if i could adapt the link CAN to plug into my CAN BUS from haltech and run the Wideband/Racepac dash all togeather as haltech do? any one tried or is it worth just using the EX5 for the CH input for the wideband. asnd sell my dash and get a link ECU one (dash isn't too important at this stage.).

 

or have any tips 

 

thanks

Dean

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Map Sensor - this is internal to the ECU. The config will show it connected to AN V3, but physically you need to run a tee-d off boost/vacuum line to the ECU. If you want to use an external MAP sensor, change the anv3 config to none, and wire in the signal line from the external MAP sensor to any free AN channel/reuse the AFM channel like you suggested. (and obviously set this channel to MAP sensor + set the calibration)

canbus can certainly be used to receive the O2 sensor signals, and this is actually preferred over an Analog input as it prevents ground offset plus it gives you access to temp + error codes if the lambda controller sends them. The fact you previously had both modules on the same canbus means they should connect at the same bus speed. You will need to either configure your lambda controller to output message in "Link CAN-Lambda" format, or find/have a spec sheet of the messages it sends so you can configure the CAN receive channel in the Link to read the data.

the flex fuel sensor goes to any available DI, yes.

FYI the story on SR20 rocker arm failures seems to be that ignition cut limiters are a big cause of this. Either configure your limiters to kick in very gently, and/or use fuel cut as your rpm limiter method..

Posted
On 12/30/2019 at 9:20 AM, cj said:

Map Sensor - this is internal to the ECU. The config will show it connected to AN V3, but physically you need to run a tee-d off boost/vacuum line to the ECU. If you want to use an external MAP sensor, change the anv3 config to none, and wire in the signal line from the external MAP sensor to any free AN channel/reuse the AFM channel like you suggested. (and obviously set this channel to MAP sensor + set the calibration)

-yes ill go with this option, save some wiring in the bay,

On 12/30/2019 at 9:20 AM, cj said:

canbus can certainly be used to receive the O2 sensor signals, and this is actually preferred over an Analog input as it prevents ground offset plus it gives you access to temp + error codes if the lambda controller sends them. The fact you previously had both modules on the same canbus means they should connect at the same bus speed. You will need to either configure your lambda controller to output message in "Link CAN-Lambda" format, or find/have a spec sheet of the messages it sends so you can configure the CAN receive channel in the Link to read the data.

so would it be possible to get the link CAN harness, and splice it to the haltech harness to plug into the haltech can bus hub? as this would be better for the wideband as you stated? and configure the formats to work.

 

On 12/30/2019 at 9:20 AM, cj said:

 

 

On 12/30/2019 at 9:09 PM, Richard Hill said:

I think I made a link stream for the haltech wideband controller.  I will have a look. 

Regards, 

Richard. 

cheers mate, let me know

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Well, Wow, been a year and I still haven't got this done yet, hahah

 

almost got this thing done, just had no time, getting it running soon hopefully.

I am in need for a switched (-) from the ecu to trigger my thermo fan relay. ive only got expansion loom 1, running eflex, oil temp, oil pressure, IAT. 

I have also going to run the Boost controller off the ECU, 

 

I have been looking into the manual, it says in 8.1 that Aux 8 pin 114 is not connected, could this be used for boost or the relay control, 

also Aux 7 (waste gate solenoid) was this the factory control? as could it be used as the boost solenoid control. then I just get a +12V from the car straight to it, terminating the (-) to this wire/pin111 ?

 

thanks 

Posted
3 hours ago, 180sxdeano said:

I have been looking into the manual, it says in 8.1 that Aux 8 pin 114 is not connected, could this be used for boost or the relay control, 

Yes, can be used for either.  Also, Aux 6 on pin 102 is likely spare too. 

 

3 hours ago, 180sxdeano said:

also Aux 7 (waste gate solenoid) was this the factory control? as could it be used as the boost solenoid control. then I just get a +12V from the car straight to it, terminating the (-) to this wire/pin111 ?

I would expect if your car was originally a turbo model then it will already have wiring in the engine bay, normally just connect the new boost solenoid directly in place of the old one.  If you dont have existing wiring, then make sure the 12V feed that you get is an ignition switched source.   

Posted

Sorry mate, probably does your head in, are these the correct com port settings, in Auto it just keeps scanning,. When I plugged the USB in for the first time, it made the ding ding bleep (usb plugin sound) yet didn't come up with install drivers etc... @Adamw

IMG_20210106_161706.jpg

IMG_20210106_161715.jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, Adamw said:

Drivers look fine.  Can you show us the connection settings in PC link.  Is the ecu powered up?

Settings in link here,. Dose the ignition need to be on (reds)or just the accessories? 

My fuel lines are not finished and need to drain fuel, yet pump did energise when on for a second. 

IMG_20210106_203046.jpg

Posted
On 1/6/2021 at 8:39 PM, Adamw said:

Yes ignition needs to be on.  Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay to disable.

tested it out, pulled pump fuse, and it just says searching in orange, also it says searching even with the usb not in, as soon as I open link it says searching, only goes offonline when I select manual? 

Posted
21 hours ago, Adamw said:

If you pull the lid off the ecu case, is there a blue or green LED glowing when the ignition is on?

Yes solid, green led light

4 minutes ago, 180sxdeano said:

Yes solid, green led light

It may of been low battery? As I let it charge up overnight, and now it is connected to the link on the PC.  Also do I contact your guys or where I got it from? I brought it of CJ motor a while back.. 

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