Bosch lsu adv

[black_gold_wrxsti]

Car has covered 3k miles with this wideband and had no issues haven't changed anything at all 

On recent trip out I noticed on idle from cold it was reading afr at 18.1 and lambda 1.6 I drove it 20 miles and it continues to stay at this level turned the car off disconnected battery and around 4 hours later started it up for drive home again 18.1 and 1.6 lambda took it easy on the way home .

Downloaded my ecu logs and you can see its spikes from 0.6.lambda to 1.6 over and over.

I have been told this sound ls like a failing lambda sensor ? 

I have read a few concerns about these bosch lsu adv sensors not lasting too long.

Is there any better widebands out there?

Thanks 

[essb00]

what lambda controller are you using?

[koracing]

I had a bad LSU 4.9 sensor on a car I was remote tuning in Austria this morning that did exactly this same thing with both an AEM 30-4110 controller and the Link CAN Lambda.  New sensor cured it.

[Dave Kriedeman]

Hi everyone,

it has been a long time since I have been on the forum, so hopefully I can add some useful information for you all to consider.

In regards to this topic and sensor faults etc

Along with the obvious things such as sensor location, making sure to minimise the chances of condensation (H2O) contamination, and creating thermal shock on the sensor itself,  the main contributing factor to most wideband reading issues is covered by a number of words, all with the same basic meaning!

These words that follow, are counterfeit, copy, forged, knock-off, etc.

My write-up here is focused on counterfeit sensors.

Unless using a Thunder or Fury with direct termination and you are using some form of wideband controller using an analog volt output to a dedicated analog volt input on your ECU, make sure this is set up correctly and there are no earth looping issues, etc.

Also if using a CAN BUS wideband unit of any brand that it is also configured correctly.

Also remembering the price, if these are cheap then they are as they say too good to be true, and probably not genuine.

I have had several discussions with Bosch over this very topic.

You see, our friends that are pretty much experts at copying just about everything are making it damn near impossible in some circumstances to identify the real fantastic BOSCH product from the fake, these days.

So I shall offer a few examples for you to keep an eye out for when you next wish to part with your hard-earned dollars and purchase a true BOSCH WIDEBAND OXYGEN SENSOR.

Firstly is the packaging.

If it's in the old yellow box with red writing there is a fair chance it is a fake, unless it is covered in cobwebs and dust and is old stock.

The packaging should be in a dark blue box with white diagonal banding with the BOSCH name in red capital letters and a grey Bosch logo before the name. 

The box also has images of starter motors, sparkplugs, pulleys, oil filters, batteries, and other automotive parts on it.

However, sadly they have even caught onto this and upgraded the box colours and other details.

At the top end of the box, the end that you would normally open the box at,  it has a sticker with a QR CODE, this is nothing for us however there is a silver HOLOGRAPHIC type part on the sticker with an Alpha-Numeric code which once again means nothing to us but acts as another indication of genuine packaging.

Now don't be alarmed if you have all of this showing true but you find it says on the sensor or the packaging, MADE IN MEXICO,

Yes, believe it or not, BOSCH has a manufacturing factory in MEXICO.

My contact at Bosch Australia has been there and toured the facility.

So remember the part can be made in Germany or Mexico.

Now to the sensor itself.

Anyone can copy a part number and logo with the required details and brand or mark the product with the correct equipment.

However, the genuine Bosch part number and details that are on the metal casing of the sensor should be laser etched and feel very smooth to the touch, copies/fakes normally have their details stamped onto the metal housing, they have like a very neat pin-punched appearance to the numbers and letters and are very easy to feel with your fingertips and even more so if you use your fingernail.

So using the trusty Bosch LSU 4.9 Motorsport sensor that we all strive to use and hope to get the real deal, the following should ring true.

Firstly there is a prefix number which is LS17025 then directly below the prefix number is the main part number of 0 258 017 025.

Then the BAR CODE NUMBER should be 3 165 143 521519  this should mean it is a Bosch LSU 4.9 with a 1-meter lead connected to the sensor itself, with its 6-pin connector block attached with 5 wires.

Then the other giveaway to a fake is the price.

A lot of online stores and suppliers are selling these sensors cheaper than people in the trade can even get them for so that's saying something.

One other thing also, is if you are running a LINK FURY or THUNDER and turn the WIDEBAND FUNCTION to ON WHEN STALLED for cold start tuning, remember to turn it back off as having it on and running extremely hot without the engine running tends to damage them also.

If running an after-market wideband meter kit, it would pay to question the manufacturer if they have allowed for any sensor heater control strategies for cold start or even warm restart as far as when the sensor uses the heater circuit or if it even has one.

A couple of other points, obvious but I will mention, never drop the sensor at all, especially hot.

Be careful not to crush the sensor body on removal or reinstallation especially if using the open end of a spanner.

I hope this may be of some use to somebody.

Regards

Dave.

 

 

Edited Monday at 07:28 AM by Dave Kriedeman
ADDED IMAGES.