Jump to content

Speedo correction


don17

Recommended Posts

I have a supra link in my supra, 2jzge non turbo converted to turbo. My speedo is out because I have bigger tyres on the rear, I have a mechanical driven speedo sensor on the gearbox 3 wire, factory wiring. How do I wire the speedo sensor on the gearbox through the ecu to correct the dash? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The sensor on the trans is a hall effect sensor - so you would need to create a similar square wave output from the ecu - I'm not sure if any of the PWM outputs could do that natively or if you would need to add some other hardware.  

Without using the Link you can use something like the Dakota Digital SGI-100BT which has the ability to adjust an electronic speed signal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went through this on my MR2, wired the gearbox sensor directly to the ECU and then wired a spare Auxiliary output to the signal wire that used to go to the gearbox speed sensor. From memory I did need to change the power to the gearbox speed sensor from 12V to 5V for it to work with the Link.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Vaughan said:

I went through this on my MR2, wired the gearbox sensor directly to the ECU and then wired a spare Auxiliary output to the signal wire that used to go to the gearbox speed sensor. From memory I did need to change the power to the gearbox speed sensor from 12V to 5V for it to work with the Link.

When you wired directly to the ecu is that to a DI ? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Vaughan said:

I went through this on my MR2, wired the gearbox sensor directly to the ECU and then wired a spare Auxiliary output to the signal wire that used to go to the gearbox speed sensor. From memory I did need to change the power to the gearbox speed sensor from 12V to 5V for it to work with the Link.

Sorry I'm still abit confused,  so you taken the signal wire going for the gearbox, wired that into a digital input. And then have a aux output going to the dash speedo? And the 12v supply to the gearbox was cut and used a 5v supply instead?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Vaughan Why would a hall effect sensor need to be 5v instead of 12v for the link to recognize it?  It's looking for falling or rising edges I thought. 

Regarding MR2s (for posterity) only 1993 and later models used an electronic signal to the dash to drive the OEM speedometer, so 1992 and earlier models won't work this way as the speedometer is driven by a mechanical cable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, koracing said:

@Vaughan Why would a hall effect sensor need to be 5v instead of 12v for the link to recognize it?  It's looking for falling or rising edges I thought

I believe the issue with the 12V is that it doesn't pull low enough to go under the ground threshold, or at least that was my experience on my car.

7 hours ago, koracing said:

Regarding MR2s (for posterity) only 1993 and later models used an electronic signal to the dash to drive the OEM speedometer, so 1992 and earlier models won't work this way as the speedometer is driven by a mechanical cable.

I have an e153 lsd from a 1992 in my car (equivalent to a 1993 in the US) but you can also use mechanical to electrical adapters from st18x Celicas if you are converting to an electronic cluster with an earlier gearbox.

 

20 hours ago, don17 said:

Sorry I'm still abit confused,  so you taken the signal wire going for the gearbox, wired that into a digital input. And then have a aux output going to the dash speedo? And the 12v supply to the gearbox was cut and used a 5v supply instead?

I have attached a picture of the pinout for the standard Toyota 3 pin speedo plug. Run all three wires from this to the ECU and then run a spare auxiliary output to the wire that use to go into the signal pin. For the ground you may not need to run that to the ECU specifically due to everything sharing the chassis ground, might be worth just mocking everything and testing before finalising it.

Capture.PNG

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Vaughan said:

I believe the issue with the 12V is that it doesn't pull low enough to go under the ground threshold, or at least that was my experience on my car.

This is what I was wondering.  I've got a 91 car here I'm adding the Toyota cruise control speed sensor that piggybacks inline with the speedometer cable on top of the trans (item F in the pic below) to as a possible input for the speed signal as typically the dash speed signals are super noisy in the Link software (but works on other ecus ok).  If there's a problem with the 12V input to that sensor, I will look at possibly pulling the signal down somehow, or opening the harness and going with 5v instead.

speed-sender-png.69947

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How low does the hall signal need to fall to be recognized by the Link?  I'm bench testing some options with a scope and multi-meter.

