E36 Accel Enrichment

[Stranger24]

Team,

 

I have set my accel enrichment as 0.5 in 100ms however never get any accell enrichment.

Also I have an issue where can is extremly lean when off throttle and reving down from 3-4k . It goes to afr of 19 around 2k and car switches off . I think this is due to fuel trim on iat and checking it.

 

attached the log in case anyone can give me any insight.

 

[Vaughan]

not seeing a log attached, your tune file would also be useful for the accel issue

[Stranger24]

 

Log file:

https://easyupload.io/ybs8on

 

Map file:

https://easyupload.io/2gqmsm

won't let me upload due to max available size I have available. see link above please

[Adamw]

Accel cold correction is a multiplier, so zero means you will get no accel fuel.  The settings below from our E36 base map would be a better starting point, just change the deadband to 1.2% since you have a bit of noise on the TPS. 

 

Im not sure if there is actually a fuel problem, your lambda calibration looks a bit odd that it is not linear and your sensor or controller fails several times in the log.  

However, the main reason for the engine stall is related to idle control.  The ecu is closing the idle valve when you are coasting so the engine has not enough air to run when you clutch in.  This is due to several reasons:

1. RPM lockout above target is too large, typical would be 4-500RPM. 
2. TPS lockout is too high, set to 0.5%. 
3. Speed lockout is set to driven wheel but you only have driving wheel speed assigned.  Also driving wheel speed is not working so this will need to be fixed for good closed loop idle. 
4. PWM frequency is odd at 60Hz - usually 200Hz for the bosch valves.  Im not sure if this would cause any issue but it likely wont control as well. 
5. Integral gain is probably too high, it maybe ok, but normal is around 0.5.  
6. Min clamp needs to be set just below normal warmed up idle position.  

 

[Stranger24]

Thanks Asam appreciate it

Re accel, it did not work at all. Was it due to my sens or accel table you reckon? I even set all values to 20 to see if I see a change and nothing, no accell fuel

regarding wideband, it is prosport and uses Busch sensor,  calib table is in link below

i adjusted the table value by multiplying the table from link above to 0.93 which I think is due to ground offset. By multiplying the table valus, my gauge value reads the same as ecu else ecu was reading higher by 0.5ish

 

 

I didn’t follow re controller failing or wideband, it failed because car turned off and it needs few sec everytime you cycle engine and once it is cycled , it reads voltage of 5 ( error) before it send the right signal

 

regarding idle min clamp, would this he 30ish then as on 30 my idle works just fine? I set it to then and I guess that is no good as it allows the rev to drop below idle point?

[Adamw]

6 hours ago, Stranger24 said:

Re accel, it did not work at all. Was it due to my sens or accel table you reckon? I even set all values to 20 to see if I see a change and nothing, no accell fuel

Attach a log and tune.

 

6 hours ago, Stranger24 said:

regarding wideband, it is prosport and uses Busch sensor,  calib table is in link below

This is the cal table you have set up in graphical view, a linear output device should give a straight line.

6 hours ago, Stranger24 said:

regarding idle min clamp, would this he 30ish then as on 30 my idle works just fine? I set it to then and I guess that is no good as it allows the rev to drop below idle point?

Your last log shows about 40% idle position is required for normal warm idle, try the min clamp around 35%ish.

[Stranger24]

many thanks, really appreciate it

 

I think I have a heat soak when idling as IAT is the one in intake manifold. Looking around and researching , I understand I should use Charge Temprature Approximation Table to address IAT using ECT however can't find that table. What table would one use to ignore high IAT values at idle and place weight on ECT ?

 

Also re my driven vs driving wheel speed, I understand driven wheel is ones connected to drivetrain i.e diff and driving is the wheel speed sensors such as abs . 

 

I only have read wheel linked to GP Speed 1 however ecu can't seem to see the data and capture's speed of 0 . 

 

I looked at the help section and used the example below however still no speed source and can confirm my dash does show speed. Is the DI wired into GP Speed 1 using factory loom or need to do any wiring ?

 

According to Manual it is on pin 42

https://linkecu.com/documentation/E36X.pdf

 

"Example Four

Rear wheel drive vehicle with one vehicle speed into from the transmission or dashboard via a Digital Input

1. Under Digital Inputs > GP input Setup a GP Speed:

 Label it "Transmission".

 Source - Select a DI

 Calibrate as above

2. Setup Speed sources:

 Driving Wheel Speed Source - GP Speed 1

 Driven Wheel Speed Source - OFF (No % Slip calculation available)

"

[Adamw]

I believe in these cars the diff sensor is connected to the instrument cluster, then the instrument cluster sends a separate speed signal out to the ecu, cruise module, and various others.   If your speedo is working then that suggests the sensor is ok so the issue must be after the cluster.  

Im not sure what the minimum frequency is for the cluster output so this test may not work - but can you try measuring voltage on ECU pin 42 with a rear wheel turning slowly.  It should constantly step between 2 different voltages - say for example 0V and 5V.  Try it with the pull-up on and off.  

BTW, I deleted your post in the other E36 speed sensor thread so that troubleshooting your car is kept in context with your other info above. 

[curly]

12 hours ago, Stranger24 said:

Also re my driven vs driving wheel speed, I understand driven wheel is ones connected to drivetrain i.e diff and driving is the wheel speed sensors such as abs .

Driving wheels are powered wheels, so rear wheels and/or your diff on most BMWs. Driven are the ones that are just along for the ride. 

RWD: 

Driving-rears

Driven-fronts

FWD:

Driving-fronts

Driven-rears

Your diff sensor is a bit of a outlier, it's not a common sensor location, typically they're at the trans output or wheel speed sensors, but its still just a driving source you can select as RR or RL. 

[Stranger24]

Thanks Guys, do any thoughts re charge air temp table/ heat soak ?

 

re di1 status, it is inactive whether I try rising/ falling with or without pull up.

 

the calibration was 476 so tried all sortes with no luck. if it states in active , I guess that means it is not receiving it from cluster, right?

[Adamw]

What makes you believe there is a heat soak issue?  Typically heat soak would only be apparent as a difficult hot start or a lean idle for a short time immediately after a hot restart - and only after it had been shut off and sitting still for 15 minutes or so.  So it is not a situation that would usually occur too often.

 If DI1 remains as inactive then the signal is not crossing the thresholds.  You will need to check with a scope or multimeter.   

[Stranger24]

Thanks Adam, I have two issues, hard start after it sits after engine was warm and also in traffic the afr shows extremely lean values such as 18 or 19 . I checked iat and value goes up and as i drive it does come down significantly 

 

hence I am looking for air charge temp table and found it after turning the feature on:)