Budjie Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 On 3/11/2020 at 5:35 PM, Adamw said: Your settings look correct. The 24 tooth "crank" signal needs to be connected to ECU pin C12 and the single tooth cam sensor needs to be connected to pin C14. Hi Adam how about the trig1 from an old G1. Will I connect it to (C12 obd2 or B16 ob1) and ground (c2 and c4 obd2) (B11 and b15 obd1)? I did this but there is not spark to the spark plugs do I need to connect the Trig2 but it's says in the manual it's for multi coil I'm installing it to EG hatch with stock D15B engine. Thank you so much for you help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 3 hours ago, Budjie said: Hi Adam how about the trig1 from an old G1. Sorry I dont understand what you are asking? Do you have the old "integralink" G1 pluig-in ECU? And an AEM EPM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budjie Posted October 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 7 hours ago, Adamw said: Sorry I dont understand what you are asking? Do you have the old "integralink" G1 pluig-in ECU? And an AEM EPM? I only have this and controller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 21, 2020 Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 Im still not sure what your question is? Are you trying to adapt a factory loom to the G1? Does the G1 even have a Honda compatible trigger sub-board fitted? Can you attach a photo of the car side of the distributor plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budjie Posted October 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 2 hours ago, Adamw said: Im still not sure what your question is? Are you trying to adapt a factory loom to the G1? Does the G1 even have a Honda compatible trigger sub-board fitted? Can you attach a photo of the car side of the distributor plug. Yes sir, I'll just connect the link wires to the factory harness. Yes it has the Honda compatible trigger board. It used to run a Honda car/engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 21, 2020 Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 The Honda dizzy has 3 wheels inside, a 24T that they call "CKP", a 4 tooth that they call "TDC", and a single tooth wheel they call "CYP". For a G1, assuming it has the standard reluctor sub-board in it, you will need the 4 tooth wheel connected to trig 1 and the single tooth to trig 2. The Link ECU also needs a falling edge signal where as the factory ecu used a rising edge so the sensor signals/grounds are swapped compared to how the factory ecu was wired. That looks like a OBD1 distributor, so based on a OBD1 ECU pinout your connections will be as follows: Wire originally on Honda pin B14 goes to G1 pin Trig 1. Wire originally on pin B12 goes to G1 pin Trig 2. Wire from pins B11 & B13 go to G1 pin Signal ground. @Budjie I have split your posts off from unrelated G4+ topic and moved to G1 forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budjie Posted October 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 Ok Adam thank you very much. I'll try to wire it. I will Update you soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budjie Posted October 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 Hi Adam this is my diagram for the LINK G1 connection to OBD1. Am I Doin the right way? Any more connections needed? Like the B15 (CKP P) B16 (CKP M) I didn't connect IG2 and IG3 coz it say it's for unconventional igniter and multicoil ignition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyBary Posted August 24, 2021 Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 Hey mate. I know this was a while ago but did you ever get this running? I'm in the same boat atm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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