SodaRabbit Posted August 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 I'm assuming it's wasted spark because it's a complete 1jzgte vvt-i motor. I don't have a timing light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 31, 2020 Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 The wasted spark coils look like below, 3 of the spark plugs have a short HT lead from the coil to the plug, the other 3 spark plugs the coil sits directly on top. Do the injectors look like any of these: Or this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted August 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 Its definitely the bottom most injector you sent. It is for sure wasted coil sparks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 31, 2020 Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 Ok, with injectors that small I expect the master fuel will need to be quite a bit bigger. Try changing it to about 25ms and see if there are any signs of life when cranking. If no signs of life then pull a spark plug out and check there is spark when cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted August 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 So I changed it to 25ms and nothing still. I attached the log. I'm going to check the spark I have tester for that. I ran the test it does indeed have spark. PC Datalog - 2020-08-31 10;21;20 am set to master fuel 25ms.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 Ok, typically if you have fuel and spark at somewhere near the right time there will be some signs of life when cranking. Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn ignition on? Are the spark plugs wet with fuel if you pull them out after a start attempt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted October 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 Sorry for the delayed response. So I went ahead and attempted to start the vehicle with the stock 2jz ecu and it fired up so I knew something was up with the ECU. I sent it back to Excessive Manufacturing so the could diagnose it on one of their cars, they had no luck. Apparently over 20 of the ECU's they have in stock are having issues. They told me last Friday a Link liaison was sent to figure what's going on. I haven't had an update since. Its been a very frustrating situation considering its been over a month now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 It sounds like someone may be feeding you a bit of a story? I had a brief chat to our USA office on Friday, none of them knew anything about this claim of 20 "faulty ecu's", or had any knowledge of anyone waiting for a "Link liasion" to visit Xcessive. The last support case we have logged in the support system for Xcessive was back in January and it was not for a faulty ECU. Our USA manager called Xcessive to query your problem and I didnt get a detailed story but it sounds like they believe they have a problem in their adapter harness? So as far as I can gather at this time it is not us that has been holding your job up. Does your car have an adapter harness? What model car is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted November 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 So long story short they sent me a ECU that was working in one of their cars so that's what I got right now. When I try to start it just clicks once but nothing more. I got the TPS calibrated. The tube that runs out of the ECU was not long enough but I don't know if that's necessary to just start it or even crank tried anyways without it. Have a couple errors I attached thanks and sorry for the confusion and delay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 Try clearing those errors and tell us which ones come back, there is no way to know if those are historic errors from when you had something unplugged in the past or whether they are current errors. The ECU doesnot control the starter motor, so if it doesnt crank over you have a wiring problem or flat battery etc. You will need the MAP sensor connected for it to run, but it wont prevent it from cranking over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted November 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 I'm thinking the battery is possibly too low even though I've had it hooked up to a battery maintainer. Would it be fine trying to start with a jumper cable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 36 minutes ago, SodaRabbit said: Would it be fine trying to start with a jumper cable? Yes fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted November 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2020 Update! I was able to get it started I only let it run for a little while. Since then I setup all the intercooler piping just waiting on two couplers then I'll start it again and see how it run. I have the MAP tubing now and that should be good. I was going to hook up the SCG-1 fully with boost control but as of now only wideband is hooked up. Right now my priority is to get it moving to another parking lot down the road because I have people complaining about it. My question is will I be okay with running this thing for a short time just down the road? Also is a rimming light required to set the timing or does the ecu adjust automatically? I will include a log of it idling when I get those couplers on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 20, 2020 Report Share Posted November 20, 2020 Should be ok to drive gently if you follow the "first time startup" section of the manual - which includes checking the base timing with a timing light and adjusting the master fuel so it runs ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted November 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2020 Okay so I started the car it idles super lumpy and doesn't really respond to throttle. Would you be able to give me the steps to setting the timing. The idle is quite low I'm thinking. I also checked my MAP sensor its reading nicely. Thank you again for your help. idle for a lil with intercooler on.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 Did you try adjusting the master fuel to see if it run smoother in any direction (most likely smaller)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted November 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 It's running smoother now after I used a timing light. Are you supposed to check the timing with the light after you exit out of the window. Everytime I set the timing to 10.00 degrees and adjusted it while in the window it ran like crap and would die out but after exiting the window the timing would advance more and run better. I eventually had to start opening the window and changing the timing quick before it would die out. I pretty sure it's set now. Idk if my issue was because I was using a dial timing light? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben C Posted November 23, 2020 Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 you can lock the timing to any value, then match that with the timing light. If your engine hates 10 degrees set the base timing to a higher value when calibrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckinghamIO Posted November 24, 2020 Report Share Posted November 24, 2020 On 11/23/2020 at 2:46 AM, SodaRabbit said: It's running smoother now after I used a timing light. Are you supposed to check the timing with the light after you exit out of the window. Everytime I set the timing to 10.00 degrees and adjusted it while in the window it ran like crap and would die out but after exiting the window the timing would advance more and run better. I eventually had to start opening the window and changing the timing quick before it would die out. I pretty sure it's set now. Idk if my issue was because I was using a dial timing light? I do the following steps to set base timing: Turn ignition on (Don't start the car) Connect laptop and open PC link and disable the Auxilary output for the fuel pump Open the base timing window on PC link Open engine bay and connect timing light Remove starter relay (On my JZX100 with a 1JZ this is a purple relay inside the fuse box) By bridging the two larger pin connections the car will crank but not start due to the fuel pump being disabled but you can stil use the timing gun to determine if the car is commanding 10 degrees. On the G4X due to software changes the number will be close to 0, in my case I only need to offset by 5 degrees. Once the base timing is set save it and exit out of the window, once your done there all future timing changes can be done via the ignition map. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted December 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2020 Thanks for the replies. The timing is at 15 now seems to run okay. The idle is really low it wont even go through the warm up enrichment process it idles around 700 rpms. The throttle response is also very slow. I've checked all the enrichment tables and rpm targets they all seem reasonable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 5, 2020 Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 If you want help with anything you need to attach your tune and a log. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted December 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 It's says the file size is exceeding 129.77 kB for my map. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 You must of used up all your allowance already. You can share files using google drive, onedrive, dropbox or similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted December 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2020 Here is a link with map and log thankyou. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/18n-XeNWYeWwlnkgfQAWxe9yTraqj2MZT?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 7, 2020 Report Share Posted December 7, 2020 I moved your post since you had posted in someone else's thread in the G4+ forum. Did they swap your G4X with a G4+? That seems a bit off? A couple of weeks ago I suggested this: On 11/22/2020 at 8:46 PM, Adamw said: Did you try adjusting the master fuel to see if it run smoother in any direction (most likely smaller)? So did you try shifting the master yet? Because a master of 5ms seems very low if you only have 440cc injectors. Is your lambda gauge working? It just shows max lean for the whole log. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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