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dx4picco

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With G4+ a MAP is the easiest option.  For an idle valve with ITB's you need some kind of common manifold for the valve so you can just attach your MAP to that.  Load equation set to MAP will take care of baro at the same time too.  I have done this on a few cars now and it works well.  With G4X an alternative option to using MAP to compensate for the idle air is you can use a 4D fuel table with idle position on one axis.  It would be a bit more work to calibrate the table though. 

 

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It is a g4+ extreme on a Euro s50b32. Car runs for now without vanos as we still have load of wiring work to do. 

So there is a balance bar indeed and we teed onto the fuel pressure reg line for the map signal. I didn't think that the tps fuel table and map in load equation would take BAP change into consideration. 

Map is like 70+ at idle and 55 on overrun! Pretty new to me haha

Now that you say it I remember that a coefficient like map/100 comes into play here. 

All good there then. I had a weakness moment :D

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  • 1 month later...

I cannoy for the sake of me find why the can 2 is not etting the lambda going on that one.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MeuzUVBzB5Md6_Xl-fBzeN0hYE_2mGOR/view?usp=sharing

it must be something stupid that I din't check.

DI 9-10 are off, can 2 is active. no error in can 2 runtime, pcb ver. 1.7 on Xtrem+

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  • 5 months later...

So I have finally been able to get the S50b32 under the knife! with the double vanos activated this time.

For that part it went very smooth, trigger put on s52 I think, then double vanos. I had to adjust the ignition angle setup a bit. 

for that I had to change the idle valve to a 2 wire one (bmw M42 one). put that on aux 6. small issue there, we got too much flow going through the valve and idle sits high. but that is about the only problem we got :)

got to use a canchecked md15 too. nice bit of kit, but some more fiddling to do to get it transmit lambda target for ex. 

A question for you, how is the VSS supposed to be wired there (on e36 chassis with custom engine loom but stock chassis harness)? and the setup? I sent the vehicle speed sensor pin from the X20 chassis plug to a DI on the ECU as RR wheel speed. tried different pullups and edge but showing 0Hz in runtime. Tacho is reading correctly in the car.

 

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On the E36 plug-in the speed signal comes from the instrument cluster.  This would most likely be a signal that have been processed into a square wave.  Im not sure what type of sensor the VSS sensor is, you may need to get a scope on it to see what sort of signal it is outputing.  

jKQNxGi.png

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  • 5 months later...

one more question :D

http://vems.hu/download/InputDrivers/EGT_AMP/Specs.html

I got this egt probe and amp on our gc8 track car. the sensor is mounted where the front O2 sensor would be on a newage manifold. I am seeing quite high values (north of 900 up to 950) under heavy load.

Can someone confirm the calibration I should use on there? 234°/V or 243°/V?

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  • 6 months later...

Hello there :)

I am looking to change the exhaust manifold of the track car. currently it has the VEMS amp and EGT in it.

I plan on putting that manifold on another engine with the EGT and hence need to get another one for the new manifold.

Something I am quite confused about is this sensor wire thing. 

Is it possible to solder link 101-0146 EGT onto the VEMS EGT amplifier (DSUB9)?

I know when you want to lengthen the sensor wires, you need to use specific ones, and also specific contact materials. Is there anything to be taken care of when "soldering" the EGT sensor wires to the amp? will this mess the readings up if I solder it with tin/lead/flux? or is that all good?

thank you

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Sorry I missed this post.  Yes that will be fine.  

Since your "junction" of dissimilar metals in this case is on the amplifier board which has a temp sensor on it, any dissimilar metal junctions at or near the board can be compensated for with what is known as "cold junction compensation".  The main thing you need to be careful of is a connection in the thermocouple wires somewhere away from the cold junction compensation temp sensor - for example if the amplifier was in the cabin but you had a connection in the cable somewhere in the engine bay, in this case you have a junction that is at an unknown temperature so would need to be made from the correct metals. 

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