MINI COPER 2003 - G4X PLUGIN - COLD IDLE ISSUES/HUNTING - NEED HELP!

[MG123]

HELLO!

I have a G4x plugin installed into my 2003 JCW mini cooper S.

My tuner has tuned many link ecu's, and is great with them, however we have been unable to get the COLD idle smooth. The vehicle hunts badly on cold idle which is the main concern, generally 500 to 2000rpm. It takes 5 seconds or more of cranking before it starts (not the main concern, great if it can be resolved also).

I have seen my tuner modify the "min and max clamp", maybe a few other settings that Im not really sure about. I can take more photos of the map, or send it to someone that can have a look for us.

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If anyone can please give some advice on what they think we should be looking at, that would be really appreciated. I am trying to sell the car, however this is making it complicated.
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The car idles well when its warmer, generally after 3-4 mins. Between 4-8 mins  the idle does drop low when coming off gas and try's to correct itself. After 8 mins or so the car runs perfect.

Details
The car has been tuned to 160kw atw, and has been running as a daily for 6 months.
The car has a upgraded camshaft and is running on 98 octane. It has a larger harrop supercharger and many other support mods, wide band sensor connected to the computer, fuel pump, bosch 550 injectors, etc.

 

[Vaughan]

Attach a copy of your tune please

[MG123]

Hi Vaughan,

File attached

Thank you for your time!

idle-mini.pclx

[Adamw]

Can you give us a log as well.  The couple of things that jump out at me is the integral is quite a bit higher than I normally see - 0.05-0.2 is more common for e-throttle.  And the idle ignition settings dont give you a lot of torque reserve.  An idle ign tareget of 10deg and a max clamp of 30 would give you a lot more torque reserve.  APS/TPS lockout should also be at something more like 0.5% too.

[MG123]

Ill get a log of it soon Adam! Thanks

[RMW]

you need to find a tuner who actually knows how to scale the injectors.  He's still using the stock injector dead times

there is so much wrong in that map to be running "right"

no wideband setup either

throttle settings as Adam mentioned are completely off too

once you get everything corrected it will make much more power than you are getting now

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MG123]

18 hours ago, Adamw said:

Can you give us a log as well.  The couple of things that jump out at me is the integral is quite a bit higher than I normally see - 0.05-0.2 is more common for e-throttle.  And the idle ignition settings dont give you a lot of torque reserve.  An idle ign tareget of 10deg and a max clamp of 30 would give you a lot more torque reserve.  APS/TPS lockout should also be at something more like 0.5% too.

Hi Adam/RMW,

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ux0vt37z505ffp6/PC Datalog - 2021-04-12 9%3B28%3B55 pm.llgx?dl=0

Thanks both for your reply. Ive added a log to my drop box account (due it its over 9.35mb). Ive logged my first start up this AM as well as the drive to work. Minimum clamp was on 2.6%, I raised it to 3.5% and it made it idle perfectly on cold start, you will see it corrected itself. However when I was driving, it would then hunt when it was warm when pulling up to a set of traffic lights for 5 or so seconds, then it would clear up after a few seconds. Adam, can you recommend any changes that I can make myself also? Ill give it a go myself.

Thanks for your input on this guys!

[Adamw]

Link to the log?

[MG123]

Just now, Adamw said:

Link to the log?

Should be in the above message!

[Adamw]

Try this one, I have made some changes to make it closer to the recommended setup.  Most of your problem I think was the E-throttle target table had highly variable throttle values in the top row - it should be all zeros in G4X generally.  The "hunting" when coming up to lights is because the commanded throttle position was causing the idle to sit right on the cusp of the RPM that overrun fuel cut switches off - so that was bouncing on/off.  I have changed the overrun fuel cut settings a little but this problem will mostly be fixed by itself when the base position is better tuned.  

Try another log using this map.

 

 

idle-mini try this.pclx

[MG123]

4 minutes ago, Adamw said:

Try this one, I have made some changes to make it closer to the recommended setup.  Most of your problem I think was the E-throttle target table had highly variable throttle values in the top row - it should be all zeros in G4X generally.  The "hunting" when coming up to lights is because the commanded throttle position was causing the idle to sit right on the cusp of the RPM that overrun fuel cut switches off - so that was bouncing on/off.  I have changed the overrun fuel cut settings a little but this problem will mostly be fixed by itself when the base position is better tuned.  

Try another log using this map.

 

 

idle-mini try this.pclx 423.61 kB · 0 downloads

Thanks Adam! Ill load this in and get back to you tomorrow am on cold start.

Much appreciated!

[MG123]

5 hours ago, Adamw said:

Try this one, I have made some changes to make it closer to the recommended setup.  Most of your problem I think was the E-throttle target table had highly variable throttle values in the top row - it should be all zeros in G4X generally.  The "hunting" when coming up to lights is because the commanded throttle position was causing the idle to sit right on the cusp of the RPM that overrun fuel cut switches off - so that was bouncing on/off.  I have changed the overrun fuel cut settings a little but this problem will mostly be fixed by itself when the base position is better tuned.  

Try another log using this map.

 

 

idle-mini try this.pclx 423.61 kB · 3 downloads

Adam it starts soooooo much better mate, idle is perfect sitting at around 1100, absolute legend thank you. Only one issue, on the dash there flat tyre and DSC light will not go out now, how can I rectify that?

[Adamw]

13 hours ago, MG123 said:

Only one issue, on the dash there flat tyre and DSC light will not go out now, how can I rectify that?

I dont think either would be anything related to the engine ecu.  In some cars you need to do an abs reset if you ever disconnect the battery or unplug one of the ecu's.  You will have to get someone with a scan tool to see what faults they are reporting.

[MG123]

Thanks for that info, it seams to have triggered something but now it’s gone! You’re a legend. Been trying to sort this for ages.

 

Again, car starts and idles perfect now, however I’ve noticed that when it’s warm, it hunts when stopping at a set of lights, or pushing the clutch in, almost appears as if it try’s to rev up (1000-2000rpm x2 times) and hold the revs slightly after removing your foot from the accelerator. I’ve attached a video, let me know if you recommend any changes for me to make.

[Adamw]

Need a log.

[MG123]

I reduced the min to 2% and 4% and it seems to have helped. Ill stop bothering you Adam you’ve helped enough! Thanks.