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RB25DET S2 wiring in IAT sensor and MAC Boost Solenoid


eRRfhang

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Hey,

New here,

I have an RB25det S2 transferred to an R34 coupe and wanting to wire in my  IAT sensor and MAC Boost solenoid,

I am deleting the AFM as wont need it now, what wires can i use to wire these 2 items in with?

i know that the ECU pin 25 is for one wire on the Boost solenoid but which wire? i have 2,  black and black with white writing..

ideally i would like to use the wiring that is already in the loom from either of the wires below ( as its for a drift car so not needed and can re locate the pin out on the ecu)

powersteering cable is not used and all the AFM cables not used ( 3pin pink AFM)

any help is appreciated.

 

thanks Cole!

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So is this a GTS/GTR ecu or the R34 GTT ecu?

For the boost solenoid they are not polarity sensitive so it doesnt matter which wire gets connected to the ECU, the second wire needs to be connected to a +12V source that is only live when the ign switch is on.  

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If you want to use existing wiring for the IAT then probably the easiest option is at the ecu connector pull the AFM signal wire out of pin 27 and move it to pin 36.  Pin 36 is AN Temp 2.  Then in the engine bay connect your temp sensor to the AFM signal and AFM ground wires.

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Awesome thank you so much @Adamw really appreciate it! 

One more question, i have electric fans  and they are on a switch (its a drift car) i am wanting to try and use the ecu to turn on the fans once the ecu reads a certain temperature (maybe 85-90 degrees celcius???)  

What is the easiest way to achieve this? For the wiring side of it and inputting it on the G4+

 

Thanks!

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I have connected my IAT sensor to afm signal and afm ground and moved pin 27 to 36 as per @Adamw and seems allgood, i now am looking at PC link and the IAT sensor is showing 100 degress celcius!? 

I believe i have the right settings?

So i have alocated an temp2 as inlet air temp..

0.05v is error low

4.95 is error high

Error value is 100°C

Pull up resistor is 1 kOhm (internal) 

And

Sensor type is Link NTC1-8 and IAT1-8 

Also note i have a fault code AN T2 at 5V

Wondering if this means anything?

 

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Worked it out and i wired it the wrong way round DOH! 

No faults! Beauty... 

Went to go start it after calibrating it all and wont start, log file attached..

Only thing i can think is the trigger kit, i have wired as per supplier.. similar to the nz wiring kit only difference, is you have to wire the reluctor yourself as per attached.. 

Also have attached settings i have put in to the link g4+

The car sounded like it fired but just not on the right timing... 

Where should i start?

logfile.jpg

Screenshot_20200301-180032_Messenger.jpg

received_488872508673542.jpeg

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On 3/8/2020 at 8:13 PM, Adamw said:

You will need to set the base timing using a timing light.  Instructions are in the help file:   G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Triggers > Calibrate

We did this and went into the base map timing with a timing light and was close to starting but couldnt get it to go..

whilst we are doing the base timing calibration should the car start? 

We are getting 1 or 2 pops after 4 or 5 seconds of cranking over. 

The trigger kit is definately reading rpm but not starting.  Unsure what i may be doing wrong? As i had the stock ecu in it rb25det s2 and it ran fine... only things i have changed is the link ecu g4+, link iat sensor, trigger kit new spark plugs and boost solenoid... 

Hmmm...

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It will only start if the timing is already close enough.  Since you have completely changed the trigger that is unlikely.

So you need to set the timing while it is cranking on the starter motor, not running.  You can disconnect the coils or pull fuel pump relay out or whatever so it doesnt fire when you are setting timing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

MAC boost solenoid not working? Have checked that there is power and am sure that the other wire is plugged in pin25 which is wastegate solenoid on stock ecu and aux 8 on link g4+ how do i check this? As when i go into aux 8 and try and test the PWM is doesnt work!? 

Anything i am missing?

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If the wiring is correct then if you set aux 8 to "test PWM" and set the frequency to 10Hz -20Hz you show here it clicking fast.  If you dont hear it click then you have something wrong with the wiring.  Pin 25 is correct.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 3/4/2020 at 9:33 AM, Simon said:

You will need a free Aux output that can then be set as engine fan. This will then provide a ground to turn on a relay that controls the fans. 

Pin 9 might be a good option if you are not running AC.

Have set up the ecu to turn on the fans using pin 9 which is sweet, im now trying to use a aux output to set up a similar setup (engine fan3) and set temp at certain temp so it then grounds the pin, im going to wire this to my temp warning light so it works in the same way, but as i was testing the rest of the free aux's it was not working on the software, aux 1 was red and wouldnt let me edit it (also on the pinout diagram it was showing 2x aux 1s).

No aux 5 either on the pinout and all the other aux's are taken by CE light, Tacho, etc.. 

 

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I wouldnt set the aux up as a fan, as when it turns on it will increase idle speed for the fan load.  Instead set the aux up as a GP output then set the condition that you want to turn it on.  Look at aux 7 in the GTS base map as an example, it turns on the CE light if temp goes above 102C or if the boost goes above 230Kpa.

 

2 hours ago, eRRfhang said:

but as i was testing the rest of the free aux's it was not working on the software, aux 1 was red and wouldnt let me edit it (also on the pinout diagram it was showing 2x aux 1s).

Red means you are not connected to an ECU.  Aux 1 is connected to two pins. Make sure the alternative pin doesnt have a wire connected to it.

 

 

 

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