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Will have a look at this in the morning Adam but from testing today when key off the ecu hold power aux and di6 input are staying active and not switching off at all, those 2 will only turn off once key is turned back to the on position and off again, I’m guessing it has something to do with the turbo timer now also as after switching everything off is still staying active until key is reset, I’ll check back in the morning when I check into things further and let you know, 

 

is there any reason as to why the power would be staying active on ecu hold and di because of the turbo timer? As can turn it all on Inc motor and turn off countdown happens switches off but ecu hold and di stay active until key is placed back to on and off again then turbo timer counts down and switches off and everything turns off as usual but takes the key on to do this once motor shuts down? 
 

Cheers adam 

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Ok mate to easy I’ll have a browse tonight and see what I can sort out when I’m able to get to my computer and car.. thanks for the input mate appreciate it 

File below will do it without much work.  Assign all the IO to match your wiring, and maybe some adjustment of the master fuel will be about all it needs.   1JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr

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If the ignition switch DI is staying alive then the problem is on the input side, it is not a backfeeding aux.  The ECU will not shut off the main relay until that ign switch DI is off and the keep alive timer has timed out. 

Most likely something to do with the way the turbo timer is wired, not killing all ign circuits in the car.

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Thanks Adam I will look into this first as will be the most simple rather then pulling out all the ecu and loom to track things down, I’m sort of figuring it will be in the turbo timer side as all turns off as it should just doesn’t kill the power until it’s switched back on again cheers mate will check in once I get the chance to look into it a bit more this afternoon 

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On 1/10/2021 at 6:14 AM, Adamw said:

If the ignition switch DI is staying alive then the problem is on the input side, it is not a backfeeding aux.  The ECU will not shut off the main relay until that ign switch DI is off and the keep alive timer has timed out. 

Most likely something to do with the way the turbo timer is wired, not killing all ign circuits in the car.

Hey Adam, 

 

so I’ve done some more testing and some wiring changes to ignition circuit and have found the following, no matter what way I connect the 12v switch wire tried multiple different wires the di input still stays active once key is turned to off, it will only turn off once I turn the key to on again and flick back to off straight away once the car is shut down, any other suggestions that you would recommend looking at? 

 

I do also believe old mate who wired this all up has installed a relay into the wiring near the ecu unsure of what it’s actually there for but I do remember him saying that it was so he could get the ecu hold power to work? Would this relay be causing any dramas on this side of things?? Cheers adam 

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So thought I sorted it but turns out I didn’t well not fully but good news is  everything is shutting down as it should be but I’m now getting a clicking noise from the injector relay once it’s all shut down? 
 

checked wiring again, 

 

12v ignition wire fused 10amp to di#6 B connector 

diode inbetween DI#6 and 14v in on A plug.

aux 4 ( hold power wire ) to all neg side on switches in relay circuitry. ( haltech fuse box ) 

14v aux 9/10 to all pos side switches in the relays circuitry. ( haltech fuse box ) 

battery positives in through fuses and to pin 30 on relays ( haltech fuse box )

pos out to each item, injectors, coilpacks, and ecu for hold power. ( haltech fusebox ) 
 

any reason as to why this would be happening? Any suggestions adam cause I’m just about over this peanuts work if I can’t sort it in the next couple of days I’ll be ripping it out and starting again myself at least might make sense of it all then only had to redo all of his shit just about anyways.. 

could you please check out the haltech 2500 premium wiring loom and cross reference to above I/O’s adam as this is how it’s all been wired up and let me know what I can change alter and see if I can get this mess sorted out. 
 

appreciate it adam cheers 
 

 

Also note that the only relay that I can feel clicking is the injector relay all others seem to be ok. 

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14 minutes ago, Brendanr33 said:

aux 4 ( hold power wire ) to all neg side on switches in relay circuitry. ( haltech fuse box ) 

I would say this is your problem, the other side of those relay coils (red/white wire) goes straight to the battery.  

The Link manual gives two options for this hold power relay, if it is connected to constant 12V, then it needs to be switched with an ignition drive (not an aux), if it is connected to an ignition switched source, then it can be driven by an aux.  

The Haltech schematic still doesnt match ours well so it is a bit hard to consider all the possibilities, but since you dont have any spare ignition drives, I think the answer will be to move that red/white wire.  It will need to go to an ignition switched source rather than battery/constant 12V.  Try temporarily connecting it to that wire that goes to DI6 and see it that solves it.  

So your current hold power looks like this:

rjofmrJ.png

 

Change it to something like this:

aVy6z6m.png

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12 hours ago, Adamw said:

I would say this is your problem, the other side of those relay coils (red/white wire) goes straight to the battery.  

 

No worries adam will give it a red hot crack again tomorrow, would having this setup as haltech do also cause the hold power wire being the black/red wire from all negative side of relays showing a voltage of around 6v after everything is switched off? And would this voltage cause the ecu to stay alive even though all I/O are saying off in pc link? 


after correcting old mates wiring and putting it back to how it’s sapposed to be as per links wiring diagrams I found that once everything was switched off on the key side of things that the injection relay in the haltech fusebox started clicking aswell as the vvt solenoid so after checking this out old mate has the wiring feeding 12v from the injection harness/relay to also power the vvt solenoids 12v feed. 

Would the vvt being powered from the injector power wire cause back feeding issues back to the fusebox/ecu? 


i opened the haltech fuse box up and started testing them with a multi meter and on ignition all switched off

i got readings of

Fuel pump relay

11-12v on the Negative switch, 12v on pos side,

supply and load sides of around 12v however this relay is is not in use as I have an external setup for the pumps driven off a aux output it is still connected to the haltech harness so is live still. 


injection, ignition and ecu relays I got all the same readings as followed. 

6v on negative switch 

12v ish on pos side 

supply and load around 12v ish also. 


cheers adam I’ll give that a crack in the morning with changing the red/white pos wires in the fusebox and change them to be a ignition switch feed instead and see what it does. 

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I have connected up how you said to Adam, 

so what I got from that is there is no back feeding or relays/vvt clicking now. 

on pc link however once it shuts down the ecu disconnects from pc link but after it does so the aux 2 for hold power, aux 4 fuel pumps and the injector power trigger on injection channel on a gp output thats on with aux 4 are all staying on? 
 

any suggestions here mate cheers 

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So after much frustration I couldn’t get it to work as it should everything seemed ok with the way you suggested adam however I lost all power hold function after this the ecu would just shut down instantly with the key off and would keep all random aux’s, ecu hold power, fuel pump aux, and DI inputs active in pc link when they were all powered off witch is a pain as would cause extended cranking and iacv to not work as I want it to with resetting on key off.

 

so with the frustration along come the cutting the haltech fusebox from the circuitry temporarily whilst I looked at the way they had it wired and I don’t think it would ever of worked like that so I ripped the whole fuse/relay box apart and started from scratch following the link manual I’ll explain this in a second but if you see anything wrong with anything please let me know as I’ll change it before I put it back in the car.. 

 

so there are 4x fuse/relays in the box that were being used, ECU, INJ, IGN, FUEL PUMP ( note I have now removed fuel pump relay and left blank for another purpose later on due to external setup ) 

so I now have it wired as followed below starting from battery side of things

1. 4x wires from battery positive to each fuse in the box. 
2. 12v from fuses to pin 30 on all relays. 
3. Ecu hold power wire from ecu aux 2 to pin 86 on all relays being used. 
4. IGN relay pin 87 load out to coilpack harness power feed. 
5. INJ relay pin 87 load out to injector harness ( also feeds the vvt solenoids 12v supply tapped into injector harness ) 

6.ECU relay pin 87 load out to ecu’s 14v ins with diode in place between 14v ins and ignition switch to DI6 on the ecu.. in the fusebox I have also spliced into pin 87 on the ecu relay then they tap into pin 85 on all the relays being used. 


will this now all work when I put it back in adam? Or do I need to change things cheers mate 
 

 

 

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