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Extra Cam postion sensor pulses


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So I had 2 old school condensers so I wired those in. The RH Inlet sensor looks way better than it did on the scope. The LH inlet sensor does not appear to have changed on the scope, but it appears that the trigger scope from the ecu looks better. What do you think? Here is a link to the scopes. I dont have enough space left to attach to these to this post. https://we.tl/t-e9YeN7iHqa 

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So I still had trigger errors at the rally. I tried to shut the VVT off to see if there was electrical noise from the solenoids that were causing it, but that did not work. Do you think filtering it could be a filtering issue? i see that one the setup page for the ez30 it recommends level 2 on trig 1 and trig 2 and mine is set to level 1 on both.

 

What would be your recommendation for the next step in resolving this issue?

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As I was going back through videos of the race and was thinking about it. The problem got worse as the day went on.  If the problem were something like a grounding issue would it make sense that as the vehicle got warmer the problem would get worse? 
 

side note: now that I am back home I ran it and got 0 CPS errors and 0 trigger errors. I let it run and sprayed water everywhere to make sure that wasn’t an issue as snow melted that got into the engine bay. I also pulled and moved around the wiring harness everywhere to make sure that i couldn’t find any loose connections. 
 

This is really frustrating.....

 

thanks again for any advice. 

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Yeah, the original scope images with VVT solenoids and spark showing on top of the signals gave me the impression of a weak or compromised ground path somewhere.  

Have a read of this article just for some ideas on how you might diagnose, it was a similar symptom to yours:  https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/staying-grounded/

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For a hall sensor the lower threshold is 1.0V.  So to be considered a valid "tooth", the voltage needs to rise above 1.5V, and fall below 1.0V.  So 0.5V should be fine and it is pretty common to see the lower voltage around that level.

 

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So i went through the ecu ground wires (4 of them) with the amp clamp and there seems to be power only going in the right direction. Is there anything else you would recommend checking?

 

one thing I did find was the crimp of the  power cable coming from the alternator to the battery was not very good. It was connected but very loose. I fixed that. I haven’t had a chance to go test since then. But again since I have returned from the race I have had 0 trigger errors. I got it to have some RH CPS errors when I tested the other day. But that’s it. 

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So I have been playing around with the oscilloscope trying to find stuff and I think that I have found something of interest. There appears to be noise on the LH CPS even when the vehicle isnt running. I started unhooking things till I found what was causing the noise. It appears to be the Lambda sensor. Upon further inspection I found that the Lambda sensor is sharing the same 12v power supply as the Cam sensors power. Do you think that the easiest Solution would be to run a separate 12v power lead to the Lambda sensor? or is there something else I should be doing?

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Yeah that is a possibility, although I have never noticed it before.  It wouldnt surprise me if the lambda heater control was around 250Hz.  Move that lambda source somewhere closer to the battery - Ideally a relay directly off the battery post.  

 

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So even with the Lambda sensor on its own circuit coming directly from the positive on the battery there is still interference as soon as you hook it up. Do you think that I should try adding a suppressor to it?

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Have you tried it with the CAN Lambda having it's own earth straight to the battery as well?

Do they have a 4pin narrowband from factory and are you using that wiring? If you are there's  a chance that the CAN Lambda is using the CAM sensor's signal ground as its power ground.

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8 minutes ago, zwhitebread said:

I am using the internal Lambda sensor on the Fury. I am not using any factory wiring on the O2 sensor. Just the wideband wires from the link to the sensor and the one power wire. 

My bad, should have read further up.

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No problem. Thanks for the thoughts though. I suppose if I can’t figure out the internal wide band I will have to go to a CAN sensor. But I would rather not have to. It’s convenient having the internal one. 

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28 minutes ago, zwhitebread said:

No problem. Thanks for the thoughts though. I suppose if I can’t figure out the internal wide band I will have to go to a CAN sensor. But I would rather not have to. It’s convenient having the internal one. 

did you turn off the wideband control / unplug the sensor and then test for the errors? I'd make sure it fixes the problem before purchasing a new WB. 

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Yeah, if changing 12V feed didnt help that suggest the noise is coupled to the ground side.  I would try it with lambda turned off to confirm it solves your problem before going too deep.

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