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Audi 7A 60-2, Single Window Hall Triggering Problems


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I have recently installed a G4+Thunder into an Audi 5cyl 20Valve. I'm using a 60-2 crank trigger, which is a hall effect, and the single window cam hall sensor that's in the distributor. I have 5 individual coils in direct spark, and injectors set to full sequential. 

When I did the trigger calibration with the settings, the timing light flashed exactly at 0 TDC, so I thought it would be spot on. But I am unable to go further. I think the crank trigger hall is having some issues:


The signal seems inconsistent to me. Here are the settings for both triggers:



When cranking now, with timing light enabled I get a spark, but not every time I should. In the runtime values section for triggers, Trig1 Signal is constantly "yes" while cranking. Trig2 is signal "Yes" for most of the time and then it flashes to "no". ECCS Sync stays no (not sure if it's supposed to). And Engine RPM flashes up to 2200 or so from time to time but no consistent reading. It builds of Trig1 Error counters very quickly as well. The screenshot here is after maybe 5 seconds of cranking.


I had suspected Trigger 2 Sync Mode settings, but no matter what I choose it doesn't do anything better. It actually gets worse. Even with "no Sync" I don't get a solid RPM reading, so I'm guessing it's back to trigger 1. 
Speaking of, it's the 60-2 hall sensor setup from a European diesel VW. 



Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. 

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Yeah the problem is that trigger 1 is intermittently not seeing all "teeth".  I have no experience with that particular trigger system, but I had problems with a similar-looking one on a Peugeot that was very sensitive to the pull-up resistor.  I cant remember if the Peugeot one needed a stronger or weaker pull-up though.

It's hard to see how that wheel connects to the crankshaft in that picture, is there any chance it is misaligned or not running true?


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That's what I was afraid of.

What is the pullup resistor resistance when switched to on? I read somewhere 4.7k ohms and that's not variable so I'd have to hardwire in some resistors to change the value. When turning pull-up off, there Trig1Signal stays at "no".

So the wheel sits behind the flywheel on the crank flange. It's pressed on, part of the crank seal. The sensor sits as marked.





Thank you!

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  • 3 months later...

Just a follow up .. I have no idea why the signal was so messy and therefore unusable. Instead, I have mounted a 36-1 wheel and Ford VR sensor on the crank pulley and the car fired up pretty much immediately.

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