Evo IX vs Link G4+

[StasAnanas]

Hello, I apologize for creating a new topic and many problems may recur. I am the owner of Evo IX, many problems have already been solved thanks to the forum. Thank you for the answers so stated.
Now I am indecisive, or rather I cannot know where to look for answers, oem map sensor has been replaced with omni 4 bar, tell me the settings should I choose 4 bar? Or tare differently?

[Adamw]

Just choose "4 Bar" in the MAP sensor calibration, the Omni sensor matches the Link 4Bar calibration.

[StasAnanas]

Hello friends, during the construction of the car, the firmware is being built, it's time to turn on MIVEC, I found a problem that in the F12 status window at the DI1 input - OFF and I do not receive data from it, it is still OFF, I thought maybe for this reason it does not work for me MIVEC, I checked the wire with a tester, there is a signal from the chip to the brain, but the solenoid and the sensor are not controlled. I would be grateful for your thoughts.

MIVEC.llg

[Adamw]

I suspect it will just be your DI offset set wrong.  Follow the instructions in the help file for the cam angle test.  (G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > VVT Control > Tuning VVT Control > Cam Angle Test)

 

Run the test on LH Inlet, with a test pulse count of 4, record the lowest cam angle number displayed in the runtimes screen and use this for your offset on DI 1. 

Report back if that solves it. 

[StasAnanas]

On 31.08.2020 at 10:58, Adamw said:

Я подозреваю, что это просто неправильное смещение вашего DI. Следуйте инструкциям в файле справки для проверки угла кулачка. (Функции настройки G4 + ECU> Управление VVT> Настройка управления VVT> Проверка угла кулачка)

 

Запустите тест на впуске LH с количеством тестовых импульсов 4, запишите наименьшее число угла кулачка, отображаемое на экране времени выполнения, и используйте его для своего смещения на DI 1. 

Сообщите, если это решит проблему. 

As always, thank you very much for the direction on the right path, the phase to move, the system came to life ...

[StasAnanas]

Hello, link fight time. It took a long time and it turned out to make the ride and blow successfully into the engine. But I sometimes have problems with the cards, I can't understand what the problem is, the point is that I can open and configure the card for example for gp pwm cooling control, then switch it to off mode. but after that, when I open the map in the anti-lag, a similar map is displayed there, as if I had configured it there in advance.

 

I also had an open question about the choice of the base. I decided to update the program as I was using the previous version. Evo 9 PCB V 1.6+ is offered and there is also an Evo 9 version. They differ in the "main board revision" version. My revision on the board has an inscription v1.5 and the bottom v1.8

[Adamw]

4 hours ago, StasAnanas said:

I can't understand what the problem is, the point is that I can open and configure the card for example for gp pwm cooling control, then switch it to off mode. but after that, when I open the map in the anti-lag, a similar map is displayed there, as if I had configured it there in advance.

Im not quite sure I understand what you are trying to do - when you enable a table, the ECU pulls the first free GP table that it has available, that may be the same table you just turned off from the other function.  Normally you should choose "Yes" when the message asks if you want to clear the table and set the axes to defaults.

 

4 hours ago, StasAnanas said:

I also had an open question about the choice of the base. I decided to update the program as I was using the previous version. Evo 9 PCB V 1.6+ is offered and there is also an Evo 9 version. They differ in the "main board revision" version. My revision on the board has an inscription v1.5 and the bottom v1.8

You should use the base map named "Mitsubishi EVO 9 PCB V1.6+ G4+ Xtreme Plugin", the Version number refers to the bottom board revision.  The difference is some of the aux outputs have been shuffled a little as the later bottom boards support E-throttle.  

[StasAnanas]

On 11/18/2020 at 1:20 AM, Adamw said:

Im not quite sure I understand what you are trying to do - when you enable a table, the ECU pulls the first free GP table that it has available, that may be the same table you just turned off from the other function.  Normally you should choose "Yes" when the message asks if you want to clear the table and set the axes to defaults.

