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Glanza 4EFTE Trigger problems


danmintern
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My Glanza was previously wired using the stock 24 tooth + cam pulse from the distributor sequentially and It ran great for several thousand miles this way. During a recent rebuild I decided to upgrade to a different type of oil pump which houses a Toyota 2pin crank sensor and 36-2 crank Sprocket.

https://flos.ie/shop/crank-pulley-trigger-kit-4efte-5efte/


I'm Using a G4 + Monsoon wired for sequential fuelling and ignition

 

Ive re wired my trigger 1 crank signal to the new sensor and input the new settings in the menu to suit

Reluctor

Multi tooth/missing

36 teeth

2 missing

Trigger location crank

 

I've kept the trigger 2 cam signal the same as before with cam pulse X 1

The trigger signals are green in run time values but blink on and off and knock up errors quickly. The rpm flashes from 0 to an unrealistic number during cranking.

 

I have unplugged the cam sensor plug and cranked and there are no errors with only the new crank trigger on its own. Is the 36-2 compatible with the stock 4efte cam pulse? If not is there a way I can modify the original 24 tooth crank wheel and use it as my cam signal?

 

Or could I have wired the new crank sensor round the wrong way? The sensor has a red wire(I wired to white trigger 1) and a white wire(I wired to black ground)

 

Any help would be much appreciated as I've got a mapping session in a week's time. If not I'll have to re wire back to how it was. Although there were no problems the mapper recommended that I upgrade to a dedicated crank trigger wheel etc

Dan

 

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From a couple of references I have I would agree with your wiring - red being signal and white being the ground.  

It is pretty odd for the cam signal to cause a trigger error with this type of missing tooth trigger, so this shouldnt be an issue.  Can you attach a copy of your tune, as well as a log of it cranking, one with the cam sensor connected and one without.  

Is it using a Link loom or a modified factory loom or something?

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Thanks for the reply Adam,

 

the Loom was a 2.5m NZefi one that came with the ecu when I purchased so started from scratch. Anything else let me know. Is there any reason why I couldnt revert back tot he 24 tooth wheel for now for the mapping session then try to get the new crank trigger system working after?

 

cheers

 

Dan

Cranking Log with Cam Sensor.llg Cranking Log without Cam Sensor.llg New Crank sensor map.pclr

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There is no RPM showing at all with the cam sensor unplugged.  It is almost like there is a wiring issue which causes the cam signal to come through on trig 1 when the cam sensor is plugged in?  Can you try pulling the dizzy out and spin it by hand or with a cordless drill or similar to confirm that only trig 2 shows a signal when you do that. 

57 minutes ago, danmintern said:

Is there any reason why I couldnt revert back tot he 24 tooth wheel for now for the mapping session then try to get the new crank trigger system working after?

Typically with a cam driven trigger you will have more timing scatter so the tune needs to be more conservative.  You can often get more advance in and therefore more power with a crank trigger.  So you could do it, but you will possibly end up with a less optimised tune.  

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I have reverted back to the original setup as I'm concerned I wont get the new crank sensor issue sorted in time for the mapping. My bad for leaving to the last minute! I guess I can go back to the tuner and he can optimise my ignition timing later once the new trigger is working

Trigger 1(white wire) is now wired to the 24 tooth on dizzy

Trigger 2(white wire) to cam pulse

Both trigger grounds(black wires)are both wired to the ground pin on the dizzy

When I wired the new crank sensor I just unpinned the trigger 1 and terminated to new plug and split away trigger 1 ground into the new plug also. I left trigger 2 and it's ground as the were in the dizzy.

When I get a chance Adam I'll wire them up again and do as you say with a drill and make another data log for you.

 

Your help is much appreciated

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When I mentioned white and black wires for the trigger inputs and ground I've realised these are just the colours of the sheilded cable NZefi used to build the flying loom. All the circuits came conveniently labeled from them.

 

Just looked at my link pin out sheet and the colour coding is Black for trigger 1, Red for trigger 2, Green for shield Ground.

I'm sure all the wires are going to the correct pins on the ECU as labeled from NZefi despite the miss match in colour coding. Just thought I'd mention in case it was confusing.

 

Engine is running nicely again on the stock triggers for now

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On 8/9/2022 at 10:48 AM, Adamw said:

There is no RPM showing at all with the cam sensor unplugged.  It is almost like there is a wiring issue which causes the cam signal to come through on trig 1 when the cam sensor is plugged in?  Can you try pulling the dizzy out and spin it by hand or with a cordless drill or similar to confirm that only trig 2 shows a signal when you do that. 

Typically with a cam driven trigger you will have more timing scatter so the tune needs to be more conservative.  You can often get more advance in and therefore more power with a crank trigger.  So you could do it, but you will possibly end up with a less optimised tune.  

Adam do you think having run the new crank Sensor wiring close to the starter solenoid could have caused the issue? The crank sensor is on a flying lead and plug and the join ran fairly close over the top of the starter.

 

I'm wondering if I could order some new sheilded cable and run a better route for it.

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No that wouldnt usually be an issue.  Electrical noise issues typically show up closer to peak torque when the ignition system is under maximum load.  

Do you know anyone with an oscilloscope or bigger ecu with the scope function built in?

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