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Trigger or ignition issue?


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Hi Guys,

Did one day a head job due to a failed timing belt tensioner.. :twisted: At the same time changed spark plug wires to Accel wires from 034 coil wires (runnning 034 coils). After that I have had massive trigger problems. Trigger issues begins to appear once the rpm is close to 5700 rpms and boost starts to build up (i´ve got a really big turbo in 2.0 litre 4 banger Volvo engine). Trigger error counter jumps immediately up to 15 and rpm counter to 12000 rpms and engine literally stalls since the rpm limiter jumps in. The issue is similar and repeatable once rpms reaches +5500.

According to the logger, both Trig 1 and 2 status shows "yes" all the time and there is no trigger errors on idle or lower revs, perfect readings there. Before the head job, I had no issues with the trigger but some occasional misfires that made me to change the coil wires.

Where to start to look? Is this more ignition related problem or trigger related one? The total loss of trigger makes me believe, this is ignition related one.

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Might be a bit of a combo of both.

What are you using in the way of triggers? If its multi tooth crank with a sync on cam it would be worth checking the can sync is not occurring at the same point as a trigger on the crank.

And if its multi tooth missing on crank with a single tooth sync sync make sure the cam tooth is not on top of the tooth after the gap.

I would also try going back to the old leads to see if it has any effect.

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Might be a bit of a combo of both.

What are you using in the way of triggers? If its multi tooth crank with a sync on cam it would be worth checking the can sync is not occurring at the same point as a trigger on the crank.

And if its multi tooth missing on crank with a single tooth sync sync make sure the cam tooth is not on top of the tooth after the gap.

I would also try going back to the old leads to see if it has any effect.

Old leads helped in a way I´m only having misfires like before changing the leads. Not complete loss of a trigger. This makes me belive the ignition devices are messing up with the trigger signals.

And now the trigger set up:

Trigger 1: Reluctor sensor and 60-2 trigger type.

Trigger 2: Hall senror and sync mode as cam level (cam level wheel is covering 180 degrees of a cam)

By stating "it would be worth checking the can sync is not occurring at the same point as a trigger on the crank" and "if its multi tooth missing on crank with a single tooth sync sync make sure the cam tooth is not on top of the tooth after the gap", do you mean the physical location of a cam wheel / missing tooth on the crank?

EDIT: What kind of an effect would there be if I change the filtering level of a crank signal to 2 or 3?

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Is it possible that your wires of the trigger sensors are to close to the ignition wires?

That corrupts the signal. Try to reroute or use better shielding.

They shouldn´t be. I´ll put some dielectric grease on leads and plugs to prevent possible arc. Let´s see if that have any effect.

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The grease don't help.if your trigger wires are parallel to the ignition wires you have induction.

To test you could route the wires straight to the trigger sensors.( 1 feet distance to all other wires)

Lemmy, do you mean the ignition wires from ECU?

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Sometimes the cure is too easy to be true... :D

WP_20130627_004_zps6872530d.jpg

I put the grease on the lead connectors on coil and plug side and no misfires. I gotta source out quality leads in order to prevent arcing. I´ve heard Magnecor manufactures ones that are fully suppressed (RFI etc..)?

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