1jz vvti base map needed

[Brendanr33]

Hey guys needing a 1jz vvti base map if anyone has one available that is similar to my setup.. 

Link g4+ fury ecu with all Bosch sensors including 4 bar map, iat oil temp/pressure, coolant temp, continental flex sensor, raceworks iacv, dbw delete, fuel pressure sensor, lsu 4.9 wideband, Borgwarner sxe369 turbo, 1650cc injectors, direct spark setup, triple pumps, 98 fuel ross balancer ect ect if anyone has one similar that I can load up for testing the motor for leaks ect before it goes to the tuners would be awesome cheers guys 

[koracing]

The G4X JZX100 base map should give you the settings you need to get started I think.  It's going to require copy and paste to get the values into the G4+ format, but it should be a place to start.

Really beyond basic settings your setup is pretty far off from stock.  You will need to obviously verify all the inputs and outputs are properly set and pinned.

[Brendanr33]

To easy mate any idea on how I would get the map for the g4x jzx100? 
 

only one I can seem to find in pc link is for a 2jz vvti. 
 

and yeah of course pretty far off from stock but just need to be able to run it for about 5mins just to see if there’s any leaks other then that will leave it for my tuner to sort out when it goes in for a tune, 

 

cheers for the info mate 

[koracing]

Download and install the PC link software for the G4x.

https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/

[Brendanr33]

Ok mate to easy I’ll have a browse tonight and see what I can sort out when I’m able to get to my computer and car.. thanks for the input mate appreciate it 

[Adamw]

File below will do it without much work.  Assign all the IO to match your wiring, and maybe some adjustment of the master fuel will be about all it needs.  

1JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr

[Brendanr33]

g'day adam, 

 

thanks again for the start up map it was quite a big help, once looking at the map i had made your looks a lot better so yeah cheers, i have gone through and updated all of my inputs and outputs to suit my wiring setup i have attached the file for you to have a look at would you be able to check this out and let me know if you can see any where that i might run into drama with and ill make changes to wiring if needed before trying to start the car, was a bit confusing as a workshop was going to complete the wire up but decided i would do it myself and turned out to be a pain in the arse due to the shop getting a haltech 2500 loom and then having to repin the loom to suit the fury but as far as i can tell should be alright but 2 eyes are better then one so if you can let me know your thoughts would be sweet thanks mate 

adams map vvti start up edited to suit IO.pclr

[Adamw]

Shouldnt be far off.  Change the aux 1 frequency to 250Hz.  I would probably also triple the numbers in your idle base position table, the 2J's can rev quite high if the idle valve is open too far (larger numbers means the valve is more closed). Numbers around 100-200 steps is the normal ballpark I remember for these engines.

[Brendanr33]

No worries mate thanks for that will change it and see how it goes also we are talking about a 1jz vvti arnt we as that’s the motor I have just noticed you said with a 2j? 
 

and also with the ecu hold power did that look ok as haltech harnesses/ecu’s are wired up different so yeah was a bit of a pain trying to get it all to work properly but as far as I can tell is all ok turns on and off as it should.. 

 

cheers Adam appreciate the help

[Adamw]

4 hours ago, Brendanr33 said:

and also with the ecu hold power did that look ok as haltech harnesses/ecu’s are wired up different so yeah was a bit of a pain trying to get it all to work properly but as far as I can tell is all ok turns on and off as it should.. 

Your guess is as good as mine since I cant see the wiring.  Did you add the diode to the ignition switch input?

Your MAP sensor was reading wrong when you saved the map.  Have you confirmed that is reading correctly and passes the calibration?

[Brendanr33]

Yeah it does work as intended as far as I am aware, yes diode was added to the ignition switch input as per wiring diagrams, 

 

and must be someone else’s map sensor reading wrong mate as I havnt physically uploaded the map to my ecu yet just went through on pc link and updated all I/O’s and sent back to you to double check before uploading to ecu itself, as far as I’m aware map and all sensors were reading correctly and within calibration levels when I uploaded a different map but will confirm once I upload this map onto my ecu tonight 

[Brendanr33]

Hey Adam, ignore previous message I was still looking at previous file I was using, got it all loaded up no dramas double checked everything over and only issue I’m running into now is that my 150psi Bosch oil temp pressure sensor keeps throwing a code on the ecu.. 

