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2JGE-Turbo No spark ??? Link G4+


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just bought a link ecu g4+ and was going through start up guide. MY build is 2jzge- turbo Supra JDM 1993 , map sensor calibrated, tps not calibrated (wiring issues). when i crank the engine there is no spark from main coil going to distributor cap. Originally running a piggyback system with the Aristo 2JZGTE ecu which was running fine,  unplugged earlier today, current ignition module is rewired to work with distributor because the 2jzGTE uses COP instead of distributor (old setup). In the ignition settings neither direct spark or distributor have any spark. also unsure about what trigger setup to use, when cranking trigger signal status 1 is on/active

Was previously running fine before installing new ecu

 

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The first step is do you see realistic RPM in the software when cranking 200-250RPM?

Can you explain the ignition system better.  Are you using just one channel of a 6 channel ignitor to fire a single coil?  Those 6 channel 2J ignitors dont like driving much current so I suspect it may not like driving a single coil.  Does the coil continuously spark if you set ign 1 into test mode?

Can you attach your tune also.

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how to i see realist rpm? just seeing if the rpm  is moving at all in the software? think it uses the signal from 1 for all 6? when i go to test the igniter in test mode it doesnt spark. diagram below is how i had it wried up. I think i do have the original 2JZ GE 4 pin ignitor around

Toyota Supra.pclr

 

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That diagram is wrong.  There should only be one wire from ignitor T1 to ECU pin B57, none of those red wires should be there.  

For RPM you can look in the runtimes screen (F12), triggers/limits tab and you should see about 200-250RPM when cranking if you have the trigger settings correct.  Also check Engine kill is off at the bottom.

8B8LpGR.png

 

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Ok, so you still have a wiring problem somewhere.  I notice on your wiring picture above the igniter doesnt have a ground pin/wire, this means it most ground through its body/bolt holes - Do you have it bolted on to a clean ground when testing?

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Currently setup old igniter (comes stock with car) as far as I can tell the grounds are good. The previous igniter I had in actually had a ground wire but it was tucked underneath. The current stock igniter might ground through the body but seems to be good 

 

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In this photo here:

lU2zq9v.jpg

What are you trying to show here?  Is that Pin 1?  Pin 1 is the IGF signal which the Link ECU doesnt even use.

 

Can you confirm the important ones;

Igniter Pin 2 goes to Ign 1 on the ECU (B57).  

Pin 3 goes to +12V.

Pin 5 goes to coil -ve.

 

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Screenshot_20200505-162114_Gallery.thumb.jpg.6cebd34e69610a6a8e9e38debd509929.jpg

32 minutes ago, Adamw said:

In this photo here:

lU2zq9v.jpg

What are you trying to show here?  Is that Pin 1?  Pin 1 is the IGF signal which the Link ECU doesnt even use.

 

Can you confirm the important ones;

Igniter Pin 2 goes to Ign 1 on the ECU (B57).  

Pin 3 goes to +12V.

Pin 5 goes to coil -ve.

 

-pin 2 is confirmed

Pin 3 is confirmed both have +12v ?

What is -ve ?

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Im not sure of pin numbering to be honest, my manual does not make it real clear but I think the loom side would be considered female in Toyotas terminology so the pic below is looking into the terminal side of the connector.  In other words it is opposite of what you show. 

zLnf7VX.png

YhGGbYZ.png

wEGf5Xl.png

 

22 minutes ago, don17 said:

I think stock is grounded through body

No, the coil negative must definitely be connected to the igniter, that is what the actual igniter switches on/off. 

 

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