Kenian Posted January 23, 2020 Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 Hi Guys, Just trying to figure out how to wire my new AEM X series wideband into my G4+ using the CAN output from the wideband controller. I am a complete newbie in regards to the CAN network. I am looking at purchasing the below harness from NZEFI but have a few questions:- https://www.nzefi.com/product/nzefi-link-g4-g4-plug-ecu-can-cable/ I am a little bit confused as to where the power and ground come into the picture? I was under the impression i could just wire the CAN High and CAN Low coming out of the controller to the CAN High and CAN Low coming out of the ECU harness (little white plug). Does the CANBUS system need power to work? If you have a read of the NZEFI link it says " In order to supply power and ground to the devices(s) on your CAN-bus, power and ground wires are also included in the loom in the form of a flying lead." What exactly does it mean by supply power and ground to the devices on your CANBUS? The wideband is already supplied with a power and ground. Also do i need to employ a 120 ohm terminating resistor or is this only used when you create a BUS with more than one device on the BUS? I have looked at the wideband manual and done a bit of Googling but had no luck finding a meaningful answer. Any help much appreciated. Thanks Kenian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 23, 2020 Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 The CAN H/L are the communication wires - these are the only 2 wires that get connected to the ECU. The Red/black are to supply power to the wideband controller, for these you need to find your own source in the car - normally would be connected to a relay/fuse that is only live when the ign switch is on. Yes, you should have a 120ohm terminating resistor connected across the Can H/L wires somewhere near the wideband connector. Kenian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenian Posted January 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 Thanks for your reply Adam. Just to clarify are you saying that the AEM can wiring should already have the terminating resistor in the harness or I will need to add in myself? Thanks Kenian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 23, 2020 Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 Sorry I didn’t write that very clear, you need to add your own resistor - it doesn’t have one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenian Posted January 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 Ok cool thanks for clearing that up Much appreciated!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dx4picco Posted May 15, 2020 Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 Quick question, I remember seeing this thread where the ppart number of the 5 pin white connector was given for the canpcb cable that plugs onto the ecu, but I can't seems to put my hand on it. Would you mind giving it again? edit: found it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rozsko Posted May 18, 2020 Report Share Posted May 18, 2020 https://shopbhp.com/collections/link-ecu-accessories/products/link-plugin-ecu-can-rs232-loom-connector-terminals dx4picco 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dx4picco Posted June 11, 2020 Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 So I've gave my first shot at CAN programming. I've read through the link documentation as well as the aem Xseries one (https://www.aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-0300 X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor Gauge.pdf) I've first integrated the lambda value, which I then see that there was a stream already defined, so double checked and I've remarked that in the doc they write .0001 lambda per bit, so for my understanding it would be a 10000 divider, but then in the predefined stream divider is 10. Could you please enlighten me why? then I wanted to integrate lambda error/status. what I found regarding the status is the following, the ecu is expecting these values: 1-off 2-disabled 3-initialising 4-calibration 5-heating 6-operating. So with the bit 48 of the xseries stream I can get "lambda data valid" that I woud like to translate as heating if 0 and operating if 1, hence the 5 offset. my last question is, what does the ECU expect on the "lambda 1 error (status)" can input? are these the same as the internal lambda controler? 0 no error and 17 for 17 Invalid Pump Current for example? test stream attached. edit: I did try it on the car without success. I disabled the AN volt 5 that was my previous Lambda1 input, tested both CAN streams (the one in can folder and my test stream) without success. I checked on the gauge and it was sending on ID 1 which corespond I believe to the extended 180 in the calibration file (see below) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rLMm8Jex7UlP3hQTVr5M4JD1kOSw1JXm/view?usp=sharing anything i'm doing wrong? no error reported in the runtime CAN window, all in green. thx first try xseries.lcs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 11, 2020 Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 Use the X-Series template that is included in the software. You will not be able to use the status or error data as AEM enumerations for status and errors are different to ours. You could input them as CAN AN Volt channels as a diagnostic if you really want to but it is unlikely useful. 9 hours ago, dx4picco said: I've remarked that in the doc they write .0001 lambda per bit, so for my understanding it would be a 10000 divider, but then in the predefined stream divider is 10. Link use a resolution 0.001 for lambda so there is already a native divider of 1000 built in to the software. AEM use 0.0001 resolution, hence divide the input by 10. You can use the test calculator to see how it works. 9 hours ago, dx4picco said: I checked on the gauge and it was sending on ID 1 which corespond I believe to the extended 180 in the calibration file (see below) ID should be 384 as per the help file article for the X-series. AEM use Hex, Link ID's are in decimal. 