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2jzgte wont start


tookwik4u
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Hey gents,

Finally come to the stage where i start up the jz, its a non vvti removed from an aristo into mk4 supra. Was running with the link g4 storm (metallic alloy case) ecu before removal only difference i made to the setup was: removed msd coils with 3 link igniters and went with r35 gtr cop, upgraded the injectors from what i think were 850cc sards to 1250cc bosch injectors, upgraded the cams from stock to 264* which i dialled in myself (fairly confident it’s correct).

Like a complete donkey, i went and started playing with all the settings (following instructions from the link manual setup and forum info i found here) but didnt save the original running file first.

I have all the inputs placed properly in the ecu, tested ignition and injection and they work fine under TEST MODE but trying to use a timing light to set base timing i have no spark on crank. 
I may not have injection on crank either, TEST MODE activates them (big backfire if i test inj and ign after) but since neither INJ or IGN turn green and show “on” when cranking I suspect both are not firing when im cranking.

Im all out of ideas so if someone could help id much appreciate it.

 

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8 minutes ago, Devinmitch said:

If you watch your computer when cranking it over does it show rpm? Sounds like ecu is not seeing rpm 

Yes, its reading the crank trigger.

The fuel pump, isc solenoid turn on and green when i crank. The ignition and injection inputs dont. Are they meant to? Or do they turn on only when its running? Im missing something or ive got something wrong somewhere, just dont know what

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Everything looks ok in the log, there is spark and fuel being commanded. 

Have you pulled a plug out to confirm there is actually no spark? - not just the timing light not picking it up.   Do coils have 12V when cranking?

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1 hour ago, Adamw said:

Everything looks ok in the log, there is spark and fuel being commanded. 

Have you pulled a plug out to confirm there is actually no spark? - not just the timing light not picking it up.   Do coils have 12V when cranking?

Yes, pulled the coil pack out and put a spare plug in it to test while im cranking the engine - no spark.

ill get a multimeter on the coil to test it.

should the ecu be showing the ignition and injection “on” and turn green when cranking? They stay off the whole time. Fuel pump goes green, isc solenoid too. Inj and ign look like theyre not being triggered at all on the input list.

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3 hours ago, tookwik4u said:

Should the ecu be showing the ignition and injection “on” and turn green when cranking? They stay off the whole time.

That is normal, only ON/Off type aux functions show their status. Drives used for Injection and Ignition will show off all the time. 

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20 hours ago, Adamw said:

That is normal, only ON/Off type aux functions show their status. Drives used for Injection and Ignition will show off all the time. 

ok so I have 12.5v at the number 1 ignition coil when the key is on, and it drops to 9.5v when cranked. Is that normal? or should it still be getting 12v while cranking? (my battery is boot mounted and have 2gauge battery cable running to 2 posts where battery used to sit in the engine bay, hope thats not causing the voltage issue)

Edited by tookwik4u
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6 hours ago, Adamw said:

9.5V is a little lower than it should be, but it is not going to prevent it from sparking.  The ecu only shows 9.5V when cranking in your log above also.

Ended up moving the battery back to the front temporarily and its getting spark on crank now. Was able to set the base timing correctly and now ive got to start messing around with the fuel.. its not starting with the current settings.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Adamw,

been trying to diagnose some other new issues these last couple of days, in the process of trying to start the engine (basically a couple of days before i started this thread) im now at a point where the engine is struggling/not turning over at all now. Ive bought a new battery and starter motor and its basically the same deal. The engine turns over alot better without the spark plugs in, but when they are in its cactus. (See videos)

Im trying to exhaust all ideas before taking it somewhere and paying someone else to deal with it, is there anything you can think of that may cause this? 
 

Thanks

 

9 minutes ago, tookwik4u said:

Hey Adamw,

been trying to diagnose some other new issues these last couple of days, in the process of trying to start the engine (basically a couple of days before i started this thread) im now at a point where the engine is struggling/not turning over at all now. Ive bought a new battery and starter motor and its basically the same deal. The engine turns over alot better without the spark plugs in, but when they are in its cactus. (See videos)

Im trying to exhaust all ideas before taking it somewhere and paying someone else to deal with it, is there anything you can think of that may cause this? 
 

Thanks

 

I cant upload the other video, too big combined…

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Does it turn over with normal effort on a spanner on the crank? Or is it tight?   Assuming the engine is not tight/seized then you have low voltage reaching the starter motor.  Could be a bad ground or bad cable etc.  

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13 minutes ago, Adamw said:

Does it turn over with normal effort on a spanner on the crank? Or is it tight?   Assuming the engine is not tight/seized then you have low voltage reaching the starter motor.  Could be a bad ground or bad cable etc.  

it turns over fairly easily without the plugs in, abit harder with them in. I cant imagine the engine is seized, it was running and driving well before i started the project. Its just been sitting on jackstands for about 2.5 years now, without being started. I also had the head pulled off for a clean and cams and the crank turned effortlessly.

Ill check cables again but they’re all brand new.

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Have you measured battery voltage both before and during cranking?  Have you measured voltage at the starter when cranking ?  Those would be the first steps in any cranking diagnostics.

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Hey Adamw,

I managed to sort out the cranking issue, was just a bad ground to the block. Its now cranking close to 200rpms so the new battery and starter have made a difference. Ive attached a log, its still not starting though. Is there anything you can see preventing a start? im at a point now where i think i just need to take it to someone..

i appreciate your help, thanks

Log 20-10-21 5;02;56 pm.llg

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Most of the basics in the log like like there should be signs of life.  Have you confirmed there is spark when cranking?  Have you tried a squirt of starter fluid to confirm there is fuel?

 

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1 minute ago, Adamw said:

Most of the basics in the log like like there should be signs of life.  Have you confirmed there is spark when cranking?  Have you tried a squirt of starter fluid to confirm there is fuel?

 

Ok cool, ive basically set it up as per the ecu manual for initial start so i was expecting it to start by now.

there is definitely spark while cranking, havent tried starter fluid, ill get some and give it a try.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Adam,

Ive sorted out a big issue, did a compression test only to find i had none. So i went back to the cams and dialled them in again (they were wrong) and had somewhat decent numbers for cylinder compression. now it sounds alot more promising starting up. still struggling to get it to start and idle but its one step closer.

ive attached the map and log, been playing around with the polarities for cam and crank triggers because they keep counting up. Managed to get it to crank without recording numbers but still no life.

playing around with the master fuel makes small changes but still not good enough to start.

injector dead times should be pretty close, the manufacturer only gave me times for 9,10,12,14,16v so i worked out the rest roughly close.

have also tried changing the trigger offset 360 degrees out (66degrees on the timing light, set it to -294degrees but sounded worse)

Log 12-11-21 12;30;59 pm.llg Supra File MODIFIED.pcl

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30 minutes ago, Adamw said:

Have you done this yet?

Yeah, not much difference. I know its got fuel going in, i had a look through when i took the spark plugs out and there was fuel on the piston and the plug tip was abit wet too

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Adam,

Ive finally got it started! Problem was timing being slightly out and causing lower compression, probably a few other things i messed around with too.

Anyway, couple of questions:

1- I was setting the base timing with a timing light, set it right (on 10deg offset) with the injectors were turned off. After i got it running i put the light back on it and the mark was hitting 0deg. As i opened the "set base timing" the engine idled up and the mark was hitting 10deg offset... is that normal? closed the calibration window and the idle wend back down and mark was hitting the 0deg. Found it strange.

2- The engine is running very rich. It sprayed (what i think is un-burned fuel) from the exhaust on the first start up for abit, and alot of black smoke. Its not doing it anymore but the exhaust fumes burn my eyes when its running. (its in the garage, roller door open but doesnt help much). How can i adjust the fuel to have it run abit better? or do i just leave it as is and just get it to the tuners?

ive attached a log of it idling.

I appreciate your help man, kept me from going insane trying to get it running. Ive learned alot though, which has made it worthwhile.

running log.llg

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  1. When you open the "Set Base Timing" window the ignition timing is locked to whatever value you have in the top box.  You are then meant to adjust the offset until the timing marks match that value you have in the top box.  Typically this would be something like 10degBTDC to match whatever timing marks the engine has.  
  2. Adjust the master fuel setting to do an overall fuel adjustment. 
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