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Crank Sensor Trigger 1 output


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BMW S54 conversion in E36 ran last week with V88. I was cutting out wires from old OEM harness for cleanup. Now it won’t start. I am brand new to ViPec system. Purchased car this way. I am not seeing any voltage from Trigger 1 signal wire with ignition on. I checked at crank sensor connector and cut into wire 2” from V88 pinout. Shouldn’t I be getting similar 5V as Trigger 2 cam sensor?  

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7 hours ago, Cemicks said:

Shouldn’t I be getting similar 5V as Trigger 2 cam sensor?  

No, those engines have a reluctor (VR) sensor on the crank so they are not powered - they generate their own voltage when the teeth move past the sensor.  

The cam sensor is probably hall effect so it will likely be powered (12V) on one pin and often a 5V pull up on another.  

Does the ECU power up (laptop connect)?  Do you get RPM displayed in the software when cranking?

 

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4 hours ago, Adamw said:

Does the ECU power up (laptop connect)?  Do you get RPM displayed in the software when cranking?

Thank you for your quick response.  Thought I was onto my problem.  Yes, the cam sensor is powered by 12V along with the 5V pin.  I rotated the motor and saw that working correctly.  I can connect via laptop and will check this evening for rpm.  I cannot imagine that any of the wires I removed would have caused this.  They were all (I second guess myself now) cut and bundled by the previous owner when he did the motor and ECU conversion.  If no rpm seen on laptop I assume the sensor is the culprit.  If rpm is seen, what would I look for next?  Is there a test for power to the injectors or igniters I can do?  

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Yes, RPM will confirm if the problem is related to triggers or not.  If you have RPM then I would suggest doing a short log of it cranking and attach it here so we can see if there are any other clues.

 

7 hours ago, Cemicks said:

Is there a test for power to the injectors or igniters I can do?  

Yes there are injector and ignition test functions in the software.

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2 hours ago, Adamw said:

Yes, RPM will confirm if the problem is related to triggers or not.  If you have RPM then I would suggest doing a short log of it cranking

Yes rpm confirmed. Now I’ll have to figure out how to log. What should be included?  Sorry all new to me. My good intentions of cleaning up unused wires has put me back a bit.   Attached and fingers crossed

Log 8-07-20 7;56;39 pm.llg

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Most of the basics are working in that log so it would be a good idea to try the injector test and ignition test to confirm your injectors are clicking and you have spark.

Even though RPM is reading mostly right, there is one big spike at the start of cranking and trigger errors are clocking up.  So that may still indicate there is potentially a trigger issue too.  You would really need an oscilloscope to confirm that so start with the injector/ign test first.  Also pull a plug out and make sure it is sparking when cranking.  

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Testing is complete.  All 6 injectors clicked.  No ignition spark from any spark plugs...but i found my problem.  The previous owner installed a relay to power the coils.  The car has a power on and fuel pump on toggle and I found a broken wire from the fuel pump on relay going to the relay that powers the coils.  The relay should have switched when I powered on the fuel pump but did not.  As soon as I forced the relay I had spark....then the engine started once I reassembled the stuff I had taken apart looking for the problem.  I learned a lot in this process and feel more comfortable with what I have.  This started out with me trying to reduce the wire clutter.  Now I know the wires I removed were not the problem so I will continue simplifying the remnants.  Pictures attached of what we were working on.  Should be able to make it to Watkins Glen in New York state this coming Monday.  Thanks again for the support.  All my work buddies (mates) have been told about then customer service you provide.

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