AnWaRi996 Posted December 17, 2020 Report Share Posted December 17, 2020 Hey all, my MY99 GC8 with a WRXLink 5-6 isn't starting at all post rebuild, and I just can't get to the bottom of it. Hoping to rule out any wiring issues first as it is a custom/merged loom. It looks like there is air, mechanical timing is right, and there's definitely fuel. Of note was a weak purple spark when the plugs were checked for spark, and I feel as though that might be tied to the issue, perhaps poor grounding? The ECU doesn't show injectors turning on when the car cranks though, nor does it show ignition turning on at any point, but the car does occasionally splutter as the crank continues. Otherwise, the ECU says the battery voltage drops to 9.5v during the crank. Attached is a log of the cranking if anyone has any ideas. Thanks in advance, Anwar NO RUN LOG.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 17, 2020 Report Share Posted December 17, 2020 Note the injectr/Ignition output runtimes dont show active in the G4+ when running. Those runtimes only work for on/off type functions like a fan etc. I would try a timing light on it to confirm that spark is somewhere in the ballpark. You wont know the exact number that is being comanded in the locked tune but you are going to need to see a spark somewhere around 0-30BTDC for it to run, so as long as it is in that ballpark you can rule that out. Your TPS looks like it is not working, but that is just FYI, it shouldnt prevent it from starting. It wouldnt hurt to do a triggerscope so we can confirm triggers are good but it appears to be happy in the log. There is nothing much else that jumps out, appears to be commanding fuel and spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnWaRi996 Posted December 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 On 12/17/2020 at 6:26 PM, Adamw said: Note the injectr/Ignition output runtimes dont show active in the G4+ when running. Those runtimes only work for on/off type functions like a fan etc. I would try a timing light on it to confirm that spark is somewhere in the ballpark. You wont know the exact number that is being comanded in the locked tune but you are going to need to see a spark somewhere around 0-30BTDC for it to run, so as long as it is in that ballpark you can rule that out. Your TPS looks like it is not working, but that is just FYI, it shouldnt prevent it from starting. It wouldnt hurt to do a triggerscope so we can confirm triggers are good but it appears to be happy in the log. There is nothing much else that jumps out, appears to be commanding fuel and spark. B136-25 on the ECU was not wired in to anything (12v input?) and I have bridged it to a 12v ignition switched power source now. Still hasnt fixed the issue. Unfortunately when I connect to the ECU the triggerscope options disappear from the taskbar, I'm assuming due to the lock on the tune(?). As for the TPS, I had the throttle a bit open and it was reading that fine, but thank you. As for spark, the car was running perfectly fine before the tune so I don't see how timing could be off there. I have also checked the timing belt again to rule out a mechanical timing issue but it looks bang on. Realistically all I can see being off is compression (it is making compression sounds though and it's a fresh rebuild, but I will be double checking ASAP), or potentially the car being tuned with a different order for spark/injectors due to the frankenloom it initially had. When trying to start it again, it wants to turn over for a split second and the RPM rises to 800-900, but drops back again. It also chuffs a tiny bit from the intake here and there as though timing is 180 off or something? Is there anything else that presents itself in the log, or any other ideas as to the issue? If everything else gets ruled out it might have to go back to the tuner on the break-in tune date as a non-running car with hopes its an input/output issue, but I would much rather rule out any other issue first! Thanks for your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 29, 2020 Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 Save your current tune somewhere safe, then load in the v5/6 base map. You will then be able to view and access everything, do a trigger scope etc to help troubleshoot. You can then load the password protected map back in once you have found the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario Schneiderbanger Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 if his tps isn't working is it pegged at 100% by chance? possible the tuner setup a flood clear table when tps is 100% with engine off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnWaRi996 Posted January 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 On 1/3/2021 at 1:54 PM, Mario Schneiderbanger said: if his tps isn't working is it pegged at 100% by chance? possible the tuner setup a flood clear table when tps is 100% with engine off? My TPS is at around 20% and it's only because I had it held there, it is reading correct values. On 12/30/2020 at 7:03 AM, Adamw said: Save your current tune somewhere safe, then load in the v5/6 base map. You will then be able to view and access everything, do a trigger scope etc to help troubleshoot. You can then load the password protected map back in once you have found the problem. I'll attempt this ASAP, but it does have an 03 AVCS block in it that it was tuned for. Is it easier to load an 03 base map and change the software pinout to match the physical? Or do I still just load up a v5 MAP and change triggers? Following on from that, I know we can't see the triggers yet, but does it seem like there's a chance the crank position wiring is backwards at the sensor? Thanks for all your help so far, hope you had a happy new year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 Use the v5 base map and change the trigger mode to v7-10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnWaRi996 Posted January 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 Problem definitely sorted, it was a mehanical issue in the end, runs beautifully. As for my B136-25 wire, can this be wired to any 12 switched power? I have found one source in the bay but it keeps the car on even with the key pulled out :/ Is there a recommended source for this power supply in the bay? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 18, 2021 Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 B136-25 is the ignition switch wire. It doesnt actually power anything, it is just a signal that tells the ecu to turn the main relay on. It would be best to go to the ignition switch so you no there is nothing else involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnWaRi996 Posted February 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 On 1/18/2021 at 8:16 PM, Adamw said: B136-25 is the ignition switch wire. It doesnt actually power anything, it is just a signal that tells the ecu to turn the main relay on. It would be best to go to the ignition switch so you no there is nothing else involved. Sorry this is really confusing me for some reason. The car is starting without it connected which would imply the main relay is powered wouldn't it? If i were to connect it to the ignition switch, what is it expecting to see? 12v from whichever wire is active during ignition? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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