1jz vvti base map needed

[Brendanr33]

thanks koracing, 

 

will have a look tonight to double check it and make sure it’s wired correctly as pretty sure if I can remember correctly it’s 8v from ecu into the crank and cam then a shielded ground wire coming from the cam and crank sensors to the trigger 1/2 on the ecu.. 

 

pretty sure when I was looking at wiring diagrams it said to do it this way but don’t quote me had nothing but dramas fixing wiring to try and get it to start!! 
 

Adam have you got any input into this and how the reluctors are sapposed to be wired up on the fury’s to 1jz?? 
 

cheers guys 

[Adamw]

Are you still getting no RPM? 

Is this a complete standalone install or is it piggybacking a factory ECU?  Can you attach your most recent tune again.

[Brendanr33]

Adam just a thought I’ve noticed on another forum post that you also commented on a while back regarding the same issue that I’m having but do you think by any chance going off the trigger scope pics do you think the polarity could be around the wrong way on the cam sensor?? As in the other forum post the trigger scope looks exactly the same as mine at the moment but once he changed the polarity on the cam sensor it sorted his dramas out.. cheers man 

[Adamw]

Your trigger polarity is correct.  Please attach your current map when you can.  

[Brendanr33]

cheers adam, attached in current map file on ecu will a log file help out any? cheers mate also checked wiring over and can confirm its sheilded ground to trigger inputs on ecu, and sensor ground from ecu back to sensors cheers adam 

10 minutes ago, Adamw said:

Your trigger polarity is correct.  Please attach your current map when you can.  

 

current map in ecu.pclr

[Brendanr33]

gday adam any chance you have had time to look at that map file yet? Cheers mate 

[Adamw]

Can yo try loading this test map in, crank it over and check if you get RPM when cranking.  Note it wont fire, I have turned fuel and spark off.  This map I have turned off the cam sensor so it is just using crank.  That will tell us if it is just not happy about the cam sensor or both.  

test map.pclr

[Brendanr33]

Cheers adam I will load this up when I finish up at work and let you know how I go, I appreciate it mate, spent a few hours on the computer the other night with my tuner and couldn’t manage to figure it out he reckons by this stage they normally are good to go. Bit weird but will get it sorted eventually.. 

so if I see no rpm in this map would you suggest replacing cam and crank sensors? 
 

I tested the ohms last night on the sensors and they are showing at about 1100-1580ish but both cam and crank I couldn’t get a steady reading on the multimeter though so could be wrong here, started at those ohms and dropped off the multi within a few seconds of holding probes on the sensor pins 

 

cheers adam 

[Brendanr33]

so ive uploaded that map adam, tests recorded in a log file and trigger scope is attached i believe im out of upload amount is there somewhere else i can upload or send the log file to for you to recieve it? upon cranking motor there is still no rpm being recorded into the ecu..

not sure either as when i did the trigger scope you said you had turned off the cam sensor but am still getting its signal in the trigger scope?? was it sapposed to give its signal in the scope if it was turned off?

 

cheers adam

Trigger Scope Log adam test 2.llg

[Adamw]

23 hours ago, Adamw said:

Can yo try loading this test map in, crank it over and check if you get RPM when cranking. 

Did you have RPM when cranking with this file?

[Brendanr33]

2 hours ago, Adamw said:

Did you have RPM when cranking with this file?

No mate didn’t have any rpm show up at all 

[Adamw]

Ok, so the only tiume I have seen a similar scenario where a valid triggerscope shows but the ECU shows no RPM is when there is a ground missing from the sensors.  You can get just enough current leaking through to the scope, but not enough to get through the filtering, VR conditiononing and on to the processor.

So, can you unplug both the ECU and the crank sensor, then get a multimeter and measure resistance from  pin A7 to the negative pin at the crank sensor plug, then measure resistance from pin A8 to the signal pin at the crank plug.  These should both be near zero ohms.

 

[Brendanr33]

31 minutes ago, Adamw said:

Ok, so the only tiume I have seen a similar scenario where a valid triggerscope shows but the ECU shows no RPM is when there is a ground missing from the sensors.  You can get just enough current leaking through to the scope, but not enough to get through the filtering, VR conditiononing and on to the processor.

So, can you unplug both the ECU and the crank sensor, then get a multimeter and measure resistance from  pin A7 to the negative pin at the crank sensor plug, then measure resistance from pin A8 to the signal pin at the crank plug.  These should both be near zero ohms.

