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E36 dying after warmed up and reving


DomsE36Garage

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Hey guys,  after a bit of help/suggestions.

My turbo E36 325i (M50B25TU w' Garrett GT3582r) running the Link G4 pnp runs beautifully at full noise and can take me around a track at 100% all day long without issue. However, if I put the car into neutrel or put in the clutch to come to a stop, the car will stall completely.

It looks like the rpms drop pretty low (around 500rpm) and try to climb again but stalls out post revving...see attached video.

I'm not sure if it's ecu related or potentially vacuum related etc. Hoping for some good suggestions on where to start.

https://youtu.be/U__kc8fLIcQ

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Yeah sorry Adam, thought of that after posting. Just popped out and grabbed the log and tune for you mate, the last 30 seconds was where I was just revving it and letting it die. See attached.

Please note, the car was professionally dyno tuned by a Link dealer, and i'm not very familiar with the PC Link interface, so bare with me. It's also 9pm at night here, so won't be able to test things out till tomorrow :) Thanks in advance.

AaronDomio_E36_Bosch040_3582_180kpa_98_04 Current 2020 Tune.pclr

E36 stalling.llg

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I suggest changing your idle ignition table to match this one below.

hCYa09g.png

 

And also it looks like you need some more "hold step" in the idle settings to reduce the undershoot.  You will have to experiment to find what value you need but it seems 1% is nowhere near enough, it may need to be as high as 10%, so try starting around 5% and see how it goes.

SVP30fi.png

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To add to what Adam said - I would recommend reducing your idle control range RPM lockout from 1200 to 400-600, and reducing the decel. timeout to less than .5 sec.  Having this range too large can cause the ecu to be trying to reduce the idle speed in certain cruise conditions leading to hiccups and stumbling.  I would actually raise your idle timing values in the base timing table as well as the idle control timing table at zero.  13 is kind of low in my opinion for nominal warm idle.  I would go a little further than Adam did with the timing table as well as add values on the x axis for +50 and -50 target error.  Here is the table I would suggest:
image.png.32170aa9d220acaa0305129985d69c27.png

For idle base position you may want to consider raising the base position to something closer to 45% warm as your IAC is going to 44+% trying to catch the rpm dip in your last log.  Nominal idle position after it stabilizes appears to be around 41-42% and by having the base position slightly higher means it will always default to having to reduce the duty cycle, instead of possibly having to increase it.  Similarly the hold step value can help here as well as Adam suggested.

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Thanks mate, I'll try to process all that and certainly utilise your tips if I can figure out what I'm doing haha!

@Adamw, is there a simple video showing me how to modify and commit these values? I've watched your other useful videos about similar things, I just don't want to stuff anything up. Also I'm sure there's an easy way to modify the values in a batch rather than me changing a value one by one! 

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Hey guys, thanks very much for the tweaks. I only made the changes Adam suggested to see how they'd go, so far so good I think! Obviously can't test too thoroughly being stationary but initial rev tests seem to be looking promising! After a rev it drops down to about 1000-1200rpm and settles from there, so that seems like it's behaving really well in comparison.

Now i'm not familiar with checking logs, but I took a quick log post changes that I'd like you to have a look at to see if it's looking better from your end. Thanks again guys, really useful information and confident I can tweak from here based on both your advice to fine tune things if required. Next time i'll be out on the track will be about Feb, so will report back then!

E36 stalling - post idle tweaks.llg

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