180 hex is 384 decimal. dx4picco 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dx4picco Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 I indeed overlooked the hex part of it. it does work with /10 and ID 384. However for the sake of it, I did try the thing with the status and It did work like I wanted to. Of course I only can get only 2 different status and not 6 like the can lambda, but I get the "heating status" and the 'operating" status thanks to the byte 48. Furthermore the error status seems also to be on OFF with value 0 on byte 57 so that seems also to corespond to what I thought. I couldn't get the aem to throw an error for now so I cannot say if the error status changes like it should. aerace_fab 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 47 minutes ago, dx4picco said: Furthermore the error status seems also to be on OFF with value 0 on byte 57 so that seems also to corespond to what I thought. As I said earlier you can use the test calculator to see how any CAN input or output works. The problem with the AEM device is when it goes into error condition it still outputs a lambda of 1.00 which is considered a valid lambda so the ECU will not disable CLL etc. I guess at least it will correct richer rather than leaner. The Link Lambda and most other 3rd party devices I know of all output Lambda = 0.0 when in error so the ECU knows its invalid and will either remove it from the lambda average calculation or disable CLL if there is only a single sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dx4picco Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 That makes sens. I thought the ECU would turn off CLL if the lambda 1 error status was different than 0 or 1. Thank you for the clarification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
180sxdeano Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 anyone know where to buy the 5 pin CAN plug? located in Australia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 Someone like Element 14 or RS components should have them within a couple of days, otherwise any Link dealer can get you a CANPCB next day. 180sxdeano 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocklizzard91 Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 I just saw that the resistor is required with even just one CAN device. I didn't do that but it does work. Is this bad to run like this? Should I change it ASAP? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 The CAN bus is more robust with proper termination. It will unlikely be a problem since you arent transmitting lots of data but if you start having comms problems that would be the first thing to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
180sxdeano Posted September 27, 2020 Report Share Posted September 27, 2020 On 9/13/2020 at 6:58 PM, Adamw said: Someone like Element 14 or RS components should have them within a couple of days, otherwise any Link dealer can get you a CANPCB next day. yeah thanks, I found CJ motors on eBay had them.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thpcars Posted December 2, 2023 Report Share Posted December 2, 2023 On 1/23/2020 at 12:23 AM, Adamw said: The CAN H/L are the communication wires - these are the only 2 wires that get connected to the ECU. The Red/black are to supply power to the wideband controller, for these you need to find your own source in the car - normally would be connected to a relay/fuse that is only live when the ign switch is on. Yes, you should have a 120ohm terminating resistor connected across the Can H/L wires somewhere near the wideband connector. Hey Adam! trying to wire the same sensor on my g4x hc20x. I took the wire diagram from AEM website and changed it a bit since is easier for me to understand that way. Question : - Would my resistor be at the right place ? (red resistor on the diagram connecting CAN HI/LO together right a the end of the wideband wires) Since I was thinking of using the "CAN connection cable for plugIn ECU's" to wire the wideband. - Can I use the 12V/Grnd on the CANJST4 to power the wideband? or do I absolutely need you wire on an other 12v ING source outside of the ecu like on the wiring diagram ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 2, 2023 Report Share Posted December 2, 2023 8 hours ago, thpcars said: Would my resistor be at the right place ? Yes, preferably close to the AEM device. 8 hours ago, thpcars said: Can I use the 12V/Grnd on the CANJST4 to power the wideband? The CAN JST4 can be used to supply the power to the AEM lambda. From memory I think the AEM device just comes with flying leads and doesnt actually have the 4 pin DTM connector already fitted, but just in case im remembering that wrong, be aware AEM use a different pinout convention in the DTM4 plug than link do, so make sure both sides are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thpcars Posted December 2, 2023 Report Share Posted December 2, 2023 4 minutes ago, Adamw said: Yes, preferably close to the AEM device. The CAN JST4 can be used to supply the power to the AEM lambda. From memory I think the AEM device just comes with flying leads and doesnt actually have the 4 pin DTM connector already fitted, but just in case im remembering that wrong, be aware AEM use a different pinout convention in the DTM4 plug than link do, so make sure both sides are the same. Yes you're right the device come with flying lead! Thank alot for the infos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted4g63 Posted March 19 Report Share Posted March 19 On 5/18/2020 at 8:08 AM, Rozsko said: https://shopbhp.com/collections/link-ecu-accessories/products/link-plugin-ecu-can-rs232-loom-connector-terminals Thats a joke, who in the right mind is going to pay 80+ dollars for that plug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dx4picco Posted March 19 Report Share Posted March 19 15€ ain't 80$ mate or I may buy a whole lot of stuff from the US! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 19 Report Share Posted March 19 It is not a Link product either so not sure how the cost of an electrical connector in a UK webstore is even relevant to this forum. It shows NZD$23 for me which doesnt seem out of this world. You will possibly be able to get them cheaper from a wholesaler in smaller qty's now if you are not in a hurry, but 2 years ago when that was posted, those were very hard to find, if you did actually find a wholesaler with any stock, then you would have had to buy something like 1000 housings and a full reel of terminals. Boosted4g63 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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