 

I can do this mate pin A7 and A8 are the trigger 1/2 connections on fury wire in ecu’s or sensor grounds?  
 

Is currently wired as followed.. 

1. sensor ground to -ve sensor 

2. sheilded cable from cam and crank sensors +ve ( signal ) to trigger 1/2 on ecu

3. the shield of the shielded cable looks to be grounded straight to chassis or back into the sensor grounds on the ecu Inside the car on the footwell not sure if this is correct but that’s what it looks like he has done when he wired it.. 

 

or would it be better for me to wire again as followed.. 

 

1. sensor ground to -ve sensors 

2. shielded cable from cam and crank sensors +ve ( signal ) to trigger 1/2 on ecu

3. shield from shielded cables spliced together and pinned to shielded/ground on ecu? 

 

cheers adam will let you know test results when I get them done 

[Adamw]

47 minutes ago, Brendanr33 said:

A7 and A8 are the trigger 1/2 connections on fury wire in ecu’s or sensor grounds? 

A7 is sensor ground, A8 is trigger 1.  

Normally the trigger grounds and shields are all connected to A7.  But doesn’t really matter if the shield is connected to some other ground.  

[Brendanr33]

19 minutes ago, Adamw said:

A7 is sensor ground, A8 is trigger 1.  

Normally the trigger grounds and shields are all connected to A7.  But doesn’t really matter if the shield is connected to some other ground.  

Ok mate to easy ill check ohms on the those 2 first up and let you know what it’s reading before pulling anything apart.  

 

I’ll leave the ecu out for now and if resistance check comes back crappy I’ll go through and correct all of this and get it so it’s as above where trigger grounds and shields are all on a7 and then signal from sensors to trigger 1/2 

 

cheers adam will check in soon 

[Brendanr33]

4 hours ago, Adamw said:

A7 is sensor ground, A8 is trigger 1.  

Normally the trigger grounds and shields are all connected to A7.  But doesn’t really matter if the shield is connected to some other ground.  

So adam have finally heard back from the guy who wired it up for me to confirm wiring, 

 

now it’s completely wrong I believe, 

They are both wired up as 8v from ecu to sensors +ve and sheilded ground from -ve back to ecu trigger 1/2, reason I havnt picked up on it as wires were spliced near firewall connector so looking at ecu connectors all looks legit but is far from it 

 

so if I’m thinking straight correct me if Im wrong but this should be a easy fix as the only thing wired into the 8v port on ecu plug are the cam and crank sensors old mate reckons so should be able to grab the 8v wire out of ecu plug and splice it into a sensor ground and should be all ok? 
 

cheers adam 

 

 

[koracing]

Trigger + (positive) crank needs to go to Trig1 at ECU, Trigger + (positive) Cam needs to go to Trigger 2 at ECU.  Both triggers' - (negative) and shields can go to sensor ground.

Also, in my opinion, if dude-bro doesn't know that a reluctor doesn't get power from the ecu, you may want to find a new wiring guy.


PS. I personally never use "ve" at the end of "+" or "-" as the words Positive and Negative already have that at the end.  So I read "-ve" as "negative ve".  To each their own.

[Brendanr33]

5 hours ago, koracing said:

Trigger + (positive) crank needs to go to Trig1 at ECU, Trigger + (positive) Cam needs to go to Trigger 2 at ECU.  Both triggers' - (negative) and shields can go to sensor ground.

Also, in my opinion, if dude-bro doesn't know that a reluctor doesn't get power from the ecu, you may want to find a new wiring guy.


PS. I personally never use "ve" at the end of "+" or "-" as the words Positive and Negative already have that at the end.  So I read "-ve" as "negative ve".  To each their own.

Thanks for rectifying that koracing, 

I will go through and change it all to how it’s sapposed to be today and load up adams map he originally sent me and see what happens hopefully can get it to fire and this is the only issue otherwise I’ll rip it all out buy a new set of looms and re-wire myself.. 

 

and yeah will not be returning to him as have been fixing problems since.. deffinately a bit frustrating after paying for it all to be done.. 

 

and no worries mate will keep that in mind cheers mate, will touch back to base when wiring is sorted and let use know if it sorts it and can get a fire up out of it.. 

 

adam when loading the map back in do you reckon to use the map that you first sent me or the map with lowered trigger arming thresholds? 

Cheers again guys appreciate the help 

 

[Brendanr33]

You guys adam/koracing are absolute legends!!! 
 

swapped the trigger from 8v to sensor ground where it’s sapposed to be and loaded in adams original map he sent first kick and signs of life adjusted the master fuel a little bit and finally came to life after a year of being built!! 

 

cheers legends wouldn’t of been able to do it without use... appreciate the help and thanks for putting up with the million questions/thoughts 

[Brendanr33]

Hey fellas, 

one last question for use regarding engine fan switches from ecu, witch is best to use ect?

the engine fans are currently controlled by a negative switched relay via aux output, however when I ran the car yesterday and got it up to temp the thermos switched on as they should by the ecu but don’t seem like they are really spinning as fast as they should and the relays controlling them are making the ol buzzing/squealy noise like they are low on juice..
 

so did a bit of reading and getting mixed ways at doing it aswell as reasons some say run off aux channels and others say injection or ignition as it won’t backfeed some say negative switched and others say 12v switched setups.. 
 

question is witch method would use recommend on using? As I will swap it over while ecu is out to save the hassle of pulling all the dash apart again.. 
 

1. aux channel to negative switched relay setup. 

2. Aux channel to 12v switched relay setup. 
 

3. Injector channel to negative switched relay setup. 
 

4. injector channel to 12v switched relay setup. 

fans are twin 10” Aeroflow 1500cfm race fans, 30amp normally open relays 1x relay driving each fan.. 

 

Other then that first start went bloody awesome thanks again that base map was mint adam!! 1 leak out of the whole motor and probably the most simplest to fix so can’t complain with that.. 

 

cheers fellas 

 

[Adamw]

The most simple and universal option to drive a relay is connect to any aux output, the aux output grounds the relay coil.  You should have ignition switched 12V to the other side of the relay coil.

[Brendanr33]

Cheers adam, 

 

ive gone through and had a look both are negative switched thermo setups both fans are grounded out via aux 3 but they are only just spinning for this setup, I have wired straight to thermos and they turn very fast on straight power but not through the relay setup? 
 

do the fans both need a seperate aux out to ground each relay or can it be jumped off one aux out? 
 

just trying to figure out why they turn on but not crank to full speed as they do when the power is connected straight to the fans themselves.. 

 

cheers guys hope use all had a good Christmas 

[dx4picco]

what is the resistance in Ohm from the command coil in each of your relays?

[Brendanr33]

Hey guys, 

 

still ironing out these issues I’ve been left with from the guy who wired this up for me and what a nightmare!! 
 

so I’ve managed to get all other things ruled out and fixed so far with all of your help, Thank use. 
 

so with everything else now fixed I decided to leave the battery in and connected for a couple of days to see if anything would drain power when it shouldn’t be and what do you know something is going on come back and went to turn car over and battery voltage is below 9v not enough to kick the car over. Bummer for me as I am now stuck with another issue to find and sort out.. 

so the new issue I believe is ecu hold power side of things.. 

I jump started the car to get a bit of voltage back into the battery with ecu connected to pc link let it run for a bit no dramas at all but upon turning ignition to the off position turbo timer kicked in left motor running for 30seconds and then shuts the motor off.. so I got the multi meter and held probes to battery terminals and was watching the voltage dropping before my eyes so went back to laptop and saw that the ecu is still connected to the laptop and ecu hold power is active aswell as the digital input that’s controlling it, so decided to start testing some things and here’s what I’ve found so far, any input here would be greatly appreciated guys..  

1. ecu hold power works absolutely as it should with key in the on position and shuts down ecu when it should ( 10 second hold power timer ) when turned back off again.. 

2. if you start the motor up and let it run for any amount of time and then switch the key back to the off position the ecu will stay powered on indefinitely..
 

3. Start and run the motor for any amount of time and turn it back off again the ecu stays powered up until I turn the key back to the on position and back off again and then it will shut everything down as it should? 
 

any suggestions on what could be causing this issue? Diode and everything is in place where is should be as per wiring info in pc link help file ect ect so I’m sort of stumped as to why it all works as it should until the motor gets started and then everything stays powered up until you turn the key to on position and back off again.. 
 

 

Fingers crossed last issue to fix guys but yes any help of input as to what’s going on will be of great help thanks guys.. 

 

thanks in advance 

 

[Adamw]

When it stays alive after key off, is the ignition switch DI showing off?  If not then the turbo timer would be the likely culprit.

On the other hand, if the Ign sw DI is off, but it is still staying live, then that is likely an aux backfeed.  In this case when it is staying alive you move around the car unplugging any solenoids and relays that are connected to aux outputs to see which one is back feeding.