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Ecu not communicating with fuel injectors


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Motor was running fine, then all the sudden stopped. Found someone local So.Cal inland empire area that has knowledge of the vg30det(nissan v6) and link ecu. Was told ecu was not communicating with injectors telling them when to fire. Buggy was parked till now.. I'm trying to see if its a common/easy fix or sent to link in NZ(sounds costly) or am i screwed till i can afford a new ecu?

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Need more info.  Is it an old white/green G1 LEM that you have?  

The G1 has two injector drives so with a V6 they drive 3 injectors each, if no injectors are working that would mean both drives would have had to fail at the same time which is pretty unlikely.

How did the tuner determine the injector drives are faulty? More likely I would say a trigger issue.  

Does the engine run if you spray starter fluid into the intake?

 Is it a laptop tunable model or hand controller only?

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I will get pictures and numbers off the ecu later today, yes it is white and green. I wasn't there at the tuners shop. It's second hand knowledge to me. I'm working on getting a battery to do my own troubleshooting. Where would the trigger for the injector signal be? I can check that today aswell

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Before checking the injector outputs, you need to first confirm if the ecu is receiving a trigger and all sensors are working. You would normally do this by connecting a laptop or hand controller and check it is reporting RPM when cranking and things like MAP and temperatures are reading correct.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for the wait on pictures, life got in the way. I'll get pictures of the insides of the ecu and motor area soon

20210114_181036.jpg

I believe this will work with the serial link system but can i just get an adapter to usb and plug straight into a laptop? 

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You will need PC Link V2.5 from here: https://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLinkV2.5Setup.exe

Once you are connected the first thing to check would be the runtimes down the bottom of the screen, this is all the live data, so check all the temperatures, pressure, voltages, etc look realistic, then try cranking and check that it shows about 150-250RPM when cranking.

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  • 1 month later...

hey same problem but on a 4age with itbs car was running fine then just stop i have checked the crank angle sensor reading 200rpms vac and temp all reading ok also check with a light at injector plugs with all plugged both sides gets power and with them unpluged only one side of the two pin plug gets power then when crank i get no pulse i also noticed in my wirring from inj 1 and inj2 they have a big resistor wired in each line iv had this car for 3 years now but its only stopped working yesterday! also have checked the ground on the manifold i under stand that these ground out internally via a switch that runs to the manifold   and i have opened it up and cant see any burn marks on anything cheers any ideas what to check next?

 

 

 

 

 

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How are you checking the injector pulse?  The PW will be <5ms so a normal multimeter or test light wont pick it up.  It will need to be an LED test light.  If you have an LED test light then I would next test at the injector pin on the ecu plug to eliminate any wiring issues.

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o might be where im going wrong its a bulb test light 

but i am getting power to one side of the injector plug and the other side should have power ? also when checking i have all plugs unpluged from the injectors and went from negative battery into the end of the plug when looking for pulse

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