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My turn to ask a question!

Edit: figured it out, see the reply below.  In short, Link's working fine, but still learned something today!

On this new installation with a G2 Xtreme and twin CAN-Lambdas, Lambda worked for a full 5 minutes, they stopped reporting and started throwing up errors.  Here's the situation.

  1. Voltage across Power and Ground on CAN-Lambda devices:  Solid 13V+ at all times.
  2. No CAN bus errors. Bus resistance is 70ohm with a 120ohm resistor at each end.  Seems a bit high - I would expect closer to 60 but again no errors.image.thumb.png.776da08168f591420260b71c97598802.png
  3. On both Lambda 1 and Lambda 2, I get alternating 16 "Heated too long" and 33 "Open Circuit APE-IPE" errors.  While error 16 is present, both report roughly 500C sensor temps (I understand they should run about 780) which climb and then fail.image.thumb.png.46bd71716297c241cd92858723270e21.png
  4. Sensor are mounted properly; pointed down vertically.
  5. Sensors and Lambda/CAN devices are brand new from Link, ordered in the last 2 months, never used before.  The motor has probably run with the sensors in it for 20 minutes.
  6. Current ECU firmware information
    ECU firmware version     :
    Bootcode Version            : 1.9
    Board S/N                     : 53842
    ECU type                      : 12
  7. Can-Lambdas are PCB Rev 1.2
  8. UPDATE:  Upgraded firmware to 5.6.7, same issues.
  9. Update 2:  for no apparent reason they both got to 780 finally, but Lambda 1 is.... wack:

Ideas? Log file attached



apex speed technology



lambda issue 9146.llg

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Nope, even easier.  The car has individual throttle bodies with idle bleeds going to a common manifold.  The mechanic who assembled everything left a large (8mm) vacuum port open under bank 1 which caused a huge leak, which he compensated for by adjusting the blades so one bank was completely sealed off while the other was drawing air through the leak.  That bank was getting so much air the car still idled at 1500 RPM with 0 degrees of timing only running on 1/2 its cylinders.

I got thrown off because I didn't realize the lambda heaters needed exhaust temp to help them get to 780 before they'd time out.

Either way I learned something today:  A non-firing bank on Link won't just read "off the scale lean" but will not allow the heater to reach temp in time.



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I suspect you may find you still have an intermittent issue.  They can be sensitive if connected to a circuit in the car that has significant inductive noise, for instance the same relay as the idle solenoid or VVT.  The usual symptom of this problem is error 16, 33 and or 34 so Im suspicious that may be what you are seeing.  I have never had any drama due to lack of exhaust heat - I regularly use them in a tailpipe sniffer on the dyno etc.  As Ducie54 suggested, connected direct to the battery if possible, if not then the 22uF cap as shown in the quick start guide will usually fix it. 

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Thanks Adam.  It was rock solid once we fixed the intake leak and re-sync'd the throttle bodies, I probably ran the car for another 30 min like that. 

They do share power with a 3 wire IAC value, but the controllers are conveniently mounted right next to the battery.  So I'll just add a relay and fuse directly to the battery and use the existing +12V that's shared with the IAC on the term 85 side, with the term 86 side to ground.  See any issues with that?



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