e30 m20b23 323i wasted spark

[cruz177]

Hi i am working on a m20b23 i am going to remove the distributor and replace it with wasted spark bosch motorsport 3x2

I have two doubts:

The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 so I understand that the channel grouping would be
A: 1-4
B: 5-2
C-3.6
This is correct?

On the other hand, should the injectors group them in the same way or would it be better to wire them independently in 6 outputs?

Thanks

[Vaughan]

coils should be:
Ign1: 1-6
Ign2: 2-5
Ign3: 3-4

If you have 6 injector drives then wire each injector drive to the cylinder of the same number:
Inj1: Cyl 1
Inj2: Cyl 2
Inj3: Cyl 3
Inj4: Cyl 4
Inj5: Cyl 5
Inj6: Cyl 6

[cruz177]

1 hour ago, Vaughan said:

Las bobinas deben ser:
Ign1: 1-6
Ign2: 2-5
Ign3: 3-4

Si tiene 6 unidades de inyector, conecte cada unidad de inyector al cilindro del mismo número:
Inj1: Cyl 1
Inj2: Cyl 2
Inj3: Cyl 3
Inj4: Cyl 4
Inj5: Cyl 5
Inj6: Cyl 6

Thanks!

Is there a possibility that link does sequential injection with wasted spark?

Or then inside the link it is configured in the same way before in the 3 groups?

I am using only a 60-2 wheel

[Vaughan]

7 minutes ago, cruz177 said:

Is there a possibility that link does sequential injection with wasted spark?

Any combination of ignition mode and Fuel mode can be used, you just need to make sure the ignition outputs are wired correctly for the ignition mode and the fuel outputs are wired correctly for the fuel mode.

8 minutes ago, cruz177 said:

I am using only a 60-2 wheel

If you only have a crank trigger with no cam sync then Sequential injection wouldn't be recommended as approximately half the times you start the car the injection timing will be 360 degrees out. In this case I would recommend using Multi-point group injection. @Adamw might be able to recommend the best way to wire multipoint group injection for a 6 cylinder but I suspect it will be wiring 3 injectors together to either one or 2 injection drives each group depending on current draw requirements.

[Adamw]

What ECU do you have?

[cruz177]

4 hours ago, Adamw said:

What ECU do you have?

It's a g4x storm

[Adamw]

Then you have 8 injector drives.  Wire one injector to each drive as per Vaughans original comment.  If you set the ECU to multipoint group it will fire odd cylinders then even cylinders twice per cycle.  This will give you the opportunity to upgrade to sequential with just a setting change if you ever add a cam sensor in the future.   

[cruz177]

4 hours ago, Adamw said:

Entonces tienes 8 unidades de inyector. Conecte un inyector a cada unidad según el comentario original de Vaughans. Si configura la ECU en grupo multipunto, disparará cilindros impares y luego cilindros pares dos veces por ciclo. Esto le dará la oportunidad de actualizar a secuencial con solo un cambio de configuración si alguna vez agrega un sensor de cámara en el futuro.   

Thanks!

[cruz177]

just completing a few missing wiring things I see that the instrument cluster seems to work for a coil negative signal

Has anyone come across this problem?

being a k-jetronic engine I think I may have problems with the tacho signal

Has anyone come across this problem? with the attached scheme could you solve the problem?

[Adamw]

Try it with the tacho connected directly to ecu first, the last E30 I done the tacho worked fine with nothing special needed.  

If it doesnt work I would suggest using a proper tacho booster instead of the relay coil trick.  The relay trick will sometimes work, sometimes not.  The proper devices have a transistor inside so the ecu cant clamp the flyback.  These ones are cheap and work:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/142171581596

[cruz177]

After a while I am trying to start up and finishing configuring some sensor

I was wondering if it is normal for a fuel pump to appear in red (no faults). The pump seems to be working normally 

Thanks

[Vaughan]

That fault just indicates that the voltage on that Aux pin isn't going up or down as far as it expects it to. We have removed this functionality in the newest release (6.21) which is on the website at the moment.

[cruz177]

thanks I'm trying to adjust the ignition but I find that sometimes the light strobe works and sometimes it doesn't

I have looked at the trigger and during the adjustment I see small errors in the error counter between 1 and 3

I have attached the capture if anyone can know what it may be

I am using the modified flywheel from a bmw e36 60-2 with the hall sensor from a z3

Thank you

4cc3e782-9d48-46f3-ad06-455e0d98ccc7.jfif 33f97495-3f62-4828-9732-3a9e917f316f.jfif

[Adamw]

Attach the actual saved scope file rather than a photo.  And a log of it cranking, and the tune.

[cruz177]

thank you attached the map and the log

It gives me the feeling that there is some fault in the trigger but I can't see it, it tries to start even sometimes it lasts for 2-3 seconds but the rpm is dropping as if it lost the signal

323i BMW base.pclx TriggerScopeLog.llgx

[Adamw]

The problem is your sensor is sometimes sending two "pulses" for a single tooth, so the ECU sees two teeth when there was actually only one.  It then freaks out when its tooth count has reached 58 teeth but hasnt reached the missing tooth gap. 

This extra pulse could be due to the mismatched sensor/wheel combo, or some alignment/runout/air gap issue.  

[cruz177]

1 hour ago, Adamw said:

El problema es que su sensor a veces envía dos "pulsos" para un solo diente, por lo que la ECU ve dos dientes cuando en realidad solo había uno. Luego se asusta cuando su recuento de dientes ha alcanzado los 58 dientes, pero no ha alcanzado el espacio de los dientes faltantes. 

Este pulso adicional podría deberse a la combinación de sensor / rueda no coincidente, o algún problema de alineación / desviación / espacio de aire.  

thanks for your help I just verified what it says and you are absolutely right! I have adjusted the gap from 0.5mm to 1.5mm with no apparent changes (perhaps in 0.5mm it failed a little less) so I will try to make a more robust support if I have the failure, it must be with the vibrations of starting it moves the sensor.

I will keep you informed of how I solve the problem

Thank you

[dx4picco]

would it be a damaged / non symetrical tooth maybe?

[Adamw]

The other common cause is a mismatch between the design of the tooth (shape/size/mass) and what the senor needs.  Possibly your wheel is designed for a VR sensor.  

[cruz177]

I have finally fixed the problem with a cherry red hall sensor with a bespoke bracket seems to be working fine

seems to be working smoothly with the e36 60-2 flywheel with a gap of 1.5mm

Regarding the rpm count, I tried a booster with a transistor but this has not worked, the only thing that has worked is the photograph that I have previously attached with the coil of a relay