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20v atomX problems after updating firmware


smallthecat

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15 minutes ago, Adamw said:

The triggerscope shows nothing.  Can you do another one, make sure you click the capture button when the engine is cranking or running, not before.  

I dont see much else that would cause two cylinders to be missing.  Do the ITB's look synced?  If you pull #4 coil out and run it with an old spark plug fitted where you can see it, is there a spark?

You can also try increasing and decreasing the engine capacity setting which is an easy way to give it more or less fuel as a test to see if it is too lean or similar.  Try it at say 2000cc to see if it makes any difference.

Yeah I'll shoot down and try get another scope, that's weird that scope has no info now I checked it before I uploaded it. I will also try increase capacity and see what happens. 

ITB's are synced, haven't touch them since it was last running. WIll double check though.

I pulled coil 3 out and got spark on my chassis. Haven't tried 4 but assumed if 3 had spark then 4 also would. 

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New log and trigger scopes. Still just won't start, did fire a couple times. Changed to 1800cc and 2000c but could smell fuel so guessing too rich. Think I logged all that as well, made changes during log. Any Ideas? Must be timing I think? Anyway to tell where I should be setting BTDC using the trigger scope? 

PC Datalog - 2022-04-22 9;31;32 am.llgx TriggerScopeLog.llgx TriggerScopeLog2.llgx

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16 minutes ago, Adamw said:

Yes trigger is fine.  Voltage is a little borderline low but ecu appears to be happy.

Set your arming thresholds like below if not already.

Did you check the base timing yet?

vApNSoL.png 

Set at .2v and .5v already yeah.

Haven't been able to get it to start and the timing light I have won't work with a low signal unfortunately, it might be broken so I have ordered a new timing light. Changing the base timing around from -360° to 0° to +360° seems to have no effect on the stroke of the engine. As in, you'd expect one to be the exhaust stroke and it splutter or kick flames out the intake but nothing happens moving the timing offset. Thoughts on why that could be?

I've taken plugs out to let the cylinders dry out and it seemed pretty wet in there. Maybe once it dries out moving the timing will do something

Where is a good place to start for my base timing if the engine is setup to factory TDC settings?

Does injection timing need to move to align with the base timing once its set close and running? Injection is currently at 400btdc on the base map but if my base was -120° then would I bring that back 120° aswell?

3 minutes ago, smallthecat said:

Set at .2v and .5v already yeah.

Haven't been able to get it to start and the timing light I have won't work with a low signal unfortunately, it might be broken so I have ordered a new timing light. Changing the base timing around from -360° to 0° to +360° seems to have no effect on the stroke of the engine. As in, you'd expect one to be the exhaust stroke and it splutter or kick flames out the intake but nothing happens moving the timing offset. Thoughts on why that could be?

I've taken plugs out to let the cylinders dry out and it seemed pretty wet in there. Maybe once it dries out moving the timing will do something

Where is a good place to start for my base timing if the engine is setup to factory TDC settings?

Does injection timing need to move to align with the base timing once its set close and running? Injection is currently at 400btdc on the base map but if my base was -120° then would I bring that back 120° aswell?

disregard injector timing question, there's a good explanation in the help menu.

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