 

ive primed the motor up with oil no dramas at all and my oil temp is working no dramas but on the pressure side of things is throwing a fault code saying below error value, I have the sensor set for an volt 4 for oil pressure and an temp 3 for oil temp

 

any ideas on why this would be doing what it is fault goes away if I set the error low value to 0 with error high at 4.95v  

Also my fuel pump doesn’t seem to prime on key on? Is that in the base you sent me or is there an issue regarding wiring? Cheers mate 

 

 

 

On 12/7/2020 at 7:09 AM, Adamw said:

 

[Adamw]

Does the error code come back straight away when you clear it?  Can you do a short PC log just of it sitting there not running, but with ign switch on.  

[Brendanr33]

Got it sorted mate was a aftermarket connector being wrongly numbered so that cleared that issue.. 

 

the only one I’m stuck with now is fuel pumps.. 

 

so I’ve got 3 pumps, 1x intank and 2x surge all with seperate relays all wired the same way being a negative trigger 

 

so the way i think it is currently wired is as a mate did this part of the wiring so not sure if correct or will work but pretty sure it’s as followed..  

 

ecu injection 8 to signal wire on relays

12v straight from battery to relays

12v to pos side of fuel pump 

12v switched from key to negative side of relay 

negatives from pumps straight to chassis.. 

 

So basically with test on in injection 8 all pumps switch on as they should no dramas here’s where it’s confusing me is everything is wired the same across all 3 pumps however if setting injection 8 to fuel pump you can save the setting and store to ecu but upon powering off and turning back on there is no pumps switching on and no priming.. but it gets even more confusing because if you take 2 of the 3 relays out of there bases and leave the main in there the pump works on key on and primes as it should, take the main pump relay and put it in either one of the surge tank bases and both pumps will turn on so basically as it’s wired it’s getting power to all 3 relays as it should but when all 3 relays are plugged in together absolutely nothing to any of the pumps when key on..

 

any ideas on this one mate as it really is confusing me I’ve repinned and rewired the relays with no luck still the same issue I explain no matter what way I put the wires.. cheers mate appreciate the help your giving  

 

 

 

 

[koracing]

Can you run two pumps this way - 2 relays?  It seems to me that the simple solution would be to trigger each of the pumps separately, with the down side being that it ties up several outputs.  Usually it's not necessary to run 3 pumps at idle anyway.  The lift pump and one in the surge tank would seem to be more than enough for low injector duty cycle needs, and then stage the 2nd surge tank pump to come on above XX% injector duty cycle (with a hysteresis value like back off blow xx-5% duty cycle).

Conversely, if you can trigger one relay fine - use the output of that relay to provide the positive trigger to the other relays and you are back to one output being used.

[Adamw]

The problem you describe usually happens if you have two aux outputs assigned to the same function.  So, check through all your aux/ign/fuel outputs that you dont have another set to fuel pump.  Also check any with odd "non link" names as the label can hide one that is set to fuel pump.

[Brendanr33]

Thanks for the info koracing and Adam, will give both a try today and see what I come up with finding and report back. 
 

adam I do know that what you said could be the possible cause to this issue as I remember seeing that there is 2 fuel pump triggers set in the ecu, one is coming from aux 4 and the other is coming from injection 8, I just don’t know how it has been wired up from the guy who did it so didn’t wanna go screwing with anything or if both were triggering something but will try turning one off and see how it goes straight up this morning.. 

 

cheers guys. 

[Brendanr33]

Adam just had a quick look through the map and don’t know what old mate has done here but there is currently 3aux outputs assigned to fuel pump.. 

