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Check Link Fury G4X Wiring Diagram


pioneersti
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Hi, I will be installing a Link Fury G4X into rally car with a Honda K24 engine. I've been doing this for many years, but first time with a Link ECU. I always create wiring diagrams prior to building a harness, and would like to ask if there are any assigned inputs or outputs that should be changed to different pins, or any other changes in general to the wiring that would be recommended. Since this will be a motorsport spec harness using mil spec wire and sealed with Raychem DR25, I want to make sure everything is correct before proceeding to build the harness.

I have also attached the calibration file I did to suit the wiring and sensors.

Thanks.

Link_Fury_G4X_A_and_B_Loom_Honda_K24.pdf Mark_Fury_G4X_025.pclx

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Looks good to me.  Note the pins labeled "Shield/Gnd" are effectively sensor ground also, so typically for example on the A plug I would have cam and crank sensor grounds and their shields all spliced together to a single wire connected to A7.  Then similarly on the B plug I would have the knock shield and ground both connected to B17.  Only mentioning as it is quite a tidy way to do it Vs trying to separate the grounds out.  

And in a similar train of thought to aerace_fab's comment above, I would typically also have a spares connector with say a couple of DI's, AN Volt inputs, a 5V and a 0V as it is not uncommon for users to decide they need something extra in future. 

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16 hours ago, aerace_fab said:

No need for speed sensor? 

The customer hasn't added one because he will be using GPS speed from his dash. I have advised him that a speed sensor would still be beneficial to him as it would allow him to utilize boost by gear, which I think he may need with a forced induction K24.

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15 hours ago, Adamw said:

Looks good to me.  Note the pins labeled "Shield/Gnd" are effectively sensor ground also, so typically for example on the A plug I would have cam and crank sensor grounds and their shields all spliced together to a single wire connected to A7.  Then similarly on the B plug I would have the knock shield and ground both connected to B17.  Only mentioning as it is quite a tidy way to do it Vs trying to separate the grounds out.  

And in a similar train of thought to aerace_fab's comment above, I would typically also have a spares connector with say a couple of DI's, AN Volt inputs, a 5V and a 0V as it is not uncommon for users to decide they need something extra in future. 

Thanks for the reply, and all the good info.

Using just one sensor ground on the B connector would be easier and neater as you said. I'll revise that on the diagram.

Totally agree with spare inputs and outputs. I usually use a cloth type automotive electrical tape for the cabin wiring, so adding more inputs and outputs that reside in the cabin are not difficult after the harness is completed. For the engine bay wiring, which is sealed with DR25, I usually run several 'dummy' wires to a Deutsch DTM connector, so they can be used for any future features required. If using a mil spec firewall connector I add 'dummy' wires to use all the available pins on the connector for both cabin and engine bay side, and again terminate both with DTM connectors.

On a different query, I just did the install and tune of a Monsoon on a 4A-GE which came with a harness built for the Link Monsoon. The system is using a Link CAN Lambda and we are getting errors 33 and 16 (from memory). I will try adding a capacitor to filter any interference, but was wondering if I should also add a noise suppressor for the coils (using Toyota COP)? The symptoms indicate it could be noise related as the CAN Lambda will start giving an accurate reading (we have an AEM X series analog output on an AN volt input) about 5 minutes after start up, but once the engine gets past about 5,500 rpm (will have to refer back to log), the CAN Lambda stops giving a reading.

What noise suppressor would be recommended for the coils? I may start adding them to future installs anyway to reduce chances of interference.

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Error 16 and 33 together would usually be related to some noise issue.  The cap in the power supply wiring will usually solve it.  As for suppression for the ignition system, it is always good practice.  The common toyota ones are about the tidiest solution I know of with a sealed connector, there are 1 and 2 pin versions (1 pin version grounds through mounting bolt).  Example of two pin:  https://www.nzefi.com/product/noise-suppressor-filter-with-connector/

Mopar 68080837AB is a nice one too.  Otherwise the common aftermarket one is something like the UZB111

 

 

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1 hour ago, Adamw said:

Error 16 and 33 together would usually be related to some noise issue.  The cap in the power supply wiring will usually solve it.  As for suppression for the ignition system, it is always good practice.  The common toyota ones are about the tidiest solution I know of with a sealed connector, there are 1 and 2 pin versions (1 pin version grounds through mounting bolt).  Example of two pin:  https://www.nzefi.com/product/noise-suppressor-filter-with-connector/

Mopar 68080837AB is a nice one too.  Otherwise the common aftermarket one is something like the UZB111

 

 

Thanks! I think I'll try and find some from Toyota, as you said, it seems like quite a neat solution.

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  • 2 weeks later...
3 hours ago, pioneersti said:

I have some questions re ground wires. I know to run separate wires to engine ground and not join to a single wire, but with the Link Fury are all four grounds required (A34, A25, B34 and B25)?

Also is 18 gauge mil spec wire suitable?

Thanks.

I would suggest yes, 18awg M22759 is plenty, I tend to use 20awg and 22awg. So you will be fine.

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The reason for multiple grounds is to handle the total current for all the lowside switching outputs.  Aux outputs can do about 2A each, e-throttle about 4A, lambda about 3A, injector drives can do about 5A each.  For most applications 2 main grounds is enough, if you have more than about 15A lowside devices I would consider more.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks Adam and aerace_fab ! I took your advise and ran all four grounds, and used the 18awg M22759 so should definitely be good with ground.

The customer wants to be able to run his fans and water pump via a switch for cool down after runs, and I have done this quite a few times for customers with another brand ECU with no side effects. However this customer also wants to have the dash lights (warning lights). I made a diagram to better explain, would you let me know if there could be any possible issues with wiring the switches and dash lights this way?

If there could be possible issues, would a diode as in the water pump section of the diagram resolve them?

Thanks.

Temp_Kill_Switch_Fans_Water_Pum.pdf

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You cant have live 12V connected to an aux when the ecu is shut off, it will backfeed.

3 options:

  1. Probably easiest would be to change the fan and pump relays to be positive switched.  Use aux 5-8 in high side drive mode for these two relays (ie ECU sends out 12V to turn on relays).  Then your override switch would be to +12Vand you wont backfeed.
  2. Wire as per the "ECU hold power" wiring in the help file, then you could set the ecu to run the fan and pump for sometime after shutdown.
  3. Change wiring so that the ecu is also powered up when the override switch is on.  
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Thanks Adam. I figured that would be the case.

When he is using the switches the ECU will be on, as the ignition needs to be on to use the by pass switches.

Still, I am going to suggest he not bother with the dash lights.

However, just for clarification though, as per the diagram for the water pump section, wouldn't the diode (for example IN4001) in the wire leading to the switch and light, prevent any backfeed to the aux output?

 

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2 hours ago, pioneersti said:

However, just for clarification though, as per the diagram for the water pump section, wouldn't the diode (for example IN4001) in the wire leading to the switch and light, prevent any backfeed to the aux output?

You would still get a back feed if the relay pin 86 is live 12V when the ecu is off.  

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