Series 4 RX7 Can’t hold idle, Link Monsoon G4X

[HaveYouSeenAWizardSleep]

I was able to get my car to idle fine a few days ago, without a CLT/IAT sensor, after finishing up my harness and adding such sensors I couldn’t even get it to idle or run, I’m using the S6 basemap and just mainly playing around with the master fuel value, these are stock 460cc Injectors at the moment, have ID1050X’s on the way. I can blip the throttle and get it to run for a few seconds but afterwards it dies out even while having my foot on the pedal. I tried to get a log but can’t see much from this log. Maybe I need a second set of eyes, somewhat at a dead end.

FC3S S4 6Port Turbo.pclx PC Datalog - 2020-09-20 10;15;27 am.llgx

[Adamw]

Is the MAP sensor hose connected?  It is showing 102kpa all the time - it doesnt even flinch with the engine running so it appears not?

Have you checked base timing?

[HaveYouSeenAWizardSleep]

6 hours ago, Adamw said:

Is the MAP sensor hose connected?  It is showing 102kpa all the time - it doesnt even flinch with the engine running so it appears not?

Have you checked base timing?

Base timing has been handled, ignore the value set in that file. I actually realized myself the internal MAP wasn’t really reading any values. Might be my manifold source, I’ll switch it around and see.

[HaveYouSeenAWizardSleep]

Fixed my MAP source still can't get the car to idle at all for some reason, could base timing still be an issues? here are my logs.

PC Datalog - 2020-09-28 8;21;53 pm.llgx

FC3S S4 6Port Turbo.pclx

[Vaughan]

That log shows it running incredibly rich, try bringing it back closer to your target afr

[Adamw]

On top of Vaughan's suggestion, I would also make sure you put a timing light on both trailing plugs to confirm they are the right way around, and not 180 out.

The lambda is also very noisy like it is maybe only running on one rotor?

And have you confirmed base timing?  With the set base timing screen open (timing locked) does it hold steady when you rev it? 

 

[HaveYouSeenAWizardSleep]

3 hours ago, Adamw said:

On top of Vaughan's suggestion, I would also make sure you put a timing light on both trailing plugs to confirm they are the right way around, and not 180 out.

The lambda is also very noisy like it is maybe only running on one rotor?

And have you confirmed base timing?  With the set base timing screen open (timing locked) does it hold steady when you rev it? 

 

Been having issues with my T1 igniter I’ll replace that probably causing that to to happen. Going to lock base timing again, the lambda reading matches the actual gauge too, could be potential that there is noise I’ll have to look. Engine stays running when I hold it at about 20-30% throttle the moment I let off it dies, base timing sounds like it’s off again had to pull my CAS again. Will fix that and see what happens.

 

On 8/30/2020 at 5:14 PM, Adamw said:

I suspect your CAS voltage may not be quite reaching your arming thresholds.

Can you change both trig 1 & 2 arming thresholds to match below and try again:

 

[HaveYouSeenAWizardSleep]

Update: The car is running very well and idles perfectly, I never wired up my BAC (Idle Air Control Valve) on the car, and I remember when creating the base-map I set it up to run with ISC control not sure if that was from the FD base-map but my intention from the beginning was to utilize the BAC anyways. The car starts with ease, better than ever (even better than the stock ECU lol). I thought I'd share this for people intending to run a Link on their FC RX-7, I'm no expert tuner but this could help anybody in my situation.

 

Details on my setup:

- Stock Port S4 NA Engine (9:4:1)
- Racing Beat Downpipe
- AEM Wideband
- Injector Dynamics ID1050X
- GM IAT
- GM CLT
- CX Racing Front Mount Intercooler
- CX Racing Blow Off Valve
- S4 Tii Turbo
- S4 Tii LIM & UIM
- Stock CAS
- Stock FPR

 

FC3S S4 6Port Turbo.pclx