 

aux 4 

injection 7 

injection 8 

 

so I’ve run a test on aux 4 and nothing happens so switched that one off for now, 

 

injection 7 is labeled as injector power trigger but is labeled under fuel pump 

 

injection 8 is for the fuel pump relay trigger and is also labeled under fuel pump ( injection 8 test shows all 3 pumps turn on as there sapposed to ) 

 

so as to this guys wiring I’ve scrolled through drop downs but there is nothing listed for injector power trigger what would I set this to just injection or would it be more a gp output?  
 

cheers mate 

[koracing]

I don't see the Injector 7 output labelled for fuel pump anywhere in the tune that Adam posted up earlier.  

If you have 12V at the injectors on one side of each plug with the injector 7 output turned off, then leave it off.  If you have to set injector 7 output on to trigger a relay to provide the power to one side of each injector connector, then obviously you will need it.  Always on with ECU on would seem appropriate if that is how that output is being used.

[Brendanr33]

so after tracing wires and looking at what’s going on I repinned some wires quickly for testing and come up with 

 

Mate who wired it had the fuel pump trigger wired to injection 8 set as fuel pump in the drop down, 

injection 7 was set to injector power trigger to activate the relay in fuse box. 
 

aux 4 was a spare with it set to fuel pump in the drop down. 

 

so after mucking around with it I changed injection 8 ( originally fuel pump trigger ) to aux 4 and switched injection 8 off all 3 fuel pumps work as they should now and all prime up with key on.. phew.. 

 

my question is now 

 

if I set injection 7 ( injector power trigger ) to fuel pump im back to where I was with no fuel pump prime,

 

so how would I go about setting this in the drop down to activate the coil for the injector power side of things I currently have it set to gp output and pumps turn on with it set to that so what conditions do I need to run if any to make it work or would I set this to something else in the drop down? 

 

cheers lads 

 

 

 

 

[Adamw]

The ECU is not seeing the trigger (RPM stays at zero when you are cranking), but the trigger scope shows a signal.  So I suspect just the arming thresholds might be a bit high.  

Change the first two cells of both trig 1 & 2 arming threshold tables to match mine below, then give it a crank and let us know if there is RPM showing when cranking.    

[Brendanr33]

No worries mate, thanks for the info and input to this appreciate it a lot I’ll give that a try tomorrow and see how it goes and will let you know what rpm I see.. 

 

will the hold power side of things play part in this as I’m seeing it constantly on until ecu is shut down. Seen a few other forums I’ve browsed today and saw a few saying that if the ecu hold power was on wouldn’t let them fire? 
 

but anyways slowly getting through it old saying is poor man pays twice that’s me this time round lol 

 

will get there eventually once again appreciate all the input your giving in relation to this has been a huge help.. cheers adam 

[koracing]

Did you verify the injector 7 injector power trigger does need to be on to provide power to the injectors?  If so and you want it to turn on only when the pumps are on (running off of Aux ouptut 4) you can set the output to do the following: 

 

[Brendanr33]

Thanks koracing, 

 

will add that into the map for the conditions when I get home from work today.. cheers mate appreciate it a lot 

 

hopefully with yours and Adams input I can have it running very shortly to check for leaks ect for when it goes for a tune next year 

 

 

[koracing]

Reluctors should be 2 pins - 1 wire goes to ground/shield, and 1 wire goes to the input signal on the ecu.  There should not be any power applied to the reluctors. 

I'm not really familiar with your particular trigger on the VVT 1jz or what it normally looks like - but it looks like a decent 36-2 signal for trig 1, and the cam trigger looks a bit odd - I mean I know it should rise and then fall, so that looks right, but the noise in between is negative (which I'm unsure if that is normal) and the spike that goes negative on the fall is much higher than the rise.  That and it almost looks like 2 rises - one right after it comes back up from the negative spike?  It's possible the second rise is too close to the new arming threshold as well.  Maybe raise up the arming on Trigger2 to 0.3V at 0 rpm to make sure it only sees the first rise and not the second while cranking.