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Subaru Sensors and a couple of questions


MartinS
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Hi all, using a Link G4 Xtreme on my Subaru EZ36 install into a VW Vanagon.  When wiring up my engine, I used the Subaru wiring diagrams assuming this would wire all the sensors correctly.  This gives all powered sensors 12V on the EZ36.  The link seems to want everything at 5V although it implies in Help this can be changed.  Having said that, my MAP seems fine.  How do I change this or do I need to convert all my sensors to 5V?

Second, what do I set Subaru temp sensors as?  The engine has a water and oil temp sensor.  I've put them as Bosch but they just read 100C.  I tried using the calibration tables but couldn't figure out (despite juggling some of the numbers) how to get the sensors into range. 

Another issue: I have a 0-5V E-accelerator pedal system installed.  It was an expensive and a relatively complex install under the floor of the drivers compartment to get it integrated into the mechanical accelerator pedal and cable of the van.  My mistake, I did not read the Link Help files prior to doing this and my pedal system has only one 0-5V output and no 'sub' channel.  Is there a workaround for this? 

Finally, where do I find the settings for the high and low limits for analogue channels?  Help says these can be adjusted to prevent error messages but I've been through all the menus and I just can't find them.  Probable hiding in plain sight....

Thanks in advance, Martin 

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I suspect you either have a bad diagram or you are reading it wrong.  I would expect the only sensors on the engine that should have 12V is the cam sensors, everything else should be 5V. 

The Std Bosch NTC calibration is correct for the subaru temp sensors.  The 100deg sounds like possibly your error value - which could be a bad setting or bad wiring.  Are there any fault codes showing?

For the pedal sensor, the only way you could make that work would be to connect the 0-5V signal to 2 analog inputs so both sub and main have a signal.  But be very aware - this highly dangerous, it means you have no pedal safety checks at all - if the wire breaks or there is a short or the sensor fails the wrong way then it could just command wide open throttle.  Link sell a high quality hall effect "dual track" TPS sensor that you may be able to replace your existing sensor with.   https://dealers.linkecu.com/TPSCW_2

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Thanks Adam, I'll check through everything again.  Cam sensors are wired 12V which had me worried but I haven't got that far in my setup to realize they are ok at 12V.  I'm thinking I'm mashing everything together in my mind and did wire the MAP as 5V as it's working correctly and my engine wiring loom links all like sensor's power together and I'm using the factory engine loom so the other sensors should be 5v...which is only the TPS I think. O2, MAT, accel pedal all 5V already.  So, I guess I was mainly worried about the cam sensors and they're good at 12V.  

I'll double check the temp sensors.  I wired in an inlet air temp sensor and it's working fine so maybe it is the error value I'm confusing.  

I'll wire the accel pedal in parallel to get things started and will order the Link 'dual track'.  Looks like it would just replace the sensor on my setup without changing the overall installation of the system which is my primary concern.  Thanks for the information.  

When setting up the e-throttle, which is when I realized there needed to be a 'sub' channel, the program told me it failed to find an e-throttle module.  I have the Link module wired in.  I'll check the wiring again but is there a way to make sure the ECU is seeing the module?

Sorry for the basic questions but I suspect I'll be posting again, I'm new to Link and just getting going on the program and it's setup. Early days and frustrating until I learn the internal logic of the layout.  Can you recommend any sources of information other than the help file?  Also, I posted asking for help with basemaps for my EZ36 but haven't had any responses.  Any ideas for sources?

Thanks again, Martin

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1 hour ago, MartinS said:

the program told me it failed to find an e-throttle module.

There is no such error that I have seen.  You will have to get that error to appear agaiun and either screenshot it or note it down.  It is a dumb device, the ecu doesnt "detect" or find it.  

 

1 hour ago, MartinS said:

help with basemaps for my EZ36 but haven't had any responses.  Any ideas for sources?

Not for a G4.  You could grab this G4+ one and manually copy some basics over:

https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/10752-subaru-ez36-questions/?do=findComment&comment=73496

 

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Ah, ok, it only flashed up on the screen for a moment.  Must have misinterpreted what it said.  One of my frustrations is with the laptop I'm using.  Lightly touching the track pad is like an enter click and I tend to leave my finger hovering so do touch it which essentially clicks on whatever the mouse 'arrow' is over.  Just not used to the computer and it's very irritating.

Thanks for the link, that's very useful info...

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5 hours ago, MartinS said:

One of my frustrations is with the laptop I'm using.

There will probably be some settings to improve the touch pad behaviour.  Different models have different options, but usually there will be a sensitivy setting and if you have the "additional settings" menu there may be settings such as double tap speed or single tap in place of double tap etc.

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Thanks Adam!  Mac user last 20 years, have forgotten all the details of Windows and Windows has changed a lot since I was a regular user.  I'll tweak that and see if my overall level of irritation decreases...seems to get higher every year even without Windows...

 

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Hi Adam, so, looked at my one channel FPS and I'm 99% sure the link two channel will fit to my bracket/cable  so have ordered it. Just to get things rolling I connected a sub input to the singe channel and it now works well.

Unfortunately, all the other problems I'm having turn out to be related to the connector I'm trying to use from engine harness to ECU.  Probably no surprise to you it's a wiring issue and shouldn't have been to me I guess.  

The Subaru engine harness has a socket, I found a supplier of the plug, purchased plug and crimp connectors, no continuity on the small crimp connectors so purchased pre-crimped wire/connectors thinking it was my crimping, same problem.  So, now I've dumped about $400 US and many tens of hours (wiring is not my thing obviously) thinking I'd have a plug and play engine and it looks like I'm going to have to start from scratch and hard wire everything in.  Honestly, I thought the hard part was going to be making sure I got the plug and socket wires in the right playout.  A bit discouraging.  I'll contact the connector supplier's help line tomorrow but I'm not optimistic.

I'm sure I'll have more questions when I get the wiring sorted so I'll start another thread when I get back to this point.

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Ah the infamous Subaru 54 pin connector.  I have seen the odd contact give intermitant connection in those before, but never the whole lot all at once.

Given the non-oem part number you have I suspect they are selling a Chinese clone, the plastic housing is probably ok, but chinese terminals are often nowhere near spec.  Have you got a couple of spare terminals to check they slide tightly together with acceptable spring tension etc?

If it were me I would either try to find what the connector is and buy genuine terminals - most likely Sumitomo at a guess.  Or change to something generic like a 47way HD20 or HD30.

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Yes, I thought I was being so clever.  I've made progress, most of them where not engaging properly with the housing and getting pushed back by the socket 'tynes'.  Turns out, I had them 180 degrees rotated on their long axis. Even though they locked in place being pushed in from the rear the way I had them (like every other automotive socket/plug combo I've worked on), they where able to be pushed back.  Pulling them forward out of the housing (ie towards the socket), rotating them 180 and pushing them back in and they are locked from being pushed back.  Didn't know that was a thing but there you go.  

Problem is, a couple are still not connecting but they are the ones I spent a lot of time testing and messing with to try and get them to work (even tried a little 5 min epoxy to fix them in place) so I'm hoping they are damaged and I'll crimp new ones in tomorrow and all will be well.  I have 6 or 8 spares so I can choose ones which fit tightly and make a good connection.  Fingers crossed....I guess I can live with hard wiring in those 2 or 3 which don't work in the socket (that I know about so far) but it's very irritating when something supposedly precision fails to work.  Especially after so much effort. 

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