 

You should use the base map named "Mitsubishi EVO 9 PCB V1.6+ G4+ Xtreme Plugin", the Version number refers to the bottom board revision.  The difference is some of the aux outputs have been shuffled a little as the later bottom boards support E-throttle.   

Thanks for the clarification, but you all understood me correctly. It is a pity that it is impossible to streamline Table Allocation

[StasAnanas]

Please tell me so that the ECU understands the state of the air-fuel ratio, I connected Aem UEGO 30-0300 through the analog output to the ECU, but I doubt if I did the right thing to set up Lambda 1 using Cal Table 1 and did the calibration. Or I can simply select the AEM X-SERIES VEGO GAUGE option in the Lambda 1 settings.

[Adamw]

35 minutes ago, StasAnanas said:

Or I can simply select the AEM X-SERIES VEGO GAUGE

This would be the easiest option.  A custom cal table will work - but not needed in this case.

[StasAnanas]

On 8/31/2020 at 10:58 AM, Adamw said:

I suspect it will just be your DI offset set wrong.  Follow the instructions in the help file for the cam angle test.  (G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > VVT Control > Tuning VVT Control > Cam Angle Test)

 

Run the test on LH Inlet, with a test pulse count of 4, record the lowest cam angle number displayed in the runtimes screen and use this for your offset on DI 1. 

Report back if that solves it. 

I couldn't deal with MIVEK. The error counter continued to count. When I did cam angle test as shown in the video, it took the lowest value, but there was still a warning about Inlet / LH Signal Error: Missing pulses and continued to count errors.

I have rechecked the wiring several times. The gear rotates when the motor is running. But it worries when there are errors. I tried to collect my stupidity into a fist, that during the assembly I made a mistake put the trigger incorrectly, then I tried to change the angle to a larger one, but reviewing the video I realized that I had calculated the turnover incorrectly, I needed not 360 degrees but 180 and I had to try 180-56 = 124 degrees. But nothing useful came out. I am experiencing

 

[Adamw]

There appears to be something wrong with your intake cam wheel.  It should have 4 teeth on it with about 180 deg angle between each tooth.  But your cam angle test is only reporting 3 angles, 56,420,600.   So pull the cover of your intake cam sensor and have a look, it seems maybe it is modified or broken?

If the wheel looks ok, then maybe the sensor is failing, you could try swapping with exhaust sensor as a test.

It should look like below:

[StasAnanas]

On 11/21/2020 at 3:04 AM, Adamw said:

There appears to be something wrong with your intake cam wheel.  It should have 4 teeth on it with about 180 deg angle between each tooth.  But your cam angle test is only reporting 3 angles, 56,420,600.   So pull the cover of your intake cam sensor and have a look, it seems maybe it is modified or broken?

If the wheel looks ok, then maybe the sensor is failing, you could try swapping with exhaust sensor as a test.

It should look like below:

Thank you, most likely thanks to you I found the reason, my EVO had a sensor marking on the intake trigger like an exhaust, the distance to the trigger is very large, apparently this is a problem, I will look for my sensor

[StasAnanas]

Hello, tell me please, I can not defeat the problem, or rather find its position, direction ... When driving, the car does not feel bad, but it still sags, but with active driving and switching to neutral from any gear, the car tends to stall ..
Of course, I have a GSC S3 shaft, but I managed to set up a smooth and accurate idle, although sometimes problems arise.
I will attach my assembly and some kind of log (I do not recommend anyone to use it, since I am not a professional tuner, but I am just an interested hobby)
In this log "Log 2020-11-26 1;15;18 am", you can also see the throttle valve error, time 52:20, which often bothers me. I am using the accelerator and accelerator pedal on the Evo X, but when partially opened, the turbine jumps on the jumps and this leads to an error. Maybe there will be some considerations. Thanks.
I think you will not be surprised that I dashed off there, it is difficult for us with fuel, but I have an EVO and only RON 95 (MON 85-86) is available at the nearest gas station

I completely forgot. I can't seem to find a way out in a problem like launch-control. I specify all the parameters so that it turns on and works thanks to the clutch switch and the rule for working up to 5 km / h. But it continues to activate even when I'm on the go. I checked through f12 and the clutch switch works as needed and the speed is registered. I considered this to be a software problem or my PC, but after collecting all the software twice, step by step, filling in the parameters, I made sure that the problem did not go away.

Thank you, I will be glad to hear your opinion and recommendations.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YzqTMOsSRIHN5RCcXYBHJ0lyxx9Ef0fK/view?usp=sharing

Mitsubishi EVO 9 PCB V1.6+ G4+ Xtreme Plugin.pclr

[Adamw]

Try the file below.

I have made some changes to the idle speed control settings as well as idle ignition.  Idle base position table may now not be perfect for cold start/fast idle since there was no cold running in the logs, but you can adjust that yourself later. 

The E-throttle oscillation means the PID is not correct.  I have lowered Proportional and Integral a little, see if this helps.

The launch control is not disarming because you need a "non-driven" wheel speed assigned.  I have now assigned that in the speed sources menu so that should work now.  

You can use the file compare function in the software to see all the changes I made.  

 

MitsubishiEVO9PCBV1.6G4XtremePlugin V1.1.pclr

[StasAnanas]

21 hours ago, Adamw said:

Try the file below.

I have made some changes to the idle speed control settings as well as idle ignition.  Idle base position table may now not be perfect for cold start/fast idle since there was no cold running in the logs, but you can adjust that yourself later. 

The E-throttle oscillation means the PID is not correct.  I have lowered Proportional and Integral a little, see if this helps.

The launch control is not disarming because you need a "non-driven" wheel speed assigned.  I have now assigned that in the speed sources menu so that should work now.  

You can use the file compare function in the software to see all the changes I made.  

 

MitsubishiEVO9PCBV1.6G4XtremePlugin V1.1.pclr 167 kB · 3 downloads

Ooops, how could I have missed this that did not bring the speed. I pondered but did not know where it is located. Thank you for the direction. The throttle problem didn't visit me anymore! Hooray! Hooray! It was so nice to move today! The car sometimes continues to stall after running out, but I think I'll figure it out, you directed me. Thank You

[StasAnanas]

Hello . There are days off and time to move on. I ask for help with solving the issue ...
I saw on the forum how many people use the OEM EVO knock sensor. With him I figured out how to set it up and so that he would give me information not about noise, but about blows. But I also got an idea whether to switch to the wide sensor 0261231045 BOSCH.
I cannot understand what its advantages will be, whether I will get a benefit, or do you recommend staying better with the OEM?

Thank you for the information and help.

[Adamw]

The OEM sensor works fine, I have never seen any back to back comparison but havent seen a need to change from the OEM sensor on Evo 7+

[StasAnanas]

3 minutes ago, Adamw said:

The OEM sensor works fine, I have never seen any back to back comparison but havent seen a need to change from the OEM sensor on Evo 7+

Thank you Adam. But I meant whether I should have a broadband sensor. I gave his number in the spare parts catalog.
Will I be able to use OEM to listen to sound in other cylinders?

[Adamw]

I highly doubt you will see any difference.  I would only change from the factory sensor if you have changed something mechanically that significantly affects the engines knock signature - for instance bore or stroke etc.  If you have an audio knock device you can perform frequency analysis on a recording to confirm if the factory sensor is suitable.

[StasAnanas]

On 2/2/2021 at 2:27 AM, Adamw said:

I highly doubt you will see any difference.  I would only change from the factory sensor if you have changed something mechanically that significantly affects the engines knock signature - for instance bore or stroke etc.  If you have an audio knock device you can perform frequency analysis on a recording to confirm if the factory sensor is suitable.

Yes, I changed the cylinder diameter, 85.5mm.

I understand that you need to calculate the frequency mathematically. It will be exactly 6.7kHz. Did the calculation according to the formula f (kHz) = 900 / (Pi * r)

And now, having counted, I understand what you also recommend, put 6kHz and use better OEM? Is this a confident setting? Or you need to choose 7kHz?

But that's not all, after a while I would like to install a new unit in my evo. 2.1 liters are collected on the table, and this is a 156mm connecting rod and a 87mm piston