Dannyboi1320 Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 Hello everyone, It's been a long time since ive done the forum thing but, here i am! Im not sure where to post this but i am looking for any advice i can get. Im currently working on an OBD1 1992 325IS - M52B28 swapped, GT3582R, 62lb Siemen Deka setup. Things to Note 1. The charge pipes are disconnected for first startup 2. MAF deleted (but doesnt have to be) 3. Calibrated MAP, Calibrated TPS, ECT and IAT both read correctly (i believe) 4. Ive got fuel, the pump primes everytime the key is flipped forward (regardless if i disable fuel in the Link Ecu) 5. When i crank the car, every single time the ecu disconnects from the laptop. i cant seem to figure it out. i was under the impression the PNP OBD1 Link ecu setup should be able to fire right up. this is the very first time ive ever ran a fully standalone ecu. any advice for a first time user, or first time start up would be greatly appreciated, i am so close to starting this thing up! please help! <3 ?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 If its disconnecting it means ECU is losing power. You can confirm by watching the green LED in the ECU circuit board while cranking. Pin 56 is the 12V input from the ignition switch, and pin 54 is the main power supply from the main relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyboi1320 Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 Thanks for the reply adam, in the instructions where it talks about "Trigger calibration" it says to turn off fuel in the settings, store to ecu, save. it says to power down and turn back on to see if the fuel is truly off. i cant get the car to stop priming everytime the key is flipped is this normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 Setting the fuel mode to off just disables injection. If you want to disable the fuel pump then you can turn the fuel pump aux off (Aux 8). However, niether will do you any good if the ECU is shutting off during cranking, so you need to solve that issue before you worry about trigger calibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyboi1320 Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 Ok so its normal that the pump still primes with ignition. it just turns of the injector side of things good to note. not sure why the ECU just immediately turns off during crank. its quite annoying. ive followed some of the youtube videos with 0 luck. I am assuming once i solve the ECU powering off issue it will fire right up. every other preliminary test ive done passes. im close to throwing the stock ECU back in and seeing if it will fire up there. a couple good friends plugged this ECU right in and fired their turbo cars up first try. such is life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyboi1320 Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 Update - She Runs! So, i guess i have to admit it lol. After poking around in the engine bay, and not really seeing anything out of the ordinary, i began asking other friends with Link setups for help, we checked over all of the settings and everything checked out (found that i never set up my injector dead times! good catch!) and he mentions (i know you know your stuff but did you maybe put the fuel lines backwards?) sure-enough. Fuel lines backwards. Now after fixing the fuel the car still wouldnt start, and i just about gave up. i literally called the tuner and setup a day to drop the car off and have them "finish" it. but i dont accept defeat easily. so i decided to swap the IACV and the Crank sensor around (was told these 2 commonly get mixed up) but confirmed that i had them correct the first time. however i noticed i just simply didnt have any spark. going down that rabbit hole i decided the cam shaft position sensor wiring has got to be swapped with one of the other sensors. So Reluctantly i remove the intake, also hoping to find my missing 11mm from previously lol. [VALUABLE INFORMATION ZONE] A quick glance i noticed that the 2 knock sensor wires were just wrong, 1 was shielded, 1 was not. (ERROR) i did some digging and found out that there are 3 shielded wires for all bmw M5X/S5X. the 2 Knock sensors and the Crankshaft position sensor. of the 3 shielded wires only 2 of the 3 will be 2 wire, (knock sensors) and the only 3 wire is a crankshaft position sensor. Using the process of elimination i found every other plug. 2x 2 wire plugs 1 for vanos, and 1 for intake air temp (air temp is long, vanos is bunched into the harness) the 1 wire plug is for the oil sensor, TPS is the longest of them all. Anyways now im a wiring harness master LOL. and the car runs. Had the knock and cam sensor swapped (oops) fuel lines backwards (oops) Car runs ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.