On the bench adding a 1k pullup between signal and power supply (12.2v) makes the hall signal go between 1.4v and 12.2v.  14v input it goes from 1.6v and 14.0v.  A 10k pullup makes the voltage go between 0.17v and 12.1v with 12.2v input, or .19v and 13.8v at 14v input.  Given that: adding a 10k pullup seems like the way to go to ensure a proper low for the Link?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The high threshold is about 1.6V, low threshold is about 1.0V.  The DI pull-up if enabled is 4K7 to regulated 12V, there is a low drop schottky in series with the pull-up so consider it more like 11.7V pull-up.  I would expect it should work fine with almost any automotive hall sensor out there provided the sensor and ECU ground are at similar potential. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
10 hours ago, koracing said:

Are you still needing help?  I would try Aux1-8 outputs to drive the speedometer as they should float high (~12v) when the output is inactive so pulse between 12v and ground.

Okay I'll try this thanks,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
On 10/31/2023 at 2:34 AM, koracing said:

Are you still needing help?  I would try Aux1-8 outputs to drive the speedometer as they should float high (~12v) when the output is inactive so pulse between 12v and ground.

yes, still after some help. So ive tired wirng up the speedo as per this post linked, using a aux input and digital but dosen't seem to work, when i start moving the speedo will move up to about 10km/hr and stay there until coming to a stop? on the G4 software AUX for speedo becomes green when moving, then turns of when stopped.  anymore help would be great

this is my log file https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z9axyr7mvv1ey4b3jz2z3/newspeedo.pclr?rlkey=y5y9f5kbiwiga20bo2odyj49n&dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/dbzodpsn52jugjf2hwarf/screenshot.png?rlkey=rua4tw8akvwqdy1uokkbq99s1&dl=0

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Vaughan said:

Shouldn't multi be set to 0.8333, offset to 0Hz and max freq to 4000Hz for now until you know how far it should actually move?

Capture.PNG

I really don't know what these values should be I'll try that today tho and get back to you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, don17 said:

I really don't know what these values should be I'll try that today tho and get back to you

Help manual explains what each of them do, just single click on one of them and press F1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, Vaughan said:

Help manual explains what each of them do, just single click on one of them and press F1

no worries, I do have a bit of a look but sometimes unsure where to start. I changed some settings

offset to 0

multi to 0.98

max frequency to 400hz

the speedo moves now and speed is pretty acurate but the need response seems abit slow?

also, when i take off the needle jumps to about 20km/hr almost straight away then will start to move accurately as speed is increased, any idea what to check?

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/99zr9qtqpodz6r46ezmz9/newspeedo1.pclr?rlkey=u1h8pssq16fhe5567y4xitzhe&dl=0

new log file

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, don17 said:

That is a basemap(.pclr) file not a log (.llg) file, you made the same comment earlier.

The Multi of 0.83 I provided earlier was based on your other thread where you said you were doing 120 when it said 100.

DI 1 has a calibration value of 200 so 10Hz input is about 18kph and from memory G4+ PWM outputs have a minimum frequency of 10Hz so that would explain why it is jumping to ~20kph immediately.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, Vaughan said:

That is a basemap(.pclr) file not a log (.llg) file, you made the same comment earlier.

The Multi of 0.83 I provided earlier was based on your other thread where you said you were doing 120 when it said 100.

DI 1 has a calibration value of 200 so 10Hz input is about 18kph and from memory G4+ PWM outputs have a minimum frequency of 10Hz so that would explain why it is jumping to ~20kph immediately.

no worries, i appricate the help. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/hbwp6zkaxa14u4m19abhi/start-up.llg?rlkey=ulbqou1w22x4so1ds4t7nh2e6&dl=0

sorry this is my log,  is there anything i can do with the minimum frequency to stop it jumping up so fast? its not a big deal tho

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, don17 said:

is there anything i can do with the minimum frequency to stop it jumping up so fast? its not a big deal tho

As far as I'm aware it is a hardware limitation on the G4+ ECUs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...