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Celica 3SGTE


Ninetails
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Hi Link community! :ph34r: 

 

I have been searching and reading on these forums some time and I am impressed with the help provided.

Briefly I would like to be open about my knowledge in this area(tuning) to be very newbie-ish. I usually take my time to read up on subjects or things I dont understand, but there will be alot of new things for me here. Hopefully I wont be to annoying.

 

Car: Toyota Celica ST185 Carlos Sainz, 2gen 3SGTE.

Its my first time setting up a Link g4+ pnp, or any aftermarket ecu for that matter. I ordered it very early on before I intended to use it. Unluckily for me I got the wrong unit. The seller sold me the mr2rev1, and I learned after I shouldve gotten the st205 version for the CS. Problem because it was so long after I had bought it, so I got creative and got the schematics for both and I have replugged\wired everything to work with the unit I got. 

 

Its running, tuned a little only on road, but it has died/stalled on me a couple of times which im still not 100% why. My fuel relay was getting very very hot, and I have rewired the whole system so it goes on its own relay now with power directly from the battery, im hoping that was the problem. I was hoping someone could take a look on "todays" situation and perhaps guide me somewhat on things that might look off or weird. Any help is much appreciated.

 

More about the car:

2Gen 3SGTE Engine, CP Pistons 86.5, Manley rods, Acl bearings, ARP bolts, TVIS delete plate, EGR removed, hks super sqv iv, 9 hole manifold, mishimoto catch can, mishimoto radiator, turbotechnics S148 hybrid turbo, apexi straight power intake (afm removed), hks metal head gasket, 3" downpipe, hks silent exhaust, link 3bar map sensor, link can lambda, racerx fuel line, walbro 450fuel pump, mac 3 port solenoid, long iat sensor in intake (coldstartinjectorposition), deatschwerks dwr1000 fpr 4bar pressure (4bar was more stable then 3bar), bosch ev14 1100cc injectors and probably more i cant remember right away.

 

After the car is a little more stable I will get it on a dyno, I just dont have the money to do it right away. Each hour costs quite a bit. Plus I really like to learn as much as I can. I have done everything on this car myself.

 

I have attached the latest ecu file and logg. ^_^

And again thank you so much for your time even reading this. Cheers.

CarlosSainz v15.pclr logg 04.06.22.llg

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Your setup sounds very similar to mine, although I'm a billet ct20b on a 2.1L stroker 3SGTE.  That said, I've attached my tune, feel free to compare, but I would advise against copy/pasting the ignition map or anything like that.

ID1050x's

stock gen2 cams

Mac 3 port solenoid

TVIS deleted

billet ct20b, KO downpipe, Apexi N1 exhaust

flex fuel, mainly tuned on E85, haven't done much on the 93 octane map yet

Link canLambda

AEM map sensor

Rife IAT sensor

coil on plug setup using the stock distributor triggers

Grimm 1991 MR2 5.23.2022.pclr

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2 hours ago, Ninetails said:

I was hoping someone could take a look on "todays" situation and perhaps guide me somewhat on things that might look off or weird. Any help is much appreciated.

What was the situation you want looked at?  Was it the the stall in the middle of the log?

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23 hours ago, INSW20 said:

Your setup sounds very similar to mine, although I'm a billet ct20b on a 2.1L stroker 3SGTE.  That said, I've attached my tune, feel free to compare, but I would advise against copy/pasting the ignition map or anything like that.

ID1050x's

stock gen2 cams

Mac 3 port solenoid

TVIS deleted

billet ct20b, KO downpipe, Apexi N1 exhaust

flex fuel, mainly tuned on E85, haven't done much on the 93 octane map yet

Link canLambda

AEM map sensor

Rife IAT sensor

coil on plug setup using the stock distributor triggers

Grimm 1991 MR2 5.23.2022.pclr 167.26 kB · 5 downloads

Cheers I will have a look. B)

 

 

23 hours ago, Adamw said:

What was the situation you want looked at?  Was it the the stall in the middle of the log?

Im sorry I was a bit vague in my opening, because I know its a tall ask - but after my car has stalled on me so many times I have gotten a bit "scared" to drive it.

And also very uncertain if I have done something wrong etc. I was hoping someone could do sort of a skim through to see if there is something bonkers or red flags.

Things that maybe should be turned off\on. Hoping to get control of the knock setup as soon as possible for example. 

 

Again thank you so much for your time. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Usually if it's stalling when coming to a stop or idle drops too low when putting in neutral you need to do a couple things:
1. when fully warm, adjust idle air bypass or air bleed to the point that the IAC duty fully warm is 10-20%.  If no idle air bleed adjustment is available, increase base throttle position and reset TPS calibration when done.
2. Set your base IAC position to slightly higher than whatever duty it idles at warm so that it will work down from a higher idle to proper idle position when returning to idle.
3. After those things adjust hold% up until it returns nicely from a throttle blip and doesn't hang or dip below idle speed target.

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Apologizes though, I know it was vast. I have joined hpacademy and will try and educate myself a bit more before I continue. :)

Cheers Kris. Thanks again for all your time.

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