2GR-FE Base Map

[zaza433]

Hi. I currently have a boosted 2016 Scion tC (2AR-FE). I have plans to swap in a 2GR-FE and use a G4X Fury, however, there is no 2gr base map in pc link. I was told on the facebook groups that one of the employees at link has a 2gr swapped mr2 and that I could possibly get his tune file.

Thanks

[Adamw]

Here is a link a post with a copy of Vaughan's map:

 

[zaza433]

Thanks man!

 

[Vaughan]

Newer copy, do be aware this is not a completely factory engine and you need to wire in pullups for all 4 cam sensors.

2GR 309whp.pclx

[RedSW2]

Hi All,

I am recently obtained a FuryX  for 2GR SW20 MR2. I read quite a few from this forum with the goal of trying to learn much as I could for the set up. My set up is pretty much copy from Vaughan's 2GR 309whp base map.

I am having issue with engine turns but won't start, smell lot of gas and occasionally exhaust popped very loud noise. :).

Engine is stock 2015 Avalon with 15K miles, only mod are cold intake pipe and header from FMW.

I used 2.2KΩ resistors for both Trig 2 and DI. Currently MAF is disable and just using 1 bar MAP senor from 5SFE.

I am pulling my hair out (not much left) for trying to see where I am over looked or not setting up correctly. Tried changing from active to falling to raising edge and vise versa but no help. 

I am greatly appreciated if anyone willing to review and point out my mistake or things that not setup properly. POWER USERS?

My #1 goal is to make this ECU and engine run.

Thanks a bunch in advance

Robbie

[RedSW2]

Attached screen shots of Trigger Scope

 

 

 

 

 

[Vaughan]

RPM Limit table is all 0s so RPM Limit is active preventing any start

[RedSW2]

Hi Vaughan,

Good catch !! thank you.

I changed all values in RPM limit table to 7000. Still won't start

I notice "Trigger 1 State" shows "Extra Tooth", then I increased Triger1 filtering to Level 2.  fixed that issue but still won't start,

Checked waveform against Toyota's reference, there could be a possibility that I have Bank 1 and Bank2 reverse?

I triple check the wiring again. for testing purpose I swapped CAM from bank 1 to bank 2 for both intake and exhaust, again still won't start. I changed it back to original.

This issue is challenging, any inputs/suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

Robbie

 

After Filter increased to Level 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Adamw]

In your first log you still had the RPM limit at zero.  In the second log it looks ok. The Cam sensor waveform doesnt matter, these things flip upside down when running. The ecu is only looking at edges.  

Your throttle is sealed shut when cranking so you need to add something to your idle base position table and startup step table, copy the idle settings out of Vaughan's map above would be a good starting point. 

If still no signs of life try adding or subtracting 360deg from your trigger offset as that will change depending on which cam is used for sync.  Also you may need to increase master fuel, im not sure what the stock injector size is and I dont remember what injectors Vaughan's car has.  Your current 17ms would be about the ballpark for 550cc injectors, you will want more like 25ms if they are say 350cc. 

 

[koracing]

I have the trigger offset set to -355 on these to fire up properly using bank 1 intake cam as trig2 input.  Bank2 inlet is DI2, Bank 1 exhaust is DI3, and Bank2 exhaust is DI4.

[RedSW2]

Hi Adam,

Copied Idle Speed Control from Vaughan's map and set 360deg offset on trigger2 --> it sure started !!! Thanks a bunch

Believe the 360deg offset did the trick, should put this in Sticky! Thanks a bunch

2 issues need to address next are:

1) Idle speed: won't hold, very rough, oscillating 500-1200 RPM. and very strong gas odor.

2) Fault code 60, Lambda 1 signal error. I used internal lambda control for bank 1 and Spartan-3  for Bank 2, both sides using same WB sensor. For internal lambda, I connected 6 wires as per instruction, but I really have no idea where the set up is, CAN1? I am using CAN2 for Spartan-3 and OBD2 which I have not check.

 

Here are latest files.

 

Kris,

 

Thank you for sharing, the offset sure works.

 

Robbie

[koracing]

Your E-Throttle target is set to 0 TPS at 0 APS and your base idle position is also set to 0 in your tunes, but your datalog shows it sitting at 5% - maybe because of your dashpot offset.  It's hanging high at 2000rpm a lot so outside of your idle control range for the timing control to try and help.  Try setting your idle base position to like 2.5% - change to closed loop idle control, and a dashpot of 0.5%. 

Your settings for the Spartan are set at 250kbps - so that's not right.  Change to 1Mbit/s and turn OBD to OFF.

Your Lambda 1 - internal is showing errors of heating too long and then incorrect resistance.  When you say they are using the same sensor - do you mean 2 separate sensors but they same type of sensors?  You can't connect the can lambda and the internal lambda controller to the exact same sensor (I'm not even sure how you could).  I would double check your wiring as that seems like a wiring error to me - but I haven't used the internal controllers on any cars in person (except the Link Thunder).

[Adamw]

Error 49 on lambda one I have only ever seen caused by a fake sensor.  Do a log with the engine off and set run when stalled to yes to see if there is a temperature issue or if it is a bad sensor.  

[RedSW2]

Hi Adam/Kris,

Thank you for your help.

I am using 2 WB sensors and they are after market. I guess FURYX requires genius Bosch sensor? 

The reason Idle hanging high ~ 200RPM, because I was pressing the pedal - engine will die if I am not doing so.

Bit rate was set at 250K bit/s because that all OBD can handle. I changed it back to 1M bit/s and turn OBD off. This makes sense - thanks

I am not quite understand the reason RPM not reaching target defined on table?

I like Kris's idea of setting TPS to ~ 2.5% during idle, but currently not able to find where that setting at.  will look

Will try adjust Idle settings, dash pot and triple check B Loom wiring.

 

[Adamw]

6 hours ago, RedSW2 said:

I am not quite understand the reason RPM not reaching target defined on table?

The ecu will only attempt to control idle when idle conditions are met.  Obviously you dont want the ecu trying to control RPM when you are travelling on the highway - so you need to specify the conditions under which you allow the ecu to control idle - usually this would be throttle pedal less than say 0.5%, speed below say 15kmh, RPM less than 500RPM above target, MAP below some driving value, etc.  If you were holding the throttle open and the RPM was above the lockout then the ecu is not going to attempt to control idle.  Further more, in open loop mode the ecu isn't actually controlling the RPM - all that it does is move the throttle to whatever base position you tell it to move to.  Only in closed loop mode the ecu will adjust things to try to control RPM at the target. 

 

6 hours ago, RedSW2 said:

I like Kris's idea of setting TPS to ~ 2.5% during idle, but currently not able to find where that setting at.  will look

On 5/17/2023 at 5:28 PM, Adamw said:

you need to add something to your idle base position table

 The idle base position table.  And not necessarily 2.5%, give it whatever it needs to achieve the desired target RPM.  

You would be best to start by reading the help file page: G4X ECU Tuning Functions > Idle Speed Control > Open Loop ISC and follow through with that procedure.  Once the rest of the engine is tuned then you can move on to: G4X ECU Tuning Functions > Idle Speed Control > Closed Loop ISC
 

 

[RedSW2]

Hello Adam,

2 Questions:

1) FURYX shows CAN2/LAMBDA2 OFF. I verified Spartan 3 that use for CAN2 with CANFORMAT1, CANID950 and BAUD rate to 1000000, also verified CAN Setup on link as instructed. Is there something that I missed.

 

 

2) what would be the best setup for Start up idle with RPM ~ 1000 then decay to 750 as Engine warmed up to normal operating temperature?

I will try to get a 22uf connect between 12V supply for heater and Ground of LANBDA1 and see if that help with Error 16

I am surely learn a lot,

Thanks a bunch for your help,

 

 

[koracing]

Yeah startup around 1000-1200 cold and slowly decaying to 750-800 at warm/operating temp (like your previous table you posted a picture of above).  You can try grounding the Spartan to the same ground point as the ECU and see if it helps the error 16.

Your tune has all the idle target set to 1600 currently and the rpm at idle is jumping all around.  Without AFR readings it is hard to say how much is related to just tuning the fuel values around idle, and how much is something to do with E-throttle control.

I'm not sure if your Lambda 2 is having any issue because you have both CAN streams looking for the Lambda, but perhaps just delete the recieving on the CAN bus you aren't using for Lambda 2.

[RedSW2]

Hi Kris, thanks for the suggestions.

Totally agreed, I need to get AFR working first.

I am using internal/build-in Lambda control for CAN1/bank 1 and Spartan3 for CAN2/bank2.

Today, I ran extra ground wires from ECU to several locations of engine block/heads, added 10uf/63V capacitor across heater power supply (pin B-10) and signal ground; also set CAN 1 with All channels OFF.

Lambda1 still have error 16 and CAN2 still shown lambda2 is OFF, not sure what I am missing.

 

 

[koracing]

All I can think of for the Lambda1 is try to double check your wiring on the internal lambda sensor.

I read in another post that if the spartan3 is set to be lambda 2 you need to use id 951 instead - and change it on the Spartan also.  No idea if that's the case with your Fury setup or not, but perhaps?  If you disable the internal lambda - can you set the spartan to lambda1 with the ID at 950?

[RedSW2]

Hi Kris, thanks for the note. I changed Spartan3 ID to 951 and it works - yeah!

I double checklambda1 wiring, all are good. I think next step are: 1) add 22uf capacitor or 2) using Bosch OEM LSU 4.9.

I asked Adam to confirm if Link ECU support only OEM WBO2 senor not cloned . Will share once I find out.

[koracing]

I would only use geniune name brand sensors - it's not worth saving $30-40 to get a fake as it's pretty critical for tuning.  That said there are plenty of options to get genuine Bosch sensor (or Denso or NTK) without paying a convenience charge that some brands tend to impose.  Rock Auto lists the Bosch 17025 for $66.79 plus shipping. Googling shows most 2006+ VAG vehicles have the LSU 4.9 stock.

[RedSW2]

I am totally with you. I didn't not realized I got the fake one until received.

[RedSW2]

Ordered two Bosch 17025 from Rock Auto. Installed one on Lambda1/Bank1 (internal CAN). Error 16 and 49 still persisted on 2 tries with Clear ECU Fault Code before logging .  Not sure what to do next about Lambda1 !

This plot shown is using some setup from Daniel Oliver Racing file, idle is a little improve still not stable.

 

[koracing]

You should probably raise your map threshold to like 85 or 90kpa for idle control to make sure you're not continuously dropping in and out of idle control.  If you attach a copy of the tune and log it would be more useful than a screen shot. 

I would consider returning the Fury to Link to have them check out the lambda 1 circuit.  If it's failing with genuine sensors and the wiring is all in good shape, there's a problem there.

[RedSW2]

Kris, please attached for log and map files.

I will reach out to Tech. support and see if any other tests they want to do for confirmation before returning.