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4A-GE 16V Small Port - Trigger Signal Not Read


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Hi...
I've logged this morning on (not too) cold start. It had a little idle hunt after start then went stable. When AC was turned on also a bit of hunting then went stable.

I adjusted the Idle Actuator startup hold time & startup decay time - it seems to solve the idle hunt from after starting. I also fine adjusted some parameters (ISC Control TPS lockout to 2%), and transient ignition retard down to just -5 for 500 to 1000rpm - as the idle dips too much before responding to throttle press.

I guess this will do for now, and I think I can now do some street tune.

Thanks!

 

Edited by essb00
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2 minutes ago, Adamw said:

The oscillation is mostly due to something wrong with your AC request switch, it is initially bouncing on/off - which consequential adds/removes the AC step.  After the switch settles down the idle comes right.

JKgJPhX.png

 

Oh... I guess something is wrong with my AC switch. That's why I thought I heard the relay clicking...

Thanks. I'll be having to sort that switch out, otherwise change it.

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Confirmed, it was the AC switch. :D
I had it fixed, now AC request is stable.
I had some more fine adjustments, idle seems to be stable now both AC on & off.

Only thing though is while driving, the idle dips after throttle release <-- this I need to log.

 

Test7.pclx PC Datalog - 2020-10-4 2;52;36 pm.llgx

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  • 3 weeks later...

On this attached time plot, the battery voltage suddenly dipped and the injector duty cycle momentarily followed suit. The MAP increased as the engine speed dropped.
I tried to change the connection of the wire main relay supplying power for the ECU & related ancillaries (injectors/igniter/ignition coil/IACV/lambda controller) but it still has the hiccup. The voltage from the distribution block does not seem to dip as such. 
I also have tried your recommendation to temporarily remove the Mallory Hyfire 6EZL and just use the stock ignition coil --- still having the hiccups only when AC is on.

Time Plot.png

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The change in duty cycle is due to the 200rpm drop in engine speed.  If you look at the inj PW you will see it actually increases - less duty cycle doesnt mean less fuel - you just have more off time between squirts so duty cycle is shorter.

The drop in battery voltage is too sharp to be caused by the small dip in RPM.  The dip in RPM and MAP is caused by whatever is causing the dip in battery voltage, not the other way around.  I dont know if it is electrical load from say a rear demister or a short or something - or a bad main power connection, but whatever it is you need to solve whatever is causing the battery voltage issue. 

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Hi @Adamw
Just to let you know, since I updated to the latest firmware 6.19.37, the hiccups has not recurred yet. I have not changed anything other than update PCLink software and update ECU firmware.
...so it seemed that the hiccups I was having were caused by some sort of bug in the last firmware.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/17xGlqKqUqD7hvB8ZJjuTrurAxadN_L_R/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S-yKHXDysRuVF6izpmLn-6kmsAxg4J-h/view?usp